Bali & Beyonb Magazine October 2016 by Bali & Beyond Magazine

O C T O B E R 2 016 VOLUME 18 NO. 197

SENSES AWAKEN

A SPECIALLY CRAFTED RITUAL AT RAMA SITA SPA

THE RISE OF

HOPE

MUNTI GUNUNG VILLAGE STRIVES FOR A BRIGHTER FUTURE

BACK TO

BALI

GIVE BACK WHAT WE HAVE TAKEN FROM THE ISLAND www.baliandbeyond.co.id

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

TEAMTALK

BACK TO BALI ‘Om Swastiastu...’

Positivity, serenity and sanity – Bali has given so much to the people who come to the island. Some believe Bali heals their broken souls and helps them get back on the right track, while others feel the island gives them courage to break walls and experience new adventure. Whatever it is that one is searching for in life, Bali has the answers. Thus, Bali

COVER Photo by Agung Parameswara

seems to always “give”, while the visitors only “take”. It’s only a couple of months until 2016 ends, and we think it is time to give something back to the island before the year changes. One of the ways is by supporting the people of Munti Gunung Village who are leaving a beggar life behind and embracing a better future through the tourism industry. Find out how the village has progressed over the years in ‘CRAFT & CULTURE.’ Staying at Rumah Luwih in Gianyar will not only pamper you with an ultimate indulgence, but also gives you the chance to get closer to the locals through their localoriented activities such as a visit to a salt farm and a sea turtle sanctuary – ﬂip through our ‘REST & RELAXATION’ for details. Meanwhile, our ‘PROFILE & PORTRAIT’ reveals how Kyle Parsons, the man behind Indosole, is contributing to help improve the environment by turning used tires into soles for shoes. We also share our visit to the Bali Asli restaurant in ‘DINE & DELIGHTS’ and reveal a search for good second-hand books in ‘LITTLE LOVES.’ All these stories are especially compiled with the hope to remind us all to give back what we have taken from the island.

‘Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om…’ The Team

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BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

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BALI & BEYOND General Manager GOESTAMAR ARDIBRATA goestamar@baliandbeyond.co.id Managing Editor RISTY NURRAISA risty@baliandbeyond.co.id Editor SUHARTINA SINDUKUSUMO tina@baliandbeyond.co.id Editorial Advisors A.A. GEDE RAI, JOHN M. DANIELS Graphic Advisor WENIAR PRAMESTI Senior Graphic Designer I PUTU PARTAJAYA putu@baliandbeyond.co.id Web & Graphic Designer MELIYANA SANTOSO meli@baliandbeyond.co.id Advertising & MarComm. Manager D. ARIEF SENOAJI arief@baliandbeyond.co.id Senior Advertising Sales Executive MEE NOVITA mee@baliandbeyond.co.id Advertising Sales Executive PUTU RAI SUTRISMA rai@baliandbeyond.co.id F&A Supervisor A.A. KETUT SUKERTI agung@baliandbeyond.co.id Accounting Staff KADEK YULI MARISNA yuli@baliandbeyond.co.id GA & Personnel Adm I GEDE ADARA adara@baliandbeyond.co.id Distribution NYOMAN TRI HARIAN SAPUTRA nyoman@baliandbeyond.co.id

Contributors AIMERY JOËSSEL, ANGGARA MAHENDRA, DONNY SYOFYAN, EDNA TARIGAN, EVE TEDJA Jakarta Marketing Services/Subscription Phone : 021 - 2765 1717 / 1718 Ext. 7344 Fax : 021 - 2765 1716 Publisher PT. BUMI DIAN KUSUMA Commissioner SOETIKNO SOEDARJO Director MAULANA INDRAGUNA SUTOWO Division Head MRA Printed Media INDRIATI WIRJANTO

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Bali & Beyond Magazine is published monthly by PT. Bumi Dian Kusuma under the direction of MRA Media, Jakarta. Although every care is taken, neither the publishers nor any of their designees assume responsibility for the opinions and information expressed by editorial contributors. All material in this publication is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced without written permission of the publisher or author. All trademark and rights to Bali & Beyond are reserved by PT Bumi Dian Kusuma. Editorial materials may be submitted for consideration to the editorial ofﬁce. Bali & Beyond is not responsible for the return of unsolicited material. © 2006 Bali & Beyond ISSN 0216-4590

A member of

Endorsed by

CONTRIBUTORS

BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222 387, 226 313 Fax: (0361) 226 313

www. skal.org skalbali@dps.centrin.net.id

AIMERY JOËSSEL

ANGGARA MAHENDRA

has always been deeply attracted to Southeast Asia. He has become a regular visitor to Indonesia since his ﬁrst visit in 1988 until he ﬁnally decided to reside in the country. He fell in love with Java, Kalimantan and Bali. www. aimeryjoesselphotography. wordpress.com

is a visual storyteller who sees visual as priceless archives. Since 2012, he has been focusing on the massive changes in Bali. Find his stories at www. anggaramahendra.com

EDNA TARIGAN

EVE TEDJA

is a Jakarta-based travel writer. She began her professional carrier as a journalist, living in Bali for a year then moving back to Jakarta to chase another dream.

is a Balinese born interior designer and freelance writer who loves to eat, read and travel. Lately, she ﬁnds her passion in permaculture and is constantly showing off her garden in her Instagram account @kspejeng. 12

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

DONNY SYOFYAN is a lecturer at the Faculty of Humanities at Andalas University. Despite majoring in English literature, his interests are wide and varied. His articles have been published at various English newspapers and magazines in Indonesia and abroad.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

contents 10.16 O C T O B E R 2016 Volume 18 No. 197

JOURNEY TOWARDS HOPE

PHOTOS & FUN FACTS

A brighter future for Munti Gunung Village

SIGHTS&SOUNDS

Snapshots and quotes picked up throughout August and September

VINTAGE SPLENDOR

A HOLIDAY MANSION

LIFESTYLE&LEISURE Visiting StrangebutCool, a Museum of Vintage Bags

DINE&DELIGHTS

DINE IN UPPER EAST

REST&RELAXATION

Ultimate indulgence at Rumah Luwih

FOTOFOLIO

BALI IN MY EYES A photo collection by Aimery Joëssel

Authentic Balinese food at Bali Asli

PROFILE&PORTRAIT

+ 18 PRIMEPROMOTION

SOLES FOR LIFE

Hot deals and promotions of the month that shouldn’t be missed

Interview with the man behind Indosole

20 NEW&NEWS

INVITE&INDULGE

This month’s select news updates from the island’s tourism industry and what’s new around the island

SENSES AWAKEN

A specially crafted ritual at Rama Sita Spa

6 8 BEYONDUPDATES News updates from the tourism industry and what’s new beyond Bali

70 COMMUNITYCALENDAR Schedules, calendar highlights and various happenings of interest, from art exhibitions to special events

72 SEE&SEEN Snapshots of events and happenings within the preceding month

74 BALIMAPS Map of Bali showing speciﬁc tourism areas and places of interest, as well as a distance scale between the island’s main destinations

30 14

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

78 INFOINDEX Useful directory of companies and island-based businesses

FIRST COLUMN PHOTO BY RANGGA RISTO, SECOND COLUMN PHOTO BY AIMERY JOËSSEL, THIRD COLUMN PHOTO COURTESY OF THE ST. REGIS BALI RESORT

CRAFT&CULTURE

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

THE SUN... THE SAND... THE SURF... THE CULTURE OF PARADISE AND OVER 18,000 SURROUNDING ISLANDS

contents 10.16 O C T O B E R 2016 Volume 18 No. 197

60 54

LITTLELOVES

BEYONDBALI

ACTION&ATTRACTION DARE TO ESCAPE

Play secret agent at Totem Room Escape Bali

THE GEMS OF SAWAHLUNTO

Exploring historical sites in Sawahlunto

CAPITALCORNER

WINDOWS TO THE WORLD Help educate underprivileged children with Jendela Jakarta 16

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

TOP AND BOTTOM LEFT PHOTOS BY DONNY SYOFYAN, BOTTOM RIGHT PHOTO BY EVE TEDJA

FINDING GOOD READS

Where to find second-hand books in Bali

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

PRIMEPROMOTION

BATH AND BREAKFAST

FIVE CHEFS AND A MOON It’s time to have a romantic dinner under the moon as The St. Regis Bali Resort and The Laguna, a Luxury Resort & Spa, Nusa Dua presents “An Extraordinary Moonlight Dinner”, an annual charity event to support UNICEF. Located at the oceanfront Cloud Nine Terrace at The St. Regis Bali on October 15, the charity dinner will indulge guests with aperitifs and canapes around 6 p.m. and a sixcourse wine pairing dinner at 7 p.m., courtesy of ﬁve notable chefs: celebrity chef Farah Quinn, Mandif Warokka from Teatro Gastroteque, Kevin Cherkas from Cuca Bali, Agung Ardiawan from The St. Regis Bali Resort and Made Putra from The Laguna, a Luxury Resort & Spa. A live auction with prizes from the resort and other international and local venues will make the dinner even merrier. Grace Nathalie, the resident’s pianist and vocalist, will also perform to give a touch of soulful jazzy tunes. This dinner is available at Rp. 2,600,000 nett/person and reservations are essential. The St. Regis Bali Resort BTDC Lot S6, Nusa Dua, (0361) 847-8111 www.stregisbali.com

In-room breakfast will never be the same once you experience “Breakfast in the Tub” at The Stones Hotel – Legian, Bali – A Marriott Autograph Collection. This newly launched out-of-the-box breakfast will serve you smoked salmon, your style of eggs, sourdough bread, beef bacon, goat cheese, croissant, English mufﬁn, and a glass of sparkling wine on a specially designed tray. And the best part is the fact that you get to enjoy all these delicious foods in the tub on the balcony with the view of the hotel’s swimming pool. “Breakfast in the Tub” is available for Rp. 850,000++/person. The Stones Hotel – Legian, Bali – A Marriott Autograph Collection Jalan Raya Pantai Kuta, Legian (0361) 300-5888 www.marriott.com

Working out would be a lot more fun if you can get a reward for all your hard work, wouldn’t it? If you agree, you need to head to Fit Club Bali! To motivate their members to be more health-conscious, Fit Club Bali presents “Fit Club BaliChallenge for a Change” where for every one kilogram of weight loss and one percent of body fat loss you will get Rp. 100,000 cash! Of course, with the help of Fit Club’s dedicated and professional world-class trainers, this challenge is not that impossible – who knows, you may not end up paying a cent of your membership fee? This program will last until October 2016, but Fit Club will keep on surprising you with their other exciting monthly ﬁtness programs. Fit Club Bali Jalan Teuku Umar Barat No. 335 Blok B-C, Denpasar (0361) 846-6711 www.ﬁtclubbali.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

ALL OTHERS COURTESY PHOTOS

CHALLENGE YOURSELF

PINK OCTOBER In conjunction with Breast Cancer Awareness month, The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas – Nusa Dua presents “Mulia Loves Pink,” where the hotel will be decorated in pink during the whole month of October. The hotel is also offering pinkish dining experiences such as “Pink Afternoon Tea,” which showcases a range of Indonesian and Western light bites, cakes, mocktails and juices. “Pink Sunday Brunch” is also on offer, and guests wearing outfits that match with the theme will get a special welcome drink. Mulia Deli is making special pink-themed sweets, while Mulia Spa Bali has created a Pampering in Pink treatment. A special Pink October Gift Card is also available, and in-house guests will get a complimentary 30-minute workout session with personal trainer if they come to the fitness center in a pink outfit. The Mulia, Mulia Resort & Villas – Nusa Dua Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, Kawasan Sawangan, Nusa Dua, (0361) 301-7777 www.themulia.com

RUN WITH A VIEW Anantara Seminyak Bali Resort is inviting us all to join in the 3K “Sunset Run” along Seminyak Beach on October 29! This event also marks the resort’s first ever charity run where all profits will be donated to the Suryani Institute for Mental Illness and Yayasan Senyum Bali. Secure your participation by paying an admission fee of Rp. 150,000 nett/person that includes an exclusive T-shirt, finisher medals, a bottle of mineral water and a shopping voucher worth Rp. 100,000 for sport apparel at Our Daily Dose store. Or book the Island Sunset Run package to stay at the hotel from October 28 to 30 at a special price. There will also be raffle prizes up for grab such as a stay at the PER AQUUM Maldives and Anantara resorts in South Asia Pacific worth US$ 8,000. Anantara Seminyak Bali Resort Jalan Abimanyu (Dhyana Pura), Seminyak (0361) 737-773 www.bali.anantara.com

POP CULTURE U.S.A’s legendary pop icon Grace Jones will ﬂy all the way to the island to showcase a special set at Potato Head Beach Club on October 8. Being a musician, actress and model, Grace Jones has performed at numerous international festivals and this time she will give a more intimate and unique show to her audience at the beach club’s tropical stage. Tickets start from Rp. 1,800,000 nett/person, and packages that include staying at the beach club’s sister Katamama hotel are also available for purchase. Don’t miss this performance! Potato Head Beach Club Jalan Petitenget No. 51B, Seminyak (0361) 473-7979 www.ptthead.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

NEW&NEWS

CULTURAL HUB

HEARTY MEETING Meetings can be uptight, but The Healthy Meeting Package at The Ritz-Carlton, Bali makes sure that your meeting will not only run smoothly but also give a positive impact to the attendees. The package has three options to choose from, “Detox”, “Energy Boost” and “Revitalizing Secret,” each one offering a different kind of warm-up session, wellness break, healthy meal and team-building activity. Each group meeting will start with meditation, yoga or jogging at the resort’s white sand beach, followed by an organic breakfast that will be available until the following four to six hours. The meeting will then start with a wellness break where participants can enjoy a selection of infused water at the Senses Lawn and get a 15-minute massage or guided stretching. A three-course organic lunch with amouse bouche will be served at mid-day and a 15-minute afternoon break will let the group enjoy either fruit infused water, organic juices or healthy tea. This package also includes a team-building breakout session with either yoga, Tai Chi, or group surﬁng.

Aiming to take guests closer to Bali’s art communities, the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay launches their Ganesha Cultural Centre where artists can exhibit artworks or hold workshops of traditional art, music, and crafts. The opening of the Ganesha Cultural Centre is also to support local artists and help connect them to the international audience. Moreover, the space will have a regular workshop where guests can learn woodcarving, ceramic painting, traditional dancing, making offerings for ceremonies, and weaving a Balinese songket. This art gallery was founded in 1995, and these interactive programs at the cultural center are part of the refurbishment project of the gallery. Ganesha Cultural Centre Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay, Jimbaran (0361) 701-010 www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay

The Ritz-Carlton, Bali Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan Lot III, Sawangan, Nusa Dua (0361) 849-8988 www.ritzcarlton.com/Bali

SPICE UP SANUR

ingredients and ﬁne spirits will surprise one’s palate. Care for a cocktail-pairing lunch or dinner? The mixologist will be happy to work together with the chef to prepare it for you. The spacious restaurant consists of both indoor and outdoor areas and is ready to welcome up to 80 guests. Spice by Chris Salans Jalan Danau Tamblingan No. 140, Sanur, (0361) 449-0411 www.spicebali.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

After its debut in Ubud, Spice by Chris Salans has made its way to Sanur. Helmed by celebrity chef Chris Salans, the restaurant marries French cooking technique with Indonesian ingredients, resulting in numerous ﬂavorsome foods like lobster with curry-leaf butter and tempe, and snapper carpaccio with tamarind croutons and rujak. Aside from its delectable dishes, Spice is also popularly known as a gastro-bar where cocktails made of spices, fresh

THE JOGLO RESTAURANT Serving authentic Indonesian cuisine made from locally sourced ingredients, Kayumanis Resto is ready to welcome guests in their joglo restaurant. Located in the heart of Jimbaran, this restaurant can accommodate up to 32 people in their indoor area and tropical garden. The main dishes and beverages are Indonesian classics such as Bebek Panggang Mekudus, Ayam Betutu, Melodi Kemangi and Es Cendol. Indonesian Rijsttafel is also on offer to indulge guests with a rice dish served with up to 40 delicious side dishes in tapas style including egg rolls, sambal matah, satay and fresh ﬁsh. Kayumanis Resto Jalan Yoga Perkanthi, Jimbaran (0361) 705-777 www.kayumanis.com

COOL SCHOOL No more “too cool for school” when you see ISMILE Alam Atelier, the new school in Berawa in Canggu, that just opens its doors for enrollment. Just like the other three schools under the ISMILE Family of Schools in Indonesia, ISMILE Alam Atelier is aiming to support children in being generous contributors to society by joining indoor and outdoor learning activities where students can bond freely with nature. ISMILE Alam Atelier is surrounded by tranquil paddy ﬁelds, and the children are encouraged to play in the river and mud pools and challenge their balance at Hobbit House. A gymnasium is also part of the facilities to keep the students ﬁt. ISMILE Alam Atelier Jalan Pemelisan Agung, Berawa 0813-1771-7700 www.alamatelier.com

RESTFUL LOUNGE Good news for InterContinental Bali Resort guests as the hotel has now opened its Sayana Lounge, a special place for guests who arrive at the hotel early in the morning or need to wait for their late night flight after check out. Located on the ground floor, the Sayana Lounge provides lockers, showers, changing rooms, a plush lounge and an open air terrace, all free to use until you check in at the hotel or leave to catch your flight. The lounge is open 24 hours and is really cozy with cushioned sofas, a refreshment bar, television, a Wi-Fi connection, a tea and coffee maker and complimentary water and biscuits. InterContinental Bali Resort Jalan Uluwatu No. 45, Jimbaran (0361) 701-888 www.bali.intercontinental.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

CRAFT&CULTURE

JOURNEY TOWARDS HOPE A VILLAGE OF BEGGARS IS NOW LOOKING FORWARD TO A BRIGHTER FUTURE THROUGH THE TOURISM INDUSTRY…

t takes three hours to get from

this village interesting. It was how

irony knowing that Bali’s largest lake

South Bali to the Munti Gunung

the village has progressed over

is in sight. Every day they have to

Village in Karangasem in the

the years that enticed me to come

walk to collect clean water from the

eastern part of Bali, but the

and visit.

spring for daily consumption – the

long journey is well worth it.

Despite its exotic scenery, Munti

men usually take ﬁve hours to go

The village is beautifully surrounded

Gunung has long been known as

back and forth, carrying 20 to 30

by hills with the view of Lake Batur,

an impoverished village where the

liters of water, while the women

which can be enjoyed from the top

people work as beggars to make

carry 10 liters.

of the village. However, the view

ends meet. The villagers also have

was not the only reason why I found

little access to clean water, such an

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

“Water is scarce, which causes harvest failures, and eventually

we could do nothing to generate income. In my despair I followed other villagers to work as a beggar in urban areas. At least it gave us money to live!â&#x20AC;? said Sari Awan, one of the villagers in Munti Gunung. In 2008, along with her friends, she worked as a beggar at traditional markets and tourism sites, where she earned Rp. 100,000/day. Legend has it that Munti Gunung was once a prosperous village with a fertile land. But one day an old

Munti Gunung villagers now work as a trekking guide for visitors.

helping hands. With the support of these foundations, the villagers of Munti Gunung are now looking forward to a brighter future. Life as a beggar is put back to history. Many of the villagers are now working as trekking guides, while others are running small-scale businesses with the use of natural resources from around the village. These foundations also help empower the villagers by giving them new skills. Sari Awan is one of the villagers who is now working as a tour guide. She collaborates with Pica, a tour man came to the village to sell water

into an arid land and cursed the

guide from Ubud who takes guests to

in bamboo stems. This water was

descendants to become beggars.

Munti Gunung. Before the sun rises at 5 a.m., Sari sets a walk to the

called Mas Manik Mampeh, which was actually sacred as the water

A NEW LIFE

Alengkong Village in Bangli, which

belonged to Dewi Danu, the Hindu

But everything changed when the

is 13 kilometers through villages and

goddess of water and fertility. The

Future for Children and the Dian

local plantations with the view to

villagers mocked Dewi Danu who

Desa Foundation, non-governmental

treasure for life, from layers of hills

was disguised as a wounded old

organizations that focus on

to the lake and Mount Batur. It is

man with a foul odor. This upset her,

creating social enterprise to support

more remarkable knowing that Sari

so she then transformed the village

undeveloped villages, gave their

goes trekking in her simple dress

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

Future for Children and Dian Desa Foundation help villagers to explore the villages’ natural assets and transform them into valuable products.

then labeled with good branding to add more value. The villagers are also encouraged to plant Rosella. The land of Munti Gunung is quite dry, which is perfect for Rosella. The dried Rosella ﬂowers are amazing accompany newly born babies as

the heavy terrain.

spiritual twins.

But broken sandals don’t seem to

The foundation’s empowerment

for herbal tea. Munti Gunung Village is actually rich with natural assets that can

be a problem to Sari. On the day

program also supports the locals in

support the villagers’ livelihoods

of my visit to Munti Gunung, I could

exploring the village’s natural assets

as long as the people are willing

see how much she enjoyed being a

such as lontar (palm) trees, which

to explore them. Pica said that the

trekking guide. Together with Pica,

can be transformed into handmade

program has already created 200

she took me and my friends for a

handicrafts like lontar baskets.

new jobs for the Munti Gunung

walk that was even more fun as

The handmade products are then

villagers, and is aiming to prevent

they shared stories about the daily

procured by hotels and resorts in

them from leaving the village to work

life of the villagers. They told us the

South Bali. Meanwhile the water

as beggars somewhere else, and

legends and folktales related to their

from tapping the palm ﬂowers can

hopefully can help them improve

rituals, including the Dewa Kembar

be used for tuak (a local liquor) and

their income and economy level. n

(the twin Gods) who are believed to

also palm sugar – these products are

By Anggara Mahendra

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

PHOTOS BY ANGGARA MAHENDRA

and sandals that often break due to

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

LIFESTYLE&LEISURE

VINTAGE SPLENDOR CHANNEL YOUR INNER CLASSY WOMAN BY OBSERVING (AND TRYING OUT) HUNDREDS OF HIGHEND VINTAGE BAGS AT STRANGEBUTCOOL….

colorful room ﬁlled

this museum is not a difﬁcult task –

with bags – that

once you pass Danau Poso Road

is a common view

in Sanur you will spot the eccentric

to see in a mall or

signage of StrangebutCool, and

department store.

believe me, cool is the word that will

However, to see a 1960s “Bonnie

stick in your mind after wandering

Cashin for Coach” bag hanging

around this museum, especially

next to the iconic “Red Lips” bag

knowing that this is Asia’s ﬁrst ever

by Timmy Woods in the heart of

museum of vintage bags.

Sanur is quite unusual, isn’t it? If your curiosity has reached a high

ALL THAT BAGS

level, then you should come join me

“These are all my children,” said

on a tour around StrangebutCool,

Tina Lim, the woman behind

a Museum of Vintage Bags. Finding

StrangebutCool, a Museum of

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

love. She turned an empty room in Sanur into a colorful-walled room to house these bags. However, to my surprise, these valuable bags are not displayed behind glass, which allows guests to see in detail how beautiful they are. Most of the bags have been popular since the 1920s to 1990s, and there are many limited edition pieces too.

and colorful plate. A few vintage

The way she and her team

purses sit on a classic brown table

Vintage Bags, while showing me

display those bags is also beyond

together with vintage furniture, and

around 400 vintage bags by some

unique. For example, she hangs

when Tina caught me gazing at

60 notable designers in the spacious

these purses, she took Evan’s carry-

room she calls a museum. Tina

all purse from the table and opened

Lim is a Singaporean-Peranakan

it, showing me a broken white paper

woman who has been in love with

with handwriting that says, “From

vintage bags since she was 16.

George 1958”. That one must be a

She has been everywhere in the

gem when she found it!

haute couture world and ﬁlled up

I personally think that the

her shoes with amazing fashion and

admission fee of Rp. 150,000/

PR experiences before she decided

person is well worth spending, and

to stand on her own and started a

above all, you will not want to end

vintage bag business. The business

your tour at the museum quickly

has been going strong, and with the

as next to each bag there is an

support of her encouraging friends

interesting story to read. At the end

she has now opened this museum.

of the tour, you can also play with

She takes the museum very

one – or ten – of the vintage bags

seriously and treats her bags like her own children, with so much care and

displayed on a corner as if you many of the bags on wall hangers

own those pretty things. As I was

designed in various kinds of hand

busy playing with the bags, Tina

style. For instance, Dorset Rex’s

told me that there was a fun activity

“Fifth Avenue Signature” bag

waiting for me outside. So how can

hangs on a ‘thumbs up’ hanger and

I resist it? She has ﬁlled this space

Koret’s bangle purse on a ‘up yours’

with astonishment, so I was quite

hanger. She also uses some coat

curious to ﬁnd out what else she has

hangers with peculiar designs for

prepared outside of the museum…

some other bags. Some purses and clutches like Enid Collins’ “The Owl

GET CRAFTY

& Pussycat” classic wood box are

StrangebutCool is aware of

also uniquely displayed on a large

environmental issues as well.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

Clockwise, from the left: Not only vintage, the bags also have unique designs; Tina Lim, the woman behind StrangebutCool; the vintage Evan’s carry-all purse; the kit to make an upcycled carton wallet.

Logically speaking, some bag materials come from nature, so in order to give back, this museum has made a workshop to make upcycled products. Tina herself leads the workshop that uses a used beverage a draft pattern and a little pom-pom

wallet after we broke down the

wallet, you can also bring home an

as a decoration.

beverage carton and wiped it with

artsy little bag as a souvenir – the

a piece of cloth. While carefully

bag is ﬁlled with a used plastic

Tina explained that the paper

tutoring the guests, Tina reminded

bottle for you to grow a plant and a

ﬁber contained in a carton was

everyone not to waste used plastic

brochure with detailed information

useful to create a new product,

bottles or beverage cartons – this

on the vintage bags. So now, what’s

such as a wallet. Tina had made

museum is always open to collecting

not to love? n

a custom design of the wallet, and

these waste products for their crafty

By Suhartina Sindukusumo

at the beginning of the class, she

workshop.

Before the workshop began,

handed out a piece of paper with a

The workshop takes around 30

StrangebutCool, a Museum of

drawing of the wallet’s pattern. All

minutes and I bet you will want to

Vintage Bags

I – and the other guests – needed

make more of these used carton

Jalan Danau Poso No. 111, Sanur

to do was to follow the pattern to

wallets, which are useful to save

(0361) 472-0027

construct our own upcycled carton

coins or name cards. Apart from the

www.strangebutcool.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

PHOTOS BY RANGGA RISTO

carton, big scissors, a knife, a cutter,

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

DINE&DELIGHTS

obvious that this restaurant really honors the locals, from the food they offer to the people they work with and the materials they used for the building. While waiting for the staff to call Penelope, I looked around the restaurant and noticed there was a wastewater garden with water streams where used water from the kitchen ﬂows to a ﬁsh pond and is naturally recycled to water the other garden below the pond. In that second garden they grow plants

DINE IN UPPER EAST

EXPERIENCE A LOCAL CULINARY ADVENTURE IN THE MIDST OF EAST BALI...

and herbs that will become the ingredients they use in the kitchen. It is really interesting to see how Bali Asli strives to be self-sustainable. Eco-friendly restaurant done right, I must say.

Not long after, Penelope greeted hile most

MORNING BOOST

me and mentioned that she would

of my days

The two-hour drive from South Bali

conduct a “Day in Balinese Salon”

start with

to Bali Asli was ﬁlled with beautiful

for me before lunchtime. It was a

an alarm

views to see – lush greenery and

class for guests to learn to craft

sounding

clear blue skies were such a feast

jamu (Balinese herbal drinks) and

from my phone, there was one

to my eyes. As I got closer to the

skin treatment. Penelope took me

ﬁne day last month when I awoke

restaurant I could see Mount Agung

to the workshop where she sat in

even before it went off. It was all

standing proudly afar. The majestic

front of me at a big wooden table

because my thoughts were set on

Mount Agung is also visible from

with coconut shells between us. The

a culinary adventure at Bali Asli

Bali Asli, which becomes one of the

coconut shells were ﬁlled with many

restaurant. Despite its location that

main attractions of the restaurant.

kinds of Indonesian herbs including

is quite secluded in Karangasem’s

I mean, where else can one relish

turmeric, candlenuts, cinnamon,

Gelumpang Village, Bali Asli is

delicious authentic Balinese dishes

cloves, and many more. There was

already popular as one of the must-

with the view of the mountain and

also rice, eggs, bananas, honey,

visit restaurants in Bali. So when the

rice paddies?

virgin coconut oil, carrots, chocolate

restaurant’s Director and Executive

I arrived at 10 a.m., and a waiter

nibs, and others. First she taught

Chef Penelope Williams conﬁrmed

dressed in traditional Balinese attire

me how to make jamu kunyit asam

that I could join a fun activity at the

with an udeng (a Balinese headpiece

using peeled turmeric, white rice,

restaurant, I couldn’t hardly wait

for men) greeted me. He was a local

lime juice, honey, and water. We

to visit Bali Asli and experience its

in Karangasem area, just like the

made it from scratch, which means

magical vibe that is hard to beat.

other staff in the restaurant. It was

we needed to peel and crush the

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

herbs with mortar and pestle. When ﬁnished, it was the most refreshing jamu I have ever tasted. The yellow color showed how good it was as it was made of 100 percent unprocessed ingredients. Then Penelope took me to the alfresco area where we reached a bale that was already ﬁlled with the same herbs that were on the wooden table. I thought we were about to make some other kind of jamu, but she surprised me by saying that we would craft something for skin

The view of lush greenery at Bali Asli.

care. We started by making a skin scrub concoction with chocolate nibs, candlenuts, virgin coconut oil,

when she said, “You can easily

actually a traditional Balinese feast

grated carrot and grated coconut,

create more of these at home now

during ceremonies where people

then continued on to create a face

that you know the ingredients are so

gather and eat with their bare

moisturizer with a ripe banana and

easy to ﬁnd.”

hands. However, in Bali Asli we

honey. We also created a face

were free to use eating utensils if

scrub made of yam bean, ground

A LOCAL FEAST

we wished. The highlight of the

rice ﬂour and egg white. This was

Lunchtime had come, so now it was

megibung at Bali Asli is that the

truly the best pre-lunch activity I have

time to indulge in the restaurant’s

dishes are made using ingredients

ever experienced, as it taught me

authentic Balinese food served

and cooking techniques that are

how to make beauty products using

in megibung style. Megibung is

true to the roots of the Balinese.

pure natural ingredients. Penelope

The menu also changes everyday,

heightened my excitement even more

depending on the availability of the ingredients in the market and the herbs and plants that are currently blooming in the garden. Megibung is usually made for more than four people, but since that day I came together with just one friend of mine, the Bali Asli staff prepared the megibung for two. Before the main course started, I had Jukut Kelor Melikik for my appetizer – a soup made of corn and moringa leaves. According to a

The colorful megibung dish.

myth, moringa leaves can lead black

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

magic practitioners closer to death. Of course, it was not an issue for me as I had never gone near such a thing – and I couldn’t be more thankful as I couldn’t stop relishing those fresh grated young coconuts mixed with moringa leaves and corn until the last sip. The appetizer was followed by the megibung, which looked so deliciously colorful. The rice was

The ingredients for jamu and skin care.

placed in the middle surrounded by Urab Pisuh Biu Bayam (a fresh banana leaf blossom and Balinese

three kinds of sambal and assorted

baby spinach mashed with garlic

crackers were also among the side

and lime), Jukut Cantok (a mix of

dishes of the megibung.

steamed vegetables fresh from the

Of course the megibung wouldn’t

market with a thick peanut sauce),

be complete without some Balinese

and Pesan Telengis (coconut curd

dessert. After we ﬁnished the main

wrapped in a banana leaf with

dishes, a plate ﬁlled with guava

bean sprouts and Balinese spices).

and mango cuts, godoh tapai (fried

The latter sucessfully introduced

fermented-cassava) and sumping

my palate to the real rich ﬂavor of

(steamed jackfruit cake made of

Balinese food where all the spices

rice ﬂour and wrapped in a banana

were blended smoothly with coconut

leaf) was served. Beautiful food,

curd. I’m pretty sure such tasteful

a gorgeous view and the warm anywhere but in Bali Asli. The megibung also came with

Grinding turneric to make jamu.

hospitality from the whole staff – I couldn’t ask for a better culinary

Sate Lembet Be Pasih, which

adventure. n

are grilled ﬁsh skewers. The ﬁsh

By Suhartina Sindukusumo

meat was soft and was even more tempting with its palm leaf

Bali Asli

fragrance, as it was wrapped in

Jalan Raya Gelumpang, Gelumpang

the leaf during the grilling process.

Village, Karangasem

Lastly, Be Siap Mepanggang was

0822-3690-9215

also served in the megibung. This

www.baliasli.com.au

dish consists of grilled chicken marinated in garlic and turmeric, rubbed with coconut oil and served with coconut sauce and sprinkles of sambal matah. Not to forget,

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

Bring a friend to join a cooking class at Bali Asli and get a 50 percent discount for two from November 1, 2016 until March 31, 2017. Reservations are essential.

PHOTOS BY RANGGA RISTO

dishes wouldn’t be easy to ﬁnd

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

hoes have always been his cup of tea. Growing up, his love for footwear grew in line with his willingness to save the environment. Through Indosole, a footwear brand with soles made of used tires, he

Kyle Parsons during TEDx Ubud.

aims to decrease tire waste and help preserve the environment. Bali & Beyond (BB) was lucky enough to spend some time with Kyle Parsons (KP), the man behind this eco-conscious shoe business.

In 2004 I was walking down the street in Seminyak when the thong of my Reef sandal pulled out and I was left barefoot on the sidewalk. So began my quest

BB: Hi Kyle! Can you describe Indosole in two words?

for another pair of sandals, something unique and

KP: Innovative and resourceful.

representative of the natural, tropical feel of Bali. I envisioned a natural weave made out of grass or leaves.

BB: What was the ﬁrst thing that popped in your mind

When I found the sandals I was looking for, I turned

when deciding to create Indosole?

them over and discovered the soles were made of

KP: It was like a scene from the movie “Indiana Jones”. A

motorbike tires. I had never seen anything like it before.

vision of an action-packed Bali adventure with obstacles to

Out of the boutique window, hundreds of motorbikes

overcome, namely the biggest challenges of my life, with

whizzing by and I realized that there is a pollution

a sweet reward and sense of achievement at the end.

problem in Indonesia. If you look closely, there is actually a graceful synergy between rolling tires and walking

BB: Why did you choose footwear as your pilot project?

feet. Both are the symbols of movement, adventure

KP: In many ways, footwear chose me. Growing up

and travel seamlessly. Right then and there, I could see

I was always looking at people’s shoes and noticing

something so clearly that hadn’t been discovered yet, so I

trends. I could name what kind of shoes my classmates

had to create it.

were wearing or describe the most popular styles on the street. I began my career in the shoes industry at New

BB: What is the hardest challenge for Indosole?

Balance, where I was able

KP: Creating the awareness of a pollution problem that

to see how a successful shoe

is worldwide and growing every day. If you don’t know

company operated from the

the problem, you don’t know the part you can play in the

inside. Then life led me to

solution. Right now, Indosole is in a small but growing

learn surﬁng, where I gained

pool of conscious consumer product companies. Together

a deeper appreciation for

we are challenged to raise awareness and effectively

a good pair of ﬂip-ﬂops to

communicate these problems in a way that actually

wear from the beach to town.

motivates sustainable action and creates a positive

I then got a job in a surf shop

change. Pollution is a “we” problem, yet many people

and spent my days sizing up

aren’t concerned with the issue because it seems too far

customers’ feet and choosing

removed from their own lives or too overwhelming to

the right footwear for them.

approach. Offering a functional product that represents

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

PHOTO COURTESY OF INDOSOLE

PROFILE&PORTRAIT

SOLES for Life

the consumer’s contribution in solving the problem is

BB: What’s your personal favorite Indosole product?

amazing because it humanizes the issue and serves as

KP: Our Green Grass Mat sandals are my favorite

a positive reminder of how we can affect change by

because they are the original “Indos” and feel amazing

making small shifts in our habits and behaviors.

under my feet. They are tightly woven with real grass

The evolution of Indosole has been challenging.

grown in the rice ﬁelds of Bali and with a green vegan

Pioneering a whole new category is really difﬁcult but

suede strap. The Grass Mat is the ultimate leisure sandal

insanely rewarding. It’s really important to build an

for a man’s daily adventures.

amazing team. I am so proud of our team’s hard work and dedication for the last seven years.

BB: Lastly, what’s your message for people who want to help improve the environment?

BB: Where do you see Indosole in 10 years?

KP: If you are called by a problem that desperately

KP: I see Indosole as a worldwide brand that provides

needs solving, honor that feeling and go towards the

education through products. I believe we have the

solution. Find your angle to make that difference and

opportunity to become a pillar of conscious consumerism,

don’t worry too much whether it will work out or not. If

an example of what is possible. Not by the size of the

you are completely authentic and aligned in your actions

company or monetary value but for what we stand for in

and beliefs, the universe will support you along the way.

a world that is in a process of reestablishing consumer

Help always comes from unexpected places. n

behavior. Indosole’s mission is to become the most “well-

By Suhartina Sindukusumo

rounded” company it can be and this will happen by following a code of ethics that we truly believe in.

www.indosole.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

INVITE&INDULGE

SENSESAWAKEN GETTING PAMPERED WITH A SPECIALLY CRAFTED RITUAL IN QUIET SANUR…

estled within the

royal families. The spa provides

doesn’t only serve as the spa

Griya Santrian

three double rooms, named The

reception where guests can consult

complex in the

Rama, The Sita and The Laksmana,

which treatment is best for them, but

heart of Sanur,

and each one is decorated with

is also the place to pamper those

the newly opened

gorgeous little touches such as a

who are up for reﬂexology and hand

Rama Sita Spa is truly a serene

Balinese songket for the massage

and foot care.

sanctuary for the restless mind who

bed cover and a Balinese bokor

needs some “me” time. Peaceful is

on the table to store the guest’s

designed with ﬂoor-to-ceiling glass

what one will feel upon entering the

accessories during the treatment.

windows and sliding doors, the

resort’s complex, and that feeling

However, before the spa

Once I entered the bale that is

receptionist greeted me with a warm

lingers on as one walks through

treatment begins, guests will need to

smile before serving me a welcome

the manicured garden to the spa

walk to the Ayodya Bale to check in.

drink and handing me a guest

pavilion.

Walk with me as I discover a beauty

form. Next, one of the therapists

journey like no other at the Rama

approached me and escorted me

Sita Spa…

back to the spa pavilion where

This spa pavilion has a simple yet intricate design that embraces Balinese style. “Rama” and “Sita”

the Rama Sita Awakening Ritual,

are actually the names of the main

SKIN EXFOLIATION

a healing journey to cleanse one’s

characters of Indonesia’s legendary

Unlike the spa pavilion that faces

energy, awaited me in The Sita room.

love story titled “Ramayana”, and

the resort’s garden, the Ayodya Bale

The whole ritual takes two hours

this explains why the Rama Sita Spa

stands on its own facing the beautiful

and 30 minutes, and begins with a

carries the concept of these Balinese

beach and ocean. This building

foot wash that contains lime, lemon

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

and betel, a perfect combination for an antiseptic. The therapist also included some drops of essential oil that was a blend of Ylang Ylang oil with peppermint and patchouli to refresh my feet. The ritual then continued with an exfoliating body scrub using a mixture of rice ﬂour and sandalwood extract that are amazing as an anti-oxidant, anti-aging and anti-inﬂammatory agent. The body scrub also helps to increase blood circulation as well as

Getting ready for a a foot massage before the spa begins.

nourishes and smoothens the skin. As if the body scrub is not enough to brighten and nourish the skin, this

with rose milk bath powder and

that the therapist served me on

ritual also includes a body polish

adorned with rose petals as well as

the wooden stool right next to the

using only plain yoghurt that is so

frangipani and cananga. I could

bathtub.

natural it is edible. However, my

feel my muscles relaxing as I soaked

favorite part of the healing journey

in the warm water for 15 minutes.

RELAXING MASSAGE

was the next step: the milk ﬂower

And this part of the ritual was made

When my 15 minutes in the ﬂower

bath. The bathtub in The Sita room

even more perfect with a cup of

bathtub was up, it was time to

was ﬁlled with warm water infused

lemongrass tea and some cookies

continue the ritual with the Rama Sita

The milk ﬂower bath.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

Reﬂexology with a garden view.

signature massage. I lied down on

right a couple of times. I found this

the massage bed, and the therapist

technique really unique as it was

began this part of the ritual by

painless and totally relaxing. Her

massaging my back.

dancing hands then also gave my

This signature massage was

hands and legs some long strokes

really interesting as not only did it

and gentle stretches.

use sunﬂower oil mixed with natural

ended my wonderful journey at the

a technique that I have never

spa. Sitting outside The Sita room,

experienced before. The therapist

I could feel that my whole body

started the massage by shaking my

was rejuvenated, inside and out –

upper body to the left and right,

and that feeling lingered on as the

helping me to reach the ﬁrst level of

therapist served me a refreshing

relaxation. Her on-point pressure and

contained chamomile, she massaged

drink and a plate of fresh fruit to

strokes that are inspired by the dance

my face with a distinctive technique

complete the total rejuvenation. n

movements in the Ramayana story

and applied a facemask that was

By Risty Nurraisa

took me to a deeper sedative state of

made of a mix of fresh fruit before

mind, so relaxed that I dozed off until

she ﬁnally cleansed my face once

Rama Sita Spa

the therapist asked me to turn over

again. Next, she put a cloth on

Griya Santrian

on the bed with my face up.

the back of my head, and with her

Jalan Danau Tamblingan No. 47,

hands grabbed each end of the cloth

Sanur

using sweet almond to cleanse

to lift my head up and stretched

(0361) 288-181

my face. Then using face oil that

my head and neck to the left and

www.santrian.com/griya

The therapist gave me a facial

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

FIRST AND SECOND PAGE PHOTOS COURTESY OF RAMA SITA SPA, THIRD PAGE PHOTOS BY RISTY NURRAISA

The Rama Sita signature massage

ingredients but it also applied

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

Penjor up! The tall bam boo pole de leaves and corated with offerings w coconut ere spotted Bali as the almost ever Balinese ce ywhere in le brated Galun mark the vi gan and Ku ctory of Dha ningan to rma (good (wrongness deeds) over ). Adharma

es sites in se heritag the Chine f o ang Siur p ne o im , S Temple lan Bypass Ja e th Dwipayana n o t u can visi Bali that yo r. sa a p in Den

Claiming to be the home of In Bar & Res donesian taurant is music, The always re local music Orchard ady to sho ians whose wcase tale voice and will blow nted one’s min performanc d! This ne e quality cobblesto wly-revam ne stage w ped bar ha here music curated tu sa performanc nes are ho es with ﬁne sted three serve Eng times a w lish-inspired eek… and comfort fo they od as wel l!

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

PHOTOS BY RISTY NURRAISA AND SUHARTINA UHARTINA SINDUKUSUMO O

SIGHTS&SOUNDS

Our cork board of photos, quotes and fun facts that we picked ed up while exploring in August and September... er...

addition to Mama San, Mama San Tasting Club, the new g experience. Located dinin l eptua is offering guests a conc t, the Tasting Club uran resta the of oor ﬂ nd seco the on s like salmon tartar with serves selections of delectable dishe with pickled fennel us octop y Korean chilli, Yunnan Crisp bi mayo. Don’t wasa with roll hand crab shell soft and a er Club cocktail Clov or sh Sma er Flow forget to sip the Elder guests that ion ment to accompany the dinner. Did we action as they in team his and rick Mey Will can see Chef prepare dinner?

It was an evening to treasure as ou r team indulged “Jimbaran Food the Bazaar” at Belm ond Jimbaran Pu Choices of grilled ri. skewers were ser ved as well as de meatball soup, frie licious d noodle, fried ric e, martabak and more. The food ba zaar offers true Ba linese cuisine set traditional marke in a t style at the resort ’s Tanjung Garde n.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

REST&RELAXATION

A HOLIDAY MANSION EXPERIENCE THE ULTIMATE INDULGENCE AS WELL AS GIVE BACK TO SOCIETY BY JOINING IN LOCAL-ORIENTED ACTIVITIES…

their friendly staff gave us a warm welcome at the main entrance and soon the magniﬁcent view of the ocean had our jaws dropping. As the staff helped us with our check in, we couldn’t wait to stroll around the resort and explore this hidden

t was one beautiful Saturday

“Rumah luwih” actually means

beauty.

afternoon when I together with

a luxurious house, and the name

a couple of friends arrived at

is well represented in the whole

COLONIAL PALACE

Rumah Luwih in Gianyar. Our

design of this property, which was

Rumah Luwih is much inspired by

journey from the Kuta area to

born from the brain of notable

the Taman Ujung Water Palace in

this property took less than an hour,

Indonesian architect Hadiprana. This

Karangasem in East Bali, and the

but it felt as if we have traveled

white-walled colonial-style building

design marries East and West and

to another world as this area was

was more like a mansion, making

old and new age styles beautifully.

far calmer. But that wasn’t the only

us feel as if we were visiting a rich

White dominates almost every corner,

highlight of our getaway at this

relative instead of staying overnight

giving a sleek yet elegant vibe to the

boutique beach resort.

at a resort. That feeling continue as

place. The interior design is even

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

more extravagant with classic-style

chapel is like a mini version of the

chandeliers, ﬂoor-to-ceiling doors

Taman Ujung Water Palace as it is

and white pillars, and the wooden

surrounded by water. From the foyer

furniture giving a warm touch.

vantage point, the chapel stands

However, the ‘star’ of the

with the resort’s swimming pool and

property is of course the chapel,

the lake in the foreground and the

which becomes the center of

ocean in the background. It didn’t

attention. Nestled by the beach, this

take us long to believe that this resort

The pool, pond, chapel, and sea are lining in order at Rumah Luwih.

The Beach Bar Pavilion to relax and unwind.

has been hosting quite a number of romantic weddings and will see many more in the future. A beautiful white wedding would be perfect with a flock of swans swimming on the lake while guests gather on the manicured lawn and the newlyweds are dancing at the chapel. My friends and I could stand at the foyer and continue daydreaming about the perfect wedding, but our imagination was put aside when the staff told us that our rooms were ready. Rumah Luwih has five types of rooms – Prabanggana Room, Arnawakanta Room, Segara Suite, Giri Suite and Aruna Suite. The first was the type of room that our group

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

The spacious colonial style room.

stayed in, a 40-square meter deluxe

to Andrawina – The Dining Room

group dined under a clear night sky

room with a choice of king or twin

& BBQ Beach Bar Pavilion where

and we couldn’t stop gazing at the

bed. We instantly fell in love with

we sat at a long table and indulged

beautiful full moon that was rising in

the room once we walked in as it

in some delicious Indonesian food.

the east while relishing our dinner.

was ﬁlled with classic-style furniture

Located on the ground ﬂoor near

and the view of the manicured Luwih

the lobby, this restaurant is also

A LOCAL VISIT

Garden and Indian Ocean from our

designed in luxurious colonial

Rumah Luwih offers many

balcony took our breath away.

style, making us feel as if we were

fun activities for their guests.

attending a celebratory feast with

Aquarobics (a Zumba class in the

around the resort, and we could

the view of the resort’s manicured

pool) and morning yoga by the sea

see that the other rooms were just

garden and the ocean.

at the chapel, both are conducted

as astonishing. The Segara and

When the night came, our group

by a professional instructor, for

Giri Suites for instance, are the

experienced another culinary journey

instance. The resort also has options

two signature suites that cover 100

to treasure at the Beach Bar Pavilion.

for local-oriented activities like a

square meters of space. Each one

Nestled by the lake, the open-air

visit to a turtle conservation site

has a king-size bed, a separate

Beach Bar Pavilion offers a delicious

and a salt farm, both of which we

living room, and spacious balconies

BBQ for dinner with selections of

experienced.

overlooking the resort’s swimming

meat displayed on the buffet from

pool, the lake, the garden and the

steaks to sausages to seafood

morning, our group went to the Saba

ocean.

skewers. BBQ corn, salads and

Asri Turtle Conservation that is just a

potatoes are also served as the side

couple of minutes away from Rumah

our empty stomachs were calling

dishes. But it wasn’t just the delicious

Luwih. There we were welcomed

for lunch. And so our group headed

food that marked our dinner. Our

by staff that gave a detailed

After strolling around the resort

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

Using the resort’s shuttle the next

LAST PAGE PHOTOS BY RISTY NURRAISA, ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF RUMAH LUWIH

We were then taken on a tour

explanation on who they are and

an experience to treasure as we

couple of times before ﬁnally being

what they are doing. The Saba Asri

witnessed a salt farmer taking 25

taken to the ﬁnal process where the

Turtle Conservation is a self-funded

kilograms of sea water straight from

salt is dredged and made ready to

sea turtle sanctuary founded by local

the ocean and walking to the farm

sell on the market – or directly to the

ﬁshermen who are determined to

on the shoreline, then spilling the

visitors at the salt farm, at only Rp.

protect sea turtles from stray dogs

sea water onto the sand – the way

10,000/package!

and irresponsible humans. They

he moved as he spilled the water

also get a lot of support from the

was more like dancing, and he does

salt farmers, then headed back

locals – many of the locals report

this more or less 30 times a day,

to the resort to relax some more.

to the conservation when they ﬁnd

every day. The salt is then distilled a

Snoozing by the pool and chilling

We said goodbye to those

a female sea turtle making a nest and laying eggs on Lebih Beach. Saba Asri Turtle Conservation will then rescue the eggs, and then take care of them until the eggs hatch. The newly born turtles are then transferred to a pond where they are examined. Those who are healthy are released to the ocean straight away – and our group was pretty lucky to experience a sea turtle release during our visit. Afterwards, we went to a salt farm at Kusamba Beach. It was such

Releasing a baby sea turtle at Saba Asri Turtle Conservation.

at the resort’s lounge named Kirana – The Living Room, Café, Bar & Lounge were surely tempting, but getting pampered at the Vandaloka Spa was even better to end our wonderful stay at Rumah Luwih. n By Risty Nurraisa Rumah Luwih Boutique Beach Resort & Spa, Bali Jalan Prof. Ida Bagus Mantra Km 19.9, Gianyar (0361) 200-5899

A salt farmer (above) and salt (right) at Kusamba Beach.

www.rumahluwih.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

FOTOFOLIO

Dupa and tirta in Ubud.

BALI IN MY EYES Born in Cannes, France in 1958, Aimery Joëssel has always been deeply attracted to Southeast Asia. He traveled to Thailand in the ‘80s but it was Indonesia that stole his heart. He fell in love with Java, Kalimantan and of course, Bali. Since his ﬁrst visit to Indonesia in 1988, Aimery had been a regular visitor almost every year until he ﬁnally decided to reside in the country. During his last ten years of living in Indonesia, Aimery saw how fast everything changes and this inspired him to capture everything that still remained authentic, especially in Bali. This is how his photo collection titled “Bali in My Eyes” was born, which he now shares with us in the following pages. “This series is my favorite because the photos have a classical style with no cropping or postproduction effects,” Aimery explained. And when asked why he chose black and white for the pictures, he said, “Black and white is timeless. I like color, but when colors are not essential to the meaning of an image, I think that black and white captures the emotions better.” www.aimeryjoesselphotography.wordpress.com 46

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

Praying in Tirta Empul.

Tawur Kesanga Day #1 in Gianyar.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

During the Tawur Kesanga.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

Holy water at Pura Dalem Pingit.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

Sending prayers at Pura Dalem Pingit.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

Little black stones picker at Watu Klotok Beach.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

The Wawe at Watu Klotok Beach.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

LITTLELOVES

FINDING GOOD READS

PLACES TO VISIT FOR THOSE WHO ARE SEARCHING FOR GOOD SECOND-HAND BOOKS…

or a reader, cramming

place to buy books – offerings are

paperbacks end up at local

two or more paperbacks

limited, especially for discerning

bookshops around Kuta. Four or

into their luggage is

readers who have no faith in the

ﬁve tiny bookstalls can be found

mandatory as there is

bestsellers or summers must-read

on the legendary Poppies Lane, for

hardly a better way to

list. However, when it is time for the

instance. These stalls are modest

spend the holiday than sitting by the

bookish tourist to go home with their

in size, displaying a selection that

beach with a good book. The lack

overweight luggage and tanned

is solely governed by chance. The

of time that usually prevents a reader

skin, the ﬁnished books are often left

books are covered with plastic

from reading is no longer the case.

behind. And so those books end up

sheets to prevent damage from dust,

Days are long, and no book is too

in the hotel’s library or in the hand

heat or rain. Thriller and romance

thick or too complicated to ﬁnish

of entrepreneurial hotel workers who

genres are stacked together with

when one is at leisure.

still see their value.

Man Booker Prize’s winners and

Bali may not be known as the

Many of those slightly creased

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

autobiographies of famous athletes.

To browse these books is to marvel

those books, and later she would

at the kind of stories that people

sell them in her shop, alongside the

70’s, has retired and moved back

Suparni, who is now in her late

read during their holidays, and to

souvenirs,” explains Umbaryani,

to her village in North Bali. “She

see how terribly common or how

the daughter of Suparni who now

misses this bookshop, as I’ve always

laboriously smart their choices

runs the bookshop. The year was

thought that this is where her heart

were, all of those strangers who

1974 when the road in Kuta was

truly is,” says Umbaryani who is not

abandoned their books.

still unpaved. Visitors who came to

much of a reader unlike her mother.

Bali were mainly global nomads

Indeed, Suparni was often found

FROM THE ‘70s

and surfers who spent a lot of time

reading while manning the shop,

On Jalan Pantai Kuta near

chasing waves, hanging out in

but unlike those typical readers

Bemo Corner stands the modest

warungs and reading books.

who would snap at someone who

Kerta Bookshop, with its various guidebooks and paperbacks on display in its floor-to-ceiling window. This bookshop has been around for almost as long as Kuta itself, and it was Singaraja-born Konten Suparni who started it all. Coming from North Bali she first worked in Kuta selling souvenirs to tourists before she finally rented a small shop on Jalan Bunisari. “Then, one of the hotel owners told my mother about the used books in his hotel. He offered her

demands their attention, she would smile widely and welcome her guests, including me who used to spend a lot of time browsing through the shelves of the Kerta Bookshop.

THE BOOK STREET Two kilometers away from Kerta a different kind of bookseller is camped along the street at Double Six Beach. Amidst the roaring Muhtadi and his bookshop in Double Six.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

motorbikes, struggling cars and walking tourists are the motorbikes

The “book street”.

with stacks of books displayed

pretty ﬂexible and have quick reﬂexes

happened,” recounts Muhtadi, who

precariously, albeit effectively, on the

to browse the rich selection. Never

after the bomb earned his living by

seats. Passersby only need to stop

before has buying a book come

selling food supplies. However, he

for a few seconds before the eager

with such a high risk of being hit by

preferred the company of books and

seller approaches them. The titles are

a motorbike, but that is one of the

went back into the business when

random, although many of them are

charms of this bookshop. The other

he managed to acquire his current

more for masculine readers.

charm is Muhtadi, the owner of the

establishment in 2009.

approximately 1,800 books. Born in

Despite having access to so many

actually lies on the recently named

Semarang in Central Java, Muhtadi

books, Muhtadi doesn’t read in

Gang Blue Ocean. In accordance

has been living in Bali since 1998.

English. “The only English-written

to the spirit of storytelling, the

“I ﬁrst came to Bali to sell chicken

book I ever read was Paulo Coelho

hidden treasure is found under the

noodles but it was not as proﬁtable

and it took me a long time to ﬁnish

staircase. Blink and you will miss it;

as I expected. For a while I was

because I had to open the dictionary

the bookshop is located under the

jobless until I found a job selling

all the time!” he admitted, laughing

staircase of a spa, at the entrance

newspapers and magazines on

and confessing his particular love

of a busy alley. The books are lined

Poppies Lane. Then I started selling

for the spiritual and historical genre.

up tightly and neatly categorized

some used books that I got from

Truly, supporting local businesses

based on the last name of the author.

hotels and tourists. The business

has never been so bookishly fun. n

However, one would have to be

was good until Bali bombing

By Eve Tedja

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

PHOTOS BY EVE TEDJA

The real gem of this “book street”

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

ACTION&ATTRACTION

DARE TO ESCAPE

ave you ever

word “tricky” is applied in so many

and addicted to the game! And that

daydreamed of

aspects, including the location

is what I actually felt after trying out

being a detective that

of this attraction. To get to Totem

one of the games at Totem Room

can solve crimes? Or

Room Escape Bali one needs to

Escape Bali as well.

to be a secret agent

walk through a tiny alley and reach

Are you curious what they

on an impossible mission? Before

the lobby, whose walls are full of

have in store? Come and join my

your imagination becomes reality,

Polaroid photos of guests that have

adventure...

you will need to head to Totem Room

come to the place. Those pictures

Escape Bali in Seminyak to test

also depict how complex yet fun the

THE SECRET AGENT

yourself on whether you are capable

games are by showing the people’s

Together with three friends of mine,

of solving riddles and ﬁnding yourself

facial expressions – some are happy

I walked into Totem Room Escape

way out of locked rooms in a short

and proud to have accomplished

Bali with low expectations on the

period of time.

the game in time, while others are

difﬁculties of the game. When we

confused and maybe curious why

arrived the staff told us that there

and behind a store, Totem Room

they didn’t ﬁnish on time. However,

were four rooms to choose from,

Escape Bali surely knows how to

they all have that one similar look

each one with a different difﬁculty

build their “tricky” character. The

in common – that they are hooked

level. “Locked in Darkland” is the

Hiding under a pizza joint

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

PHOTOS OF THE WALL, BOOKS AND MAP BY MELIYANA SANTOSO, ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF TOTEM ROOM ESCAPE BALI

CHALLENGE YOURSELF TO ESCAPE FROM ONE OF THE GAME ROOMS AT TOTEM ROOM ESCAPE BALI...

Time is ticking while you are trying to escape!

displayed, showing us the rules of the game. One of the rules said that we were only given two chances to ask the game master for clues using a walkie-talkie – and trust me, this walkie-talkie helped a lot when we Can Monalisa help you ﬁnd a clue?

felt clueless. “You only have 50 minutes to get out of the room. Good luck!” said the staff. Then our quest to unfold a mystery began. The ﬁrst door took us to a room ﬁlled with paintings and

game began until the end. Time was ticking as we were

a treasure box, and led us to the

trying to get out of the last room. But

next room where we found another

that’s what we called it a challenge

treasure box and a folding ladder – I

– we nearly ﬁnished, so we gave

think you can guess which one of

our best effort to open the last door.

easiest, followed by the “Egyptian

those things took us to the following

And we did it… Although we did not

Secret”, “Kidnapped” and “Mission

room that resembled a pipe room.

make it in 50 minutes’ sharp, it was

Impossible”. The latter is the hardest

Our group kept on scouting for

the teamwork and cohesive action

yet the favorite of them all, and is

clues and trying to solve puzzles to

that actually counted. From the

perfect for from two to six people.

get us into the next room. What I

around 50 minutes we spent in the

The staff suggested we take the

loved the most is the fact that these

game room, our group learned that

“Mission Impossible”, and although

challenges pushed us to work as a

everything is possible with a positive

we hesitated for a second we

team and to think outside the box

mindset and a great team. And this

did agreed with a high level of

as each room has obscure, unique

experience intrigued us enough to

conﬁdence.

and tricky codes to reveal – some

try the other game rooms. Challenge

even had the element of surprise

accepted? n

locker room where we stored our

that divided our group into two yet

By Suhartina Sindukusumo

footwear, bags and phones, as we

made us even more solid at the same

were not allowed to bring these

time. This game was a lot of fun as

Totem Room Escape Bali

belongings into the game room.

it allowed us to play secret agents

Jalan Kayu Aya no. 27, Seminyak

Then we followed her to a transit

in the kind of action that we usually

0815-5822-2222

room where a television screen was

see in movies, from the moment the

www.totemroomescape.com

One of the staff then led us to a

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

BEYONDBALI

THE GEMS OF SAWAHLUNTO

REVEALING THE HISTORY OF WHAT USED TO BE A POPULAR MINING TOWN…

This town has been known as Indonesia’s largest coal producer since the time of Dutch colonization, where a reserve of 205 million tons of coal was ﬁrst indicated during the RDM Verbeek’s expedition in 1875 – the mine also covered the surrounding area of the town such

ocated 95 kilometers away

thus the name “Sawahlunto” was

as the Durian River, Sigakut, Tanah

and taking a two-hour drive

born. But today, it is the century-

Hitam and Perambahan.

from Padang, the capital

old buildings in the city that have

city of West Sumatra,

become the main attraction.

Sawahlunto offers sights like

Sawahlunto is ﬁlled with

However, the coal mining operation was closed in 1998 and the city’s economy consequently

no other for the history enthusiast.

numerous Dutch-colonial buildings

collapsed, causing many of the

According to the local people, this

dating back to the early 20th century.

residents to leave town to try their

area used to be covered by a vast

luck elsewhere. But Sawahlunto

rice ﬁeld (sawah) through which a

got back on its feet after the local

river named Batang Lunto ran – and

government renovated the decades-

60 6 0

Pen Sin Kek House.

BA BAL B BALI&BEYOND AL A LI& &B &BE BEY BE BEYON YO YON OND O ON OND OCTOBER CTO CT C TOB TO BER BE ER E R 20 2 2016 016 16

old mining facilities, turning them into fascinating tourist attractions. So Sawahlunto has now moved from a former industrial mining town to an attractive tourist destination. Visitors will ﬁnd a lot of fascinating places in the city, and these four are only a sample of them. Soero Tunnel, the mining hole.

PEK SIN KEK HOUSE Built in 1906, this building ﬁrst belonged to a successful Chinese

SOERO TUNNEL

businessman named Pek Sin Kek,

From 1898 to 1930, the Soero

who ran his business in the city

Tunnel was a noted mining hole.

center. Over the years it had been

The name “Soero” is derived from

used as a theatre, the ofﬁce of the

a respected miner at the time when

Malay Society Association and

the tunnel was still in operation.

more. After being rejuvenated in

The tunnel is believed to be tens of

2005 and 2006, the Pek Sin Kek

kilometers long but only 186 meters

House has been transformed into

are open for tourists, and it has

the visit, each tourist will receive

a gift shop where tourists can ﬁnd

turned into tourist-friendly attraction

a certiﬁcate. Visitors will need to

souvenirs while admiring the unique

with lights, iron handrails, ventilation,

architecture.

and stairs. However, there is nothing

Info Box gallery in order to enter

“friendly” about the history of this

the tunnel.

The house is not far from the

Mak Itam at the train museum.

town’s traditional market and

tunnel as the coal miners used to

is really easy to spot due to its

be known as chained man (orang

TRAIN MUSEUM

distinctive design. After visiting the

rantai) because their legs and necks

This is Indonesia’s second train

Pek Sin Kek House, visitors can

were chained all the time.

museum after the one in Ambarawa

go to the market and the Gluck

In 1947, the gallery was a labor

in Central Java. This museum was

Auf, also known as Gedung Pusat

hall where various activities were held

a train station built by the Dutch in

Kebudayaan Sawahlunto (The

ranging from employees meetings

1918 and a silent witness to the

Cultural Center of Sawahlunto), to

to shadow puppet shows and movie

black pearl exploitation during that

enjoy the town’s culinary delights.

screenings after payday. Today the

era. At that time these locomotives

The Gluck Auf was built in 1910 as

building serves as the information

were transporting coal to Padang’s

a place where Dutch ofﬁcials sang

center for the Soero Tunnel.

Teluk Bayur harbor, which was

and danced, but on December 1,

The Soero Tunnel has welcomed

then known as Emmahaven. Here,

2006, the building was renovated

tourists since 2007, and visitors can

visitors can ﬁnd a lot of literature,

and turned into the city’s cultural

also see some historical photos and

photographs and the relics of

center. Now it serves as a meeting

watch a movie about the history

railroad tools used in the past,

hall with a café that offers local

of the mine at the gallery that are

which are now over 100 years old.

specialties.

equally interesting. At the end of

One of the most famous coal-

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

Goedang Ransoem Tunnel used to be a storage for the Dutch to keep food for the miners.

powered trains of this route is the

to be a gigantic kitchen built by the

there were often ﬁghts over how little

legendary Mak Itam, which means

Dutch in 1918 to supply food to

the portions were for the kitchen

“black uncle” – it is currently being

the miners and to the patients at the

workers and coal miners.

kept in a hanger for a complete and

local hospital. Huge pans, pots and

better repair before it is fully operated

coal-ﬁred stoves are on display with

short video about the complex as

again this year to fulﬁll the people’s

sizes that would make one’s jaw

well as some photographs and relics

demand. However, maintaining Mak

drop – and a pang in the heart after

with very informative description.

Itam is a challenging task since spare

knowing that the kitchen exploited

The museum is neat, clean and worth

parts are no longer available and

underage children as part of its

visiting.n

therefore the town needs to ﬁnd a

labor force. According to the locals,

By Donny Syofyan

HOW TO GET THERE:

Laura Hotel Sawahlunto Jalan Ahmad Yani No. 210, Sawahlunto (0754) 612-14

Here, visitors can also view a

some retired technicians of the state-owned train operator PT Kereta Api Indonesia (KAI) were assisted by a number of experts as they are struggling to take care of this old locomotive. Let’s just hope their plan will work because the comeback of

From Bali, you can get to Padang via Jakarta. Daily ﬂights from Jakarta to Padang are available on Garuda Indonesia, Citilink and Lion Air. Cars are available for rent in Sawahlunto at Rp 500,000, inclusive of a driver and fuel for a day trip. You can also book airport pickups beforehand.

Mak Itam could really boost tourist arrivals.

GOEDANG RANSOEM MUSEUM “Goedang ransoem” means a food storehouse, and this building used

WHERE TO STAY: Parai Hotel Sawahlunto Jalan Bagindo Aziz Chan, Sawahlunto (0754) 628-88 Ombilin Hotel Sawahlunto Jalan M. Yamin, Kel Pasar, Kec Lembah Segar, Sawahlunto (0754) 611-84

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

Wisma KKSO Sawahlunto (0754) 410-632 Wisma BDTBT Sawahlunto Jalan Sungai Durian, Kec Barangin, Sawahlunto (0754) 616-04 Wisma Mutiara Sawahlunto Jalan Prof. M. Yamin, Talawi, Sawahlunto (0754) 410-061

MAK ITAM PHOTO COURTESY OF MUSEUM SAWAHLUNTO, ALL OTHERS BY DONNY SYOFYAN

way to rejuvenate this train. Recently,

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

CAPITALCORNER

WINDOWS TO THE WORLD

JENDELA JAKARTA IS STRIVING TO GIVE UNDERPRIVILEGED CHILDREN IN JAKARTA ACCESS TO BOOKS, WHICH ACCORDING TO AN OLD SAYING IN INDONESIA ARE THE WINDOWS TO THE WORLD...

initially aimed to provide a mini

books. So the Jendela Community

library for the children refugees

established their ﬁrst library in

from the Mount Merapi eruption

Jakarta in 2012.

back in 2011.

They founded their ﬁrst library in

The pilot project took place in

Manggarai in South Jakarta, after a

akarta is like a two-sided coin

Cangkringan and, to their surprise,

much consideration on the location

when it comes to books. As the

the people of Yogyakarta supported

and, of course, permission from the

capital city of Indonesia, Jakarta

this movement, even after the people

local thugs. After Manggarai, two

gives everyone easy access to a

have left the shelters. Some of the

more libraries were established,

limitless choice of books, but at

founders then left Yogyakarta for

the Sungai Bambu Library in North

the same time, buying a book is not

other cities, including Jakarta where

Jakarta and the Serpong Library in

a privilege that everyone can share,

they found the same problem; that

South Tangerang in Banten. Each

especially the middle and lower

there are so many unfortunate

library has its own characteristics.

social classes, since the prices are

children who don’t have access to

The Manggarai Library holds classes

more expensive as compared to other regions in Indonesia. This is what motivated the founders of Jendela Jakarta to work together to provide good books for underprivileged children who mostly live in the slum areas...

A MOVEMENT BORN According to Jendela Jakarta Public Relations Coordinator Wilda Mulyaningsih, Jendela Jakarta was born from the Jendela Community, a national social movement that was founded by several students of the Gadjah Mada University in Yogyakarta. This social movement

A student is showing off his artwork.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

in a residential area, while the Sungai Bambu Library conducts classes under a highway ﬂyover. Meanwhile, the children at the Serpong Library are from a rural area and usually study in a hut surrounded by rice ﬁelds. The Jendela Community is also spreading its spirit of providing libraries for underprivileged children in other cities in Indonesia such as Bandung in West Java, Malang and Jember in East Java, Medan

The children are split up into two or three groups because the reading material for the elementary students is different from the high school students. They also often study just Students at the Serpong Library are studying among the greenery.

outside the library or, better yet, at a small park in front of the library. Jendela Jakarta receives books from donations, both from

and Siantar in North Sumatra,

welcomes volunteers from different

individuals and corporations– many

Bengkalis in Riau, Bangka in the

backgrounds, and these volunteers

of the companies donate books

Bangka Belitung Islands and Bandar

can give special classes to share

as a part of their social corporate

Lampung in Lampung. Each of

their knowledge to the children.

responsibility program. The books

these libraries have been established

That day, the children in the class

that Jendela Jakarta accepts are

by volunteers who have moved to

I visited were going to learn about

non-ﬁction as they aim to enrich

the area.

robots. Other days, they learn about

the children’s knowledge, although

things like the military, marines, or

ﬁction books are also welcome to

even cooking.

entertain the children.

A LIBRARY VISIT It was 2 p.m. on a sunny Saturday

The library is actually a modest

when I visited the Manggarai

3x3 meter room with a wooden

FUN PROGRAMS

Library, where the children read and

wall, located in a permanent

Aside from their regular classes,

study on the weekends from 2 p.m.

building. Inside the library there is

Jendela Jakarta also organizes a

to 4 p.m., and I was eager to join

a simple bookshelf made of iron

monthly activity called “One Day

one of their activities. Wilda showed

that displays rows of books. It is

One Trip” where ﬁve children from

up at the library during my visit and

in this library that the children join

Manggarai, Sungai Bambu and

took me to a special class conducted

their regular classes and read books

Serpong Library are taken on a tour

by a volunteer. Jendela Jakarta

accompanied by the volunteers.

to visit an educational site in Jakarta,

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

Volunteers are always welcome!

Jendela Jakarta also has a mobile

assist around 120 children. Most of

Every child has their turn alternately,

library that goes around to other

these volunteers work in corporate

and those who go on the tour have

parts of Jakarta. This October,

companies in Jakarta, but they

to share their experience with the

this community is celebrating their

work really well together as a team.

others in the library.

anniversary by hosting an event

The volunteers guide the children

together with other communities that

during reading time and help them

“Kakak Asuh” program, which aims

focus on different aspects yet are

understand the essence of the books.

to invite donors to help pay the

still in line with Jendela Jakarta, such

Sometimes they also create some

children’s tuition fee. One “Kakak

as the Bank Sampah (Trash Bank)

fun learning methods to help the

Asuh” or one donor will help one

Community, Jakarta Traditional

children study.

child. The amount of the donation

Game Community, and the Kite

varies between elementary, junior

Community. Those communities

two months to support each other

and senior high school students. The

hopefully will help the children

and set a benchmark to see if their

donor will receive a report about

in Jendela Jakarta improve their

efforts are succeeding. It is when

the student’s academic development

creativity.

the children want to read books

Another regular activity is the

every three months to see the

The volunteers meet once in every

on their own and being more well

progress of the child. Moreover,

THE VOLUNTEERS

behaved, which may take time but

each of the children will also make

One of the highlights during my

will eventually change. n

a One Month One Book report by

visit was surely the remarkable

By Edna Tarigan

describing the book they read in

volunteers. Jendela Jakarta has

that month.

around 50 active volunteers that

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

www.komunitasjendela.org

THIRD PAGE BOTTOM LEFT AND TOP RIGHT PHOTOS BY EDNA TARIGAN, ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF JENDELA JAKARTA

from museums to the Planetarium.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

BEYONDUPDATES

ARTSY FESTIVAL As a biennial event by Komunitas Salihara, “Salihara International Performing-arts Festival,” that is also known as “SIPFest 2016,” is back for the sixth time! This year, the festival that used to be called “Festival Salihara” will be ﬁlled with music, dance and theatre performances by 14 local and international performers at Komunitas Salihara’s theatre and gallery in Jakarta from October 1 to November 6. “SIPFest 2016” will also host many world-premiere and Asian-premiere performances with some prominent names include She-she Pop from Germany, Eko Supriyanto from Indonesia, Benoît Lachambre & montréal danse/Prisms from Canada and The Human Zoo from the UK. Don’t forget to check out the Pameran Ruang Terbuka Site-Speciﬁc exhibition at open spaces in Komunitas Salihara because there will be lots of beautiful artwork on display. Many of the performers will hold workshops for the crowd as well. Salihara International Performing-arts Festival (SIPFest) Komunitas Salihara Jalan Salihara No. 16, Pasar Minggu, Jakarta (021) 789-1202

ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

www.salihara.org

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

Advertorial

Celebrating the Opening of Kayumanis Resto Kayumanis Jimbaran Private Estate & Spa is delighted to announce the opening of its inspiring new restaurant. Poised to introduce guests to authentic Indonesian cuisine, Kayumanis Resto presents a full-flavoured menu driven by timeless recipes and locally sourced ingredients. Indonesia spans some 17,000 islands and is home to countless ethnic groups. As a result, the nation’s food culture is both vibrant and diverse. It is characterized by layers of intense flavour largely due to the availability of exotic spices. Kayumanis Resto hopes to give Indonesian cuisine a voice by serving distinctive dishes that honour different regions from around the archipelago. Classic favourites feature alongside modern fare to be paired with a unique selection of drinks and healthy herbal tonics. Housed within a replica of a traditional Javanese joglo, Kayumanis Resto is crafted almost entirely from sustainably sourced hardwood. This charming dining venue captures the rustic elegance of a bygone era. It seats up to 32 guests with an indoor area and wrap-around veranda surrounded by a tropical garden of dancing coconut palms. The interior décor of Kayumanis Resto is tastefully understated with just a few strategically placed artefacts and an inlay of hand-painted floor tiles. A stylish open-plan bar is positioned as

P. 62 361 705 777

the main focal point where drinks are prepared with artistic ﬂair. Chef Oka is in charge of the kitchen at Kayumanis Resto. He is a consummate professional with an impressive culinary background that includes several years working for the one of luxury hotel brand in Bali. Passionate about food from an early age, Chef Oka grew up watching his grandmother cook for the family using fresh ingredients grown in the garden of their village home. The menu that Chef Oka has created is intended to take guests on a sensory journey to many of Indonesia’s most well-known islands. There are a number of signature dishes including Bebek Panggang Mekudus, traditional Balinese smoked duck marinated in local spices and served on a small clay grill spices. Other favourites include Opor Ayam, a delicious Javanese chicken stew. There are also specialty dishes from Manado and Lombok, together with succulent Jimbaran seafood, spicy pork ribs, assorted satays and many more choices to satisfy hearty appetites. Open daily, Kayumanis Resto is the perfect venue for couples as well as social dining occasions for small groups of friends. Many dishes on the menu can be shared and guests are encouraged to sample a little bit of everything. Visitors are very welcome to come and experience superb Indonesian food and warm hospitality in a well-designed setting.

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER80364 2016 Bali, 69 Indonesia Jalan Yoga Perkanthi, Jimbaran F. 62 361 705 101 E. reservationjimbaran@kayumanis.com

W. www.kayumanis.com

COMMUNITYCALENDAR

PINKY RUN On October 22, let’s join the Bali Pink Ribbon fun walk or the 5K run along the ITDC garden and beach paths! The walk and run will start at 4 p.m. with registration two hours prior to the starting time. This event will even be more fun with food and drink stalls, a kids’ corner, shopping booths, rafﬂes and auctions, and live music that will last until 9 p.m. And for the ladies, you will get a free breast cancer and pap smear check as well. For only Rp. 150,000 nett for adults and Rp. 75,000 nett for children under-12, you can join this fun walk and run and get a T-shirt and mineral water. Bali Pink Ribbon (0361) 849-6098 www.balipinkribbon.com

EMBRACING BATIK Celebrating National Batik Day, Ayodya Resort Bali is holding their ﬁrst ever “Ayodya Batik Festival 2016” from October 7 to 9. The opening day festivities will take place at the resort’s Beach Garden, and the rest of the event will be held at the Grand Ballroom and Grand Ballroom Voyer. A number of Indonesian artists will perform during the festival, among them are Balawan, Batuan Ethnic and the Ceraken Gamelan Orchestra. There will be a fashion show by renowned designers including Aﬁf Syakur, Monika Weber, Dwi Iskandar, Joko SSP and more. Bring along your family and friends, as the festival will have an interactive entertainment that includes a children’s corner with traditional games as well as batik, tenun and jewelry making workshops. The festival’s night market will also please your palate with traditional Indonesian food and beverages. Don’t forget to check out the traditional local products by inspiring entrepreneurs during the festival! Ayodya Resort Bali Jalan Pantai Mengiat, Nusa Dua (0361) 771-102 www.ayodyaresortbali.com

CALLIGRAPHY ABUNDANTLY

his own twist that mimics the pulses of life, and this what brings his paintings to life. Made Wianta’s exhibition at Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort will last until December 15. Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort BTDC Lot N5, Nusa Dua (0361) 849-2888 www.sofitel-bali-nusadua.com

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

ALL COURTESY PHOTOS

A series of mind-blowing calligraphic painting by world-class contemporary Balinese artist Made Wianta is currently on display in the lobby area of the Soﬁtel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort – and surely this is an exhibition not to be missed, especially for calligraphy and art enthusiasts. A total of 22 paintings are showcased, each one exposing free-ﬂowing lines on densely patterned surfaces. His calligraphic works are much inspired by Japanese kanji and Chinese characters, but Made Wianta gives

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

SEE&SEEN

JAZZ IN THE VILLAGE The annual Ubud Village Jazz Festival hit a success note for the fourth time! The lively festival showcased a lineup of 70 local and international artists on three different stages: Giri, Padi and Subak. Hundreds of jazz enthusiasts attended this two-day festival, as they didn’t want to miss watching the live performances of notable names like Peter Bernstein, Reuben Rogers, Julian Banks and Oele Pattiselanno. www.ubudvillagejazzfestival.com

SWEET 30 Bali Island School (BIS) has just turned 30! As the oldest international school on the island, they celebrated their birthday by hosting an International Day where all the students, parents and staff were dressed in their national costumes and organized into country groups. The celebration started with a ﬂag parade followed by a Balinese ceremony, a gamelan performance and speeches from guests and students. There were also creative activities such as decorating country booths with their signature food like Swiss fondue, Columbian ceviche and Swedish Chocolate balls. Various performances and fun games like Pingpong Jar and Hook the Duck also made the birthday party a memorable one! www.baliinternationalschool.com

CULINARY NIGHT

SEASIDE JAZZ Another success came from the 6th Jazz Market by the Sea. Held at Taman Bhagawan, this annual jazz festival entertained visitors with performances of A-class Indonesian musicians like KLA Project, Dialog Dini Hari featuring Endah and Rhesa, and White Shoes and the Couples Company. There were also cultural workshops and food stalls from notable tenants during the three-day event. www.jazz-market.com 72

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

UBUD VILLAGE JAZZ PHOTOS BY FREANDY RUMAGIT AND PHALAYASA SUKMAKARSA, ALL OTHERS COURTESY PHOTOS

The Marriott – Indonesian Culinary Journey “Game of Stoves” continues as the winning chefs from the Marriott’s internal cooking competition served their winning dishes at the Courtyard Bali Seminyak Resort. The event titled “Food Truck Block Party” indulged guests with delicious authentic Indonesian ﬂavors. These chefs also presented their dishes at The Stones - Legian, Bali - A Marriott Autograph Collection and Courtyard Bali Nusa Dua. www.courtyardseminyak.com

NETWORK RECHARGED! “Recharge Night” by Bali & Beyond magazine is back! Taking place at the Baruna Sky Lounge at Jimbaran Bay Beach Resort & Spa on September 2, the party was a lot of fun with entertainment from DJs, percussion and salsa performances and the support of our generous partners and sponsors such as Sababay Winery, Balimoon, Heineken, Moments to Go and Hard Rock FM Bali. Also, the door prizes from Bali Safari and Marine Park, The One Legian, Pullman Bali Legian Nirwana, Conrad Bali, Bali Paragon Resort Hotel, W Retreat & Spa Bali, Seminyak, H Boutique Hotel Jogjakarta, The RitzCarlton, Bali and Pan Paciﬁc Nirwana Bali Resort made the night even merrier! www.baliandbeyond.co.id

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016

INFOINDEX

AIRLINES

Tel: (0361) 286-465, Fax: (0361) 286-408 E-mail: bali@honorary.mzv.cz

Renon, Denpasar Fax: (0361) 263-310 E-mail: rtc_bali@thaimail.com

■ AIRPORT OPERATOR Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ FRANCE

■ CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS

Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8, Sanur Tel: (0361) 285-485, Fax: (0361) 286-406 E-mail: consul@dps.centrin.net.id

■ TIMOR LESTE Jl. Prof. Yamin No. 4, Renon, Denpsar Tel: (0361) 235-093, Fax: (0361) 235-092 E-mail: cgtl@dpsbali.com

■ GERMANY

■ UNITED STATES

Tel: (0361) 768-358, Fax: (0361) 768-369

Jl. Pantai Karang 17, Batujimbar, Sanur Tel: (0361) 288-535, Fax: (0361) 288-826 Email: germanconsul@bali-ntb.com

Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 233-605, Fax: (0361) 222-426 E-mail: amcobali@indosat.net.id

■ ROYAL BRUNEI

■ HUNGARY

Tel: (0361) 757-292

■ SINGAPORE AIRLINES

Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219, Sanur. Tel: (0361) 287-701, Fax: (0361) 287-456 Email: huconbali@telkom.net

Jl. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, Airport Tel: (0361) 936-8388, Fax: (0361) 936-8383

■ INDIA

■ GARUDA Jl. Jalan Sugianyar, 5 Denpasar

Jl. Raya Puputan 163, Renon - Denpasar Tel. (0361) 259-502/259-503 Fax.(0361) 259-505

Wisthi Sabha Building, 2nd Floor Ngurah Rai International Aiprort Call Centre: 0804-1-888888

■ CONTINENTAL MICRONESIA

Tel. (0361) 227-824, Fax: (0361) 226-298 24-hour access: 08071-807-807

■ MERPATI Jl. Gatot Subroto Tengah, 26 Denpasar Tel: (0361) 411-364 Airport Tel: (0361) 9351-011, ext. 5240/5242 Hotline: Tel: (0361) 722-740, 722-741

■ MANDALA AIRLINES Komp. Plaza Kertawijaya Jl. Diponogoro No. 98, Denpasar, Reservation Call center 08041234567

■ NGURAH RAI AIRPORT Tel/Fax: (0361) 759-761

HEALTH&MEDICAL

■ ITALY Lotus Enterprises Building Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran Tel: (0361) 701-005, Fax: (0361) 701-005 E-mail: italconsbali @italconsbali.org

■ JAPAN Jl. Raya Puputan 170, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-628, Fax: (0361) 265-066 E-mail: denpasar@dp.mofa.go.jp

■ MALAYSIA Alam Kulkul Boutique Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: (0361) 752-520, Fax: (0361) 766-373 E-mail: info@consulmalaysia-bali.com

■ THAI INTERNATIONAL Grand Bali Beach Sanur, Tel: (0361) 288-141

■ QATAR AIRWAYS Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel, South Kuta Beach Tel: (0361) 752-222; Fax: 753-788. Departure International Terminal, 2nd ﬂ. – Room OP.II.8 East Wing Ngurah Rai International Airport Tel: (0361) 9360274; Fax : (0361) 9360275 ■ DEPARTURE Arrive at the airport two hours prior to departure. A Rp. 150,000 international departure tax is required. Domestic departure fee is Rp 75,000. No Fiscal tax-exempt to pay for Indonesian and expatriates holding KITAS for International departure. Ngurah Rai Intíl Airport, Tel: (0361) 751-011

■ MEXICO PT Puri Astina Putra Building Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1A, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 223-266, Fax: (0361) 244-568 E-mail: consulmex@astinatravel.com

Call an ambulance by dialing 118, but it is a lot more practical and quicker to hire a taxi. Most hotels have on-call doctors on standby. For “Bali Belly”, Lomotil and Imodium eliminate symptoms, but not gastro-related infections. A fever along with symptoms requires doctor-prescribed antibiotics. Drink as much liquid as possible. Isotonic drinks under various brand names are widely available and are known to replenish body hydration and replace ﬂuids. For discomfort, diarrhea and cramping, drink strong, hot tea; avoid fruits and spicy foods. Some day-biting mosquitoes carry dengue fever, but this is not a problem in tourist areas. Bali is non-malarial and prophylaxis is not required. Mosquito bites, cuts or abrasions easily become infected in the tropics. Treat them immediately. Drink only bottled or boiled water. Peel fruit before eating; avoid raw vegetables except at reputable restaurants. Ice in restaurants is safe. Protect yourself from the intense equatorial sun. Use high SPF sunblock and a hat. AIDS and sexually transmitted diseases are increasing in Indonesia. Local sex workers have multiple partners from around the world. They are not checked for sexually transmitted diseases. Act responsibly and use condoms, available over the counter at pharmacies.

■ NETHERLANDS

■ ROYAL DANISH Sunset Road No. 89 Ruko Sunset Indah I Kav. 3 Tel: (0361) 821-6979, Fax: (0361) 7666-38 E-mail: danishconsbali@gmail.com

CLINIC&HOSPITAL 24-hour emergency medical clinic services, medical evacuation, multilingual staff. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 710-505, Fax: (0361) 710-515

(ARMA) Ubud, Tel: (0361) 976-659, Fax: 974-229. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, open daily 8 am-6pm

■ ABIAN KAPAS Jl. Nusa Indah, East Denpasar Tel: (0361) 227-176

■ ANTONIO BLANCO Ubud , Tel: (0361) 975-502, 975-551 open daily 8 am-5 pm

■ ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Pejeng, Tel: (0361) 942-352 Open 8 am - 3 pm weekdays

■ GEDONG KIRTYA HISTORICAL LIBRARY Tel: (0362) 25141, Jl. Veteran, Singaraja. Open 7am - 3pm Monday Thursday, until Fridaynoon, closed on weekends

■ GALLERY SENIWATI Jl. Ubud Raya, Gianyar. Tel: (0361) 975-485 ■ MUSEUM BALI Tel: (0361) 235-059, 222-680, Jl. Let. Kol Wisnu, Denpasar ■ MUSEUM LE MAYEUR Tel: (0361) 286-164, Jl. Hang Tuah, Sanur. Open 8 am - 2 pm, Tuesday - Sunday.

■ MUSEUM MANUSA YADNYA Mengwi, open daily, but often unattended

■ MUSEUM NEKA Tel: (0361) 975-074, 975-034, Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud open daily 9 am - 5 pm.

Tel: (0361) 975-136, 971-159, Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, www.mpl-ubud.com

■ MUSEUM RUDANA Tel: (0361) 975-779, 976-479, Peliatan, Ubud

■ MUSEUM SUBAK Tel: (0361) 810-315, Jl. Raya Kediri, Desa Sanggulan, Tabanan

■ BIMC Hospital Kuta ■ POLAND

■ BRITAIN

■ SPAIN

■ BIMC Hospital Nusa Dua

Jl. Tirta Nadi 20, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 270-601, Fax: (0361) 287-804 E-mail: bcbali@dps.centrin.net.id

Istana Kuta Galeria, Blok Vallet 2, No. 11 Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta Tel: (0361) 769-296, Fax: (0361) 769-296 E-mail: espana_bali@blueline.net.id

24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre, Dialysis Centre, Dental Centre. Kawasan BTDC, Blok D, Nusa Dua 80363, Tel: (0361) 3000-911, Fax: (0361) 3001-150

NEW ZEALAND Jl. Tantular No. 32, Renon - Denpasar 80234 Tel: (0361) 241-118, Fax: (0361) 221-195 E-mail: bali.congen@dfat.gov.au www.bali.indonesia.embassy.gov.au

■ AGUNG RAI MUSEUM OF ART

■ INTERNATIONAL SOS CLINIC

Jl.Gunung Agung 93, Denpasar 80118 Tel: (0361) 426-171, Fax: (0361) 426-477 E-mail: konsulslowakbali@yahoo.com

■ AUSTRALIA, CANADA,

MUSEUMS

■ MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN

KCB Travel, Jl. Raya Kuta 127, Kuta Tel: (0361) 761-502, Fax: (0361) 752-777 E-mail: dutchconsulate@kcb-tours.com

24h Accident and Emergency Centre, 24h Medical Centre, international standard hospital with fully equipped ambulances, emergency room, intensive care unit, operating theatres, radiology and pathology, ward rooms, international and multilingual team of medical experts, CosMedic Centre for non-invasive and invasive cosmetic and aesthetic treatments. Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta 80361 Tel: (0361) 761-263, Fax: (0361) 767-701

CONSULATES

■ RUMAH SAKIT UMUM PUSAT SANGLAH (General Hospital): Jl. Diponegoro, Sanglah, Denpasar. Tel: (0361) 227-911/15

Jl. Raya Petitenget No. 11, Block I/C, Banjar Umasari, Kerobokan Tel: (0361) 732-165, Fax: (0361) 732-165 E-mail: consul@balipolandconsulate.com

■ SLOVAKIA

TOURIST INFO. ■ INTEGRATED TOURISM INFORMATION CENTER (ITIC) A one-stop tourist information complex of ten provinces in Indonesia comprising Bali, Lampung, Jakarta, Banten, West Java, Central Java, East Java, Jogjakarta. Jl. Raya Kuta 2, Kuta, 80361; Tel: (0361) 766-188

■ NGURAH RAI INTERNATIONAL

■ BRAZIL Jl. Raya Legian No. 186, Kuta Tel: (0361) 757-775, Fax: (0361) 751-005 E–mail: brazilconsul@bali.net

■ SWEDEN & FINLAND Segara Village Hotel, Jl. Segara Ayu Tel: (0361) 282-211, Fax: 282-211 E-mail: sweconsul@yahoo.com

■ CHILE Jl. Jl. Pengembak Gg 1 No. 3, Sanur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 756-781, Fax: (0361) 756-783 E-mail: chilehonconsulate@bali-villa.com

■ CZECH REPUBLIC Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur.

■ THAILAND Jl. Puputan Raya No. 81,

■ BADUNG GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Kuta Raya 2, Kuta Tel: (0361) 756-175/76

■ BALI GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE Jl. Supratman, Niti Mandala, Renon, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 222-387

■ SILOAM HOSPITALS

■ SINGARAJA TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Jl. Veteran 23, Singaraja Tel: (0362) 251-41

24-hour emergency 779-911 Jl. Sunset Road No. 818, Kuta, Badung, Bali Tel: +62-361-779-900 E-mail: info.bali@siloamhospitals.com

■ UBUD TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE Jl. Raya Ubud, Gianyar Tel: (0361) 96-285, 973-285; 8 am - 9 pm

■ SWITZERLAND & AUSTRIA Jl. Ganetri 9 D, Gatot Subroto Timur, Denpasar Tel: (0361) 264-149, Fax: (0361) 243-747 E-mail: bali@honrep.ch

AIRPORT Tel: (0361) 751-011

BALI&BEYOND OCTOBER 2016