upper STREET

Fall in love with the Americaninspired comfort street bistro serving up elevated classics and inimitable vibes

By bazaar Staff

When we first visited Almakan United Group’s new home base in Bneid El Gar, situated above the city’s most talked about dining hotspot upper STREET, we felt a familiar buzz we had missed when the group had closed shop outside the footsteps of Mubarakiya a couple of years ago. Today Almakan United Group boasts an experimental kitchen, extremely busy offices filled with creatives, and large-scale local and regional culinary operations--all of which are run by the same team which gave us what was Kuwait’s earliest food turned creative space. Downstairs at upper STREET, however, the team truly felt that its establishment was a long time coming, a catalyst to craft the space for something entirely different and the fruit of nearly ten years of laboring with love to constantly elevate Kuwait’s dining landscape for the better.

We often saw the talented Chef Faisal Al Nashmi behind the bar, rushing around the hurried kitchens at Street, giving dishes a final nod at Table Otto, to perfecting that unforgettable Tiramisu at San Ristorante. But today stands a different Faisal, as Culinary Director and Managing Partner at Almakan United Food Group, he wears many hats, from dreaming up new dishes for existing concepts, working an office job, to finalizing tweaks on upcoming new launches (we see you, Matchbox) but he will take pause to reflect on what upper STREET means for him and partners Aysha Al Nafisi, Bader Alhasan and Dalal Alhasan.

“upper STREET is our personal take on introducing a newer dining experience that has been in development for 10 years, filled with learning and a passion to create. It is the brainchild of everything that we’ve done, but also a new start to a new chapter of dining.” Faisal cites the menu at upper STREET as extremely specific, with a curated experience for the diner which is equally specific, and it’s all in the details. From how each and every dish is plated, to the interiors, the music, and the set-up of the space. Upper Steet is a transformative destination.

Arrive for the 8 pm dinner service, with a reservation in place, of course, and get ready for a high-energy experience created by the invigorating interiors. The adorable floor sign that reads “Welcome, Old Friends” will charm STREET fans, whetting their appetites for the culinary magic soon to unfold. Faisal adds, “What diners will see on our dishes at upper STREET is a culmination of what they love, yet presented in a different way. Perhaps a new flavor profile, a more balanced combination of textures, or a new visual presentation. When we say we are presenting Bistro classics, people are expecting to see something very intriguing to them, visually plated to them in a way that they haven’t seen before from STREET.”

Diners are first greeted by unpolished high concrete ceilings that meet the most elegant, Cartier-red marble floors outlining classic black and white chequered floors, both offset by the kitsch open-face blush marble retro diner tables. upper STREET presents an upscale diner experience, so if you didn’t get the message by the classic neon-lit sign outside, or the iron-framed menu on display by the commanding red metal doors, then the vintage furniture will definitely transport you to midcentury New York. Mini red and green lamps adorn each table for ambient lighting, and instead of the usual long community tables we see at STREET, we find long corner couches, all retrofitted of course. We fell in love with the open kitchen design, offering diners an honest look at the fast-paced service that takes place every night. The highlight for us? The custom-made Josper, home to firing up so many of the restaurant’s main dishes, is clad in upper STREET’s vibrant colors. We also appreciated the bottle display which lines the entire wall of the open-plan kitchen. Created in collaboration with multidisciplinary architect Dalia Ali, recycled bottles were painted in STREET’s artful style and illustrations, yet another visual element to please the eye.

There’s even an entirely separate Pastry area that teases diners with a window, allowing them to peek in to see what delectable delights are being prepped for the evening’s service.

Perhaps what is most telling of our experience at upper STREET was the art. People come to the folks at Almakan United Group for a vibe and it always leaves a lasting impression. And while we will dive deep into the dining specials at upper STREET in a little while, the art deserves its own exploration.

All of the art on display in the restaurant has been curated, and created with intention. We know Almakan’s love for art, and the custom-made tapestry carpet designed by renowned Dutch Illustrator Jacco Bunt will instantly captivate diners. Created using playful colors, with visual symbols telling the story of STREET’s move to its new prominent seaside home, salt, and pepper shakers, and the prowess of the dominant tiger solidifies Almakan’s perseverance and desire to inhabit a lasting space in people’s culinary experiences in Kuwait. Glance towards the other side of the restaurant, and let your eyes gaze over the vintage Hermes scarves artfully framed, and even an art piece from the owners’ personal collections brought in their earlier days is proudly on display, telling of humbler beginnings, but even bigger dreams. Even the bathrooms deserve a special mention here, with fun wallpaper art greeting customers in the stalls, and the original vintage sinks (long discontinued in the UK but fully operational at upper STREET’s bathrooms) bring on the kitsch feel yet again.

So we came for the art but stayed for the food. That’s how this story went. And here’s the thing, upper STREET’s menu is a small one, but for the best reason. Pared down, honest but extremely elevated. If it’s a burger you want, then you get the best, aged beef, and aged cheddar all beautifully presented in a bountiful Brioche Bun. The restaurant pays homage to classics, unexpectedly. From the nibbles, playfully dubbed “TE-NIG-NIGS” section, for instance, you will see the fanciest Truffled Ribs and Hummus with a seriously tangy pomegranate demi glaze served along with what we can only call is balady bread.

Salads here might look simple on paper, but the flavor combinations are anything but. Those seeking the classic pairing of a Thai Grilled Chicken Salad will be pleased, and Burrata lovers will be amazed by the spectacle that will arrive on their plates. We especially appreciated the intricate detail in this dish, starting with the artful charcoal netting encasing the burrata, to the grilled beets, avocado, zest of the blood orange, toasted pumpkin seeds, and fresh tomato, all brought together with a beautiful balsamic caramel.

All of this prepared our palates for the one dish from the “Share” section we refused to leave our table until dessert arrived- the Tuna Tartare. Presented in a custommade sardine can with Almakan’s signature artistic touch, the tartare sat on a bed of smoked ice. The perfectly diced raw Tuna sat underneath another bed of house-made yuzu and miso caviar pearls and was topped with fresh Jalapeno rings, with a side of homemade crackers. The tartare speaks miles of the level of thought which goes into perfectly balancing the flavors of each dish at upper STREET while cleverly weaving in the element of surprise in presentation.

Diners can continue to feast from shareable plates or dive deep into Buns and Mains as we did. Choosing the dish which is always at the heart of any diner experience, we opted for the Classic Cheese Burger. You would think that a ‘simple’ burger would actually taste simple but that is never the case here. From the first bite, the mediumcooked patty and the vegetables in the Brioche bun all blended together in perfect harmony to create the perfect burger. On the side, two sliders of the Fried Chicken Bao did not disappoint either where the crispiness of the Southern Fried Chicken and the softness of the Bao ensured the tastiest chicken bao you could possibly ask for, the Bao also a classic nod to STREET’s Asian street food roots. Aside from the Classic Cheese Burger which ticked all the boxes, we also loved the Spanish Josper Lobster. Honoring the delicate flesh of this treat, the lobster carried a lovely char, and the crusty rice was super flavorful and subtle, all coming together beautifully with the lemon puree. You can also opt for classics like Fried Veal Parmigiana, or diner classics like Charcoal Steak and Tuscan Chicken and Spaghetti.

Dessert is always an affair to remember with Street Food Group, and at upper STREET, one would be remiss to not leave room for it! Diners will find classics like Pain Perdu, but we cannot recommend the Honey Cream Caramel enough! With its soft, light as air, cheese caramel flan base, lotus crust, burnt bread mousse to offset the sweetness of the lotus crust and homemade honeycomb, you will fall in love with the perfectly tempered chocolate bee as this dessert arrives at your table.

Creating a fine casual dining experience is no easy feat in Kuwait, as the challenge lies in balancing realness with fanciness. Yet at upper STREET, you’re served straight-up kitsch with a side of class. We will definitely be coming here again, as we’ve found ourselves a new place to hang out, feast and create new memories in K-town.

We recommend that you reserve your experience online. For more details, head to @streetfoodgroup on Instagram. Images courtesy of Street Food Group.