ATHLEISURE MAG #68 AUG 2021 | The Art of the Snack: J-Spec

This month's The Art of the Snack takes us to J-Spec Wagyu Dining and the Omakase Counter in NYC. Anytime we have the chance to have Wagyu, it's definitely a treat and being able to have an Omakase meal is another one of those indulgences that have to be enjoyed. We chatted with Chef Koichi Ando to find out about this restaurant, what we should get when we dine there next and more!

ATHLEISURE MAG: Tell me about your culinary background and how it led you to J-Spec Omakase.

CHEF KOICHI ANDO: I worked at the Michelin starred Tempura Matsui, the first authentic tempura restaurant in New York City, for 4 years from the restaurant’s opening. I was trained by Mr. Matsui himself, who was a tempura master in Japan before moving to New York to open his own restaurant. He was the executive chef at that time and, sadly, has since passed away. I was the last person trained by him and learned the art of tempura from him. Combining my love of tempura and J-Spec's focus on wagyu, the omakase counter allows us to showcase both sides. I’m also excited to be able to offer "wagyu tempura" since no other places serve it as traditionally in Japan meat is not used in tempura dishes, which feature vegetables and seafood.

AM: What can guests expect when they come to dine at J-Spec Wagyu Dining?

CHEF KE: At J-Spec Wagyu Dining guests can enjoy real A5 wagyu prepared with various cooking methods, from raw in a tartare or sushi to grilled steaks and many different options in between. A5 wagyu is the highest quality rating of Japanese wagyu beef. It is known for intense marbling, which results in exquisite flavor, texture and tenderness. Because our parent company, Tomoe Food Services, brings some of the best wagyu available in Japan to New York (and Miami), we not only have access to the best of the best wagyu, but are able to offer it to our guests at a more affordable price point. At J-Spec Wagyu Dining, guests can try different types of wagyu from all over Japan, some of it very rare and produced in small amounts like the Ozaki beef from a single farm owned by Mr. Muneharu Ozaki in Miyazaki Prefecture or Hida beef from Gifu Prefecture, which we will be featuring at the restaurant in September, when we also launch the Omakase Counter next door to Wagyu Dining.

AM: What are 3 appetizers that you suggest that we should enjoy?

CHEF KE: A la carte at J-Spec Wagyu Dining: Wagyu Tartare, Foie Gras & Uni Macaron is a decadent dish that combines fresh raw wagyu with foie gras and sea urchin for a unique and delicious experience. Overstuffed Wagyu Sushi is over the top (as the name suggests) with a slice of seared wagyu over rice accented with pickled takana (mustard greens) and nori that’s topped with ikura (salmon roe) and sea urchin. Wagyu, Uni & Caviar Hand Rolls – another delicious combination that showcases the wagyu.

AM: What are 3 entrees that you suggest that we should order?

CHEF KE: A la carte at J-Spec Wagyu Dining: Wagyu Flight is a tasting of two kinds of wagyu that usually comes with the prized A5 Ozaki Beef strip loin and another A5 wagyu, depending on what’s best that day. You will discover how very different the two types of wagyu are even though they will be the same cuts. Ozaki Striploin Steak – this is a real treat as no other restaurant in New York uses Ozaki beef. Usually, the origin of the wagyu brand name is the prefecture of the origin or a local specialty. However, Ozaki beef is named after Mr. Ozaki. Ozaki beef is truly exceptional with well-balanced flavors compared to oth-

er wagyu. Ozaki Surf & Turf is a J-Spec original dish composed of sliced Ozaki beef, sea urchin and shiso leaves. We sear the beef tableside for the guests, then top it with uni and wrap in shiso to serve.

AM: For our readers that have not had the experience of Omakase, what is it?

CHEF KE: Omakase means "up to the chef," the guests let us create a meal for them. We use the best seasonal ingredients available at the moment to prepare it, paying attention not only to the flavors but also the presentation and aromas for a full sensory experience for our guests. I base my approach on three elements: "Shun" Present, "Nagori" Past, "Hashiri" Future. Shun presents that the best ingredients of the season, Nagori represents ending season for some of the ingredients that are about to disappear and Hashiri presents that first harvest of the coming new season.

AM: Tell me about Omakase Counter and what this menu is like.

CHEF KE: The counter is a more intimate experience, seating only up to seven guests at a time. The omakase showcases both best quality wagyu and the art of tempura. It features 8 courses, although the tempura part of the menu includes 9 or more pieces served one by one with all the traditional accompaniments so the entire experience takes about two hours. The tempura pieces include lightly battered seafood from Japan, seasonal vegetables, mushrooms, and filet mignon of wagyu wrapped in shiso leaf – nobody else is serving wagyu tempura. Other parts of the omakase include seasonal appetizers, sashimi of fish, wagyu sushi (raw and torched), fragrant broth with seafood and mushrooms, grilled A5 wagyu, shokuji rice of the day, dessert and tea. The menu is seasonally driven and will be changing frequently.

AM: What sake pairings do you suggest when enjoying Omakase?

CHEF KE: We have a sake pairing designed to complement the food, which features about eight different sakes from Japan, ranging in flavors, body, styles and aromas. We also have a list of sake by the bottle so guests can choose their favorite sake or discover new ones.

AM: When you're planning your menu, what are the items that you like to offer and how does seasonality play into this?

CHEF KE: I always focus on using fresh, peak quality ingredients to truly experience the season. I love going to the greenmarket to buy vegetables and how they change with the seasons. I want our guests to enjoy the different ingredients the four seasons bring us and create memorable experiences for them at the J-Spec Omakase Counter.

AM: You open in Sept as we begin transitioning into fall and looking towards the holiday season. What are you looking forward to with the restaurant?

CHEF KE: Autumn is the time of harvest, there are so many beautiful seasonal ingredients going into fall that I’m excited about and look forward to serving our guests, like matsutake mushrooms, for example, coming in October.

AM: Are there plans to open additional locations?

CHEF KE: Yes, there are plans to open more restaurants in the future. J-Spec Wagyu Dining was the first restaurant for our parent company and the Omakase Counter grew out of that. We will be creating other dining concepts but wagyu will always be the core ingredient.

@JSpec.Wagyu.NYC PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | J-Spec