oliver Syrah Shines in the South Okanagan at Road 13 Kim Foreman-Rhindress
Veteran winemaker Barclay Robinson had just accepted the job and signed the papers at Road 13 one week before the COVID-19 lockdown occurred. While the new safety protocols didn’t impact production, they have affected the way wine is sold, paving the way for more intimate tasting experiences as well as more direct-to-consumer purchasing avenues.
“2018 was an interesting growing year and has created a more elegant complexity than in previous years. It got off to a warm start, it was a dry year and there were fires in the Pacific Northwest,” Robinson said. “The fires didn’t affect the flavour, but they did block out the sun a fair bit, which yielded a beautiful acidity without as much alcohol.”
Darcy Nybo
that the grapes were harvested when air temperatures were below the magical -8°C. There also cannot be any artificial cooling to get the grapes to yield their sweet, frozen goodness. Winemakers cannot add sweetener of any kind to the wine either. There are only one or two dozen wineries in BC that are able to create this delicious dessert wine.
When temperatures drop below -8°C, most growers know that whatever is left on the tree, vine or garden is no longer useful—except for grapes. When the temperature hits that magical number, it’s all hands into the vineyard for grape picking. BC is well known around the world for its delicious and unique icewines. And because it relies on Mother Nature to cooperate, some years are better than others.
Road 13 is in the process of achieving organic certification and will be fully certified by the end of 2021. “It’s a formality,” Robinson said. “They have been farming organically here for years.” Already known for big, bold reds, Robinson is excited to talk about Road 13’s Syrah, which is exceptionally well suited to the South Okanagan soil and climate. “The Black Sage block on the east side grows southwest into the sun which yields jammy dark fruit flavours,” he explained, “while the evening shade from the mountain provides savoury and spicy notes.” With seven Syrah blocks, the region is well represented.
Icewines of BC
So Many Ways to Enjoy
How It All Began
Long ago, in the 18th century, a German winemaker didn’t get his grapes harvested in time. The temperatures plummeted and the grapes froze on the vine. After all his hard work he couldn’t bear to leave them there, so he harvested them and tried to make wine out of them. Much to his delight, and the delight of everyone who tasted his Eiswein, it was delicious! When asked about 2020, Robinson was excited. “The tonnage is lighter by 15 per cent, but the quality is outstanding. The growing season was warm and dry with a tricky mid-summer heatwave. But the wines are promising to be incredible! “The block tells you what it wants to be,” he mused. “Winemaking is an artistic interpretation of science and nature that gives you a product that is more than the sum of its parts.”
20th Century Icewine
In the 1960s, other wine regions started making their own icewines. Then, in 1974, the Okanagan’s Hainle Vineyards Estate Winery made Canada’s first icewine. It was a hit and the rest, as they say, is history.
VQA Certified
The Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) has very strict rules when it comes to creating icewine. There must be documentation
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Should your tastes lean towards salty, try your icewine with a delicious black olive tapenade or an antipasto. Smoked salmon and duck confit also pair well. For a cool experience, try your icewine with a chilled watermelon soup. Whether you like your icewine on its own or paired with savoury, salty or spicy foods, you are sure to enjoy it.
ON TH E COVER
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You may recognize our front cover for this special digital edition. It’s the patio at Summerhill Pyramid Winery.
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Pairing icewines is fairly simple. Strong cheese, nuts and fruits pair wonderfully with this sweet treat. Go for a cheese that is naturally savoury and a little salty—try a nice blue cheese or a hard cheese. The stronger the flavour, the better it goes with icewine.
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Icewine is best when chilled, usually to 5°C. One of my favourite ways to enjoy icewine is in a two-ounce dark chocolate shot glass. Many wineries sell them in their shops, and you can also buy them at specialty stores and online. This is a sipping wine, much like a port or sherry, so a two-ounce pour is more than enough.
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The management and staff at Summerhill have been working hard to ensure you can enjoy their patio, their delicious food and their wines all year round. Safety protocols are all in place and you can come and relax knowing you will be well taken care of.
The two enjoying the patio on the front cover of this issue are Barbara Sculthorp and Daniel Rae.
Our photographer, Faith Peters, had a great time getting the right shot for this edition. She had this to say about working with the staff at Summerhill Pyramid Winery: “Barbara and Daniel told me about how they came to work here, how Summerhill has become like a home to them and how the staff are like family. They said everyone at Summerhill looks out for one another and truly cares about doing their jobs well. They also both spoke very highly of CEO, Ezra Cipes, and the passion he has for the success and growth of Summerhill. Most importantly, they said that since COVID-19, it has been comforting to work at a place that’s more than a job. It’s a second home, a refuge for them both.”
14
December 2020
