The Glossary Winter 2018/19 by Neighbourhood Media

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ISSUE SEVEN WINTER 2018/19 £5 WHERE SOLD

YOU R LO N DO N ST YLE GU I D E

The trailblazers shaping

2019 The

Winter I ssue

FEATURING: Charli Howard on BODY POSITIVITY, Keira Knightley on FILMS & FEMINISM Bella Freud on INTERIOR DESIGN, Ollie Dabbous on FOOD Julie Montagu on WELLNESS, Sophie Ellis-Bextor’s LONDON FRONT COVER 7.indd 2

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CONTENTS I

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The Winter Issue

38 DESIGNER OF DREAMS

On the eve of the V&A’s Christian Dior exhibition, curator Oriole Cullen gives us a preview of what to expect

44 FOR THE LOVE OF LEOPARD

Hilary Alexander explores the allure of fashion’s feline-inspired print

46 MASTER PIECE

Behind the scenes at the launch of Patek Philippe’s new Twenty~4 Automatic watch

48 JEWEL PURPOSE

Arts & Culture 13 AGENDA

Dates for your diary this season

18 MODERN COUPLES

A celebration of art, intimacy and the avant-garde at the Barbican

22 KEEPING UP WITH KEIRA

The actress opens up about motherhood, #MeToo and playing a maverick in her latest film

Style

30 FASHION NOTES

The designers and trends on our radar

32 AHEAD OF THE CURVE

Model-turned-body positivity ambassador Charli Howard puts the fashion world to rights

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The dazzling diamond timepieces that define haute horlogerie

51 STAR OF WONDER

Embrace the party season ahead with celestial jewels

Beauty & Wellness 54 BEAUTY NOTES

The latest news and products

58 COLD COMFORT

The latest treatment spaces to open across the capital this Winter

60 GOOD NIGHT?

Why we’re in the grips of an insomnia epidemic - and tips from London’s leading sleep experts

62 SUPER NATURAL

Go-to holistic guru Julie Montagu shares her secrets to health and happiness

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The YOUR LONDON STYLE GUIDE

Food & Drink 66 TASTING NOTES

Where to eat and what to drink

68 HIDE AND SLEEK

The wünderteam behind Hide reveal what’s next for the Michelin-starred Mayfair restaurant

72 RESTAURANT REVIEWS

Food writer Hilary Armstrong finds the best tables in the city

Travel

78 TRAVEL NOTES

Global destinations

80 SNOW PATROL

We take a tour of Chalet N, the most expensive ski retreat in the world

84 HIGH LIFE

Our pick of the most elegant and exclusive Alpine boltholes

Home & Interiors 90 DESIGN NOTES

Inspirations from the world of interiors

92 BELLA DE JOUR

Inside the retro-chic White City penthouse created by fashion icon Bella Freud and design guru Maria Speake

Last Word

96 MY GLOSSARY

Sophie Ellis-Bextor’s little black book of the capital

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HE ENDING OF ONE YEAR AND THE BEGINNING OF ANOTHER IS OFTEN A TIME OF RETROSPECTION, WHEN WE REASSESS AND RESOLVE TO MAKE CHANGES FOR THE MONTHS AHEAD. This issue, we’ve covered myriad ways in which to nourish the mind, body and soul as we head into 2019. The capital is set to buzz with culture this Winter. A highlight has to be Keira Knightley’s portrayal of 20th-century writer and trailblazer Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette in the biopic Colette. On the eve of its release, the actress opens up about motherhood, #MeToo and playing the maverick author (p22). Keira isn’t the only one to light up London over the coming weeks. We hear first hand from V&A curator Oriole Cullen about the new Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams exhibition (p38), which traces the life and times of the French couturier. If you haven’t already booked your ticket, we urge you to do so. Another fashion designer currently talk of the town is Bella Freud, following her recent collaboration with Retrouvius founder Maria Speake to design the interiors of a penthouse at the former BBC Television Centre in White City (p92). Turning our attention to wellbeing, our cover star – the model and body positive activist Charli Howard – shares her thoughts on mental health, happiness and why the fashion industry needs to be more diverse (p32), plus we learn some valuable lessons on living a mindful life from leading yogi and wellness sage Julie Montagu (p62). We also keep track of all the latest beauty openings across the capital (p58), and we tackle the rising issue of insomnia with advice from London’s leading sleep experts (p60). Winter is the ideal opportunity to indulge ourselves - and others. If you’re looking for something extra special to unwrap, make sure to read about Patek Philippe’s new Twenty~4 Automatic (p46). We went to the launch in Milan and, take it from us, though it’s been five years in the making, this timepiece has been worth the wait. For further watch inspiration, we’ve curated the diamond pieces that will add dazzle to any wrist. Talking of time, we’re hoping you’ll be treating yourself to a well-deserved break this wintertide so we’ve compiled the ultimate ski special, bringing you all the best resorts in Europe (p80). Chilled and chic… what more could you want? Enjoy the issue - it’s everything you need to take you through the season and beyond.

THE GLOSSARY

ROSANTICA BY MICHELA PANERO £655, matchesfashion.com

MAISON MARGIELA £405, modaoperandi.com

AQUAZZURA £580, aquazzura.com

ART DIRECTOR & MANAGING DIRECTOR: Ray Searle FINANCE MANAGER: Amanda Clayton Contact us: editorial@theglossarymagazine.com advertising@theglossarymagazine.com production@theglossarymagazine.com accounts@theglossarymagazine.com Published by Neighbourhood Media Limited, 85 Great Portland Street, First Floor, London, W1W 7LT

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CIRE TRUDON £78, trudon.com

© 2018 Neighbourhood Media Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, whether in whole or in part, without written permission. The publishers and editors are not responsible for unsolicited material and it will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication subject to The Glossary magazine’s right to edit.

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CONTRIBUTORS: Hilary Alexander, Sophie Benge, Clare Couslon, Jenny Davis, Charli Howard, Ming Liu, Desiree Mattson, Ali Morris, Emma O'Kelly, Emine Saner

M a ke a s t a t e m e n t w i t h M E TA LLICS t h i s s e a s on

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EDITORIAL & STYLE DIRECTOR: Charlotte Adsett ASSOCIATE EDITOR: Harriet Cooper CONTRIBUTING RESTAURANT EDITOR: Hilary Armstrong CONTRIBUTING FOOD & DRINK EDITOR: Rachel Walker CONTRIBUTING TRAVEL EDITOR: Lizzie Pook

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The GUEST LIST Winter 2018/19

THE MODEL

CHARLI HOWARD

Charli discusses mental health, the fashion industry and social media on page 38 An outspoken body positive activist, since becoming a ‘Curve’ model Charli’s career has rocketed; so too has her happiness. “I have embraced my curves, well and truly; I like the things that make me womanly,” she says. Charli, who shares her story with us, has since written a book, Misfit, about her battles with body image and cofounded the All Woman Project with Clémentine Desseaux, an initiative to celebrate diversity.

THE FILM STAR

KEIRA KNIGHTLEY Keira talks parenting and politics on page 24

When Keira was the tender age of six she got her first agent, and she had appeared in her first film by the age of 10. Fast forward two decades and she is one of Britain’s most recognisable actresses with a string of critically-acclaimed performances, including her latest as author Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette in biopic Colette. “Predominantly, I’ve tried to play strong, interesting women. I want to see characters making mistakes but standing back up again.”

THE FASHION WRITER

CLARE COULSON Clare celebrates the life and work of Christian Dior on page 44

THE WATCH EXPERT

MING LIU

Ming goes behind the scenes at the latest Patek Philippe launch on page 50 As a watch and jewellery writer who contributes regularly to FT How To Spend It, The New York Times and The Wall Street Journal, Ming is a horology connoisseur. So it’s little surprise that one of her icons is the fashion legend Coco Chanel. “From orphan and cabaret singer to the lover of Winston Churchill and the Duke of Westminster, she was the true embodiment of ‘to thine self be true’. It’s no wonder her creativity, style and verve continue to inspire us.”

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Clare was previously fashion features director of Harper’s Bazaar, and she now teaches fashion journalism at Central Saint Martins and writes for the likes of FT How To Spend It, The Telegraph and Observer magazine. In light of the V&A’s upcoming exhibition on Christian Dior, who better to celebrate the couturier’s meteoric rise to fame? “When Dior launched his debut haute couture collection in Paris in 1947, it caused such a stir that even the city’s taxi drivers were discussing the ‘New Look’,” she says. “This show is unmissable.”

THE TASTE MAKER

BELLA FREUD

Bella’s takes us on a design tour on page 100 Bella Freud was born in London and studied in Rome, before launching her eponymous label in 1990 which is renowned for its iconic knitwear and distinctive tailoring. She went on to launch a range of perfume and candles, before collaborating with Maria Speake on the interiors of a penthouse in the Television Centre complex in White City. “It was great to work in a place with so much history and to imagine how I would live there.”

THE RESTAURANT CRITIC

HILARY ARMSTRONG

Hilary reviews London’s hottest Indian restaurants on page 80 Hilary’s love of food was inspired by the Sunday newspaper supplements in the ‘80s and ‘90s: “I loved reading about nouvelle cuisine, Harveys, and the likes of Marco Pierre White and Alastair Little.” Our contributing restaurant editor, who also writes for Telegraph Luxury, Hilary dines at the very best places in London, from Michelinstarred establishments to tiny neighbourhood joints. “My trailblazer is Fay Maschler, restaurant critic of the Evening Standard for over 45 years, for her integrity, her taste and her undimmed thirst for knowledge.”

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Tic ke ts

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V&A South Kensington Opens 2 February 2019 #DiorDesignerofDreams vam.ac.uk Supported by

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THE NUTCRACKER LONDON COLISEUM 13 - 30 DECEMBER No festive season would be complete without a production of Tchaikovskyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s The Nutcracker. This year the English National Ballet travels back to a frost-dusted Edwardian London, where Clara and her enchanted Nutcracker doll embark on dreamlike adventures involving fairies, wicked mice and hot air balloon rides to the Land of Snow. Lavish costumes and deft choreography by Wayne Eagling add to the magic. londoncoliseum.org

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Agenda W H A T ’S O N & W H E R E

H A R R I E T

C O O P E R

Queen Elizabeth II by Cecil Beaton

B y

ASPHODEL MEADOWS/ THE TWO PIGEONS ROYAL OPERA HOUSE

8 JANUARY - 13 FEBRUARY Choreographer and English Ballet founder Frederick Ashton’s Two Pigeons (1961) - a sentimental tale of young love triumphing over misinterpretation and mistakes shares the stage with Royal Ballet Artist in Residence Liam Scarlett’s elegiac ballet Asphodel Meadows (2010). To see them in this mixed programme serves to underline how Ashton’s influence continues to be recognised in contemporary ballet. roh.org.uk

The Photography Centre

Collecting Photography:

MANDELA:

From Daguerreotype to Digital

THE OFFICIAL EXHIBITION LEAKE STREET GALLERY

V&A

It’s hard to imagine how any exhibition could do justice to activist and former president Nelson Mandela. But this show promises to give it a damn good go, with a series of state-of-the-art immersive and interactive exhibits, and unseen film, photos and personal effects, following closely his extraordinary journey from young freedom fighter to being the inspiration and driving force behind the end of South African apartheid. mandelaexhibition.com

The V&A began acquiring photographs in the 1850s and now boasts a collection of some 800,000 images taken by the world’s most influential photographers including Cecil Beaton, Bill Brandt and Martin Parr. So it seems only fitting that the South Kensington museum has opened a new Photography Centre, and that its first major display explores photography as a way “collecting the world”, from the medium’s invention in the 19th-century to the present day.

vam.ac.uk

FROM 8 FEBRUARY

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

FROM TOP: The Artist; The Painter's Daughters; Margaret and Mary Gainsborough

GAINSBOROUGH’S FAMILY ALBUM

NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY UNTIL 3 FEBRUARY

A widely successful 18th-century portraitist, Thomas Gainsborough was much in demand. But he still found time to paint those closest to him and this rare show includes 50 of these deeply personal works. The NPG has pulled off something of a coup bringing together all twelve surviving portraits of Gainsborough’s daughters which, when hung together, trace their development from playful infants to composed young ladies. npg.org.uk

I AM ASHURBANIPAL: KING OF THE WORLD, KING OF ASSYRIA THE BRITISH MUSEUM UNTIL 24 FEBRUARY

King Ashurbanipal of Assyria (r.669 to c.631 BC) was the most powerful man on earth, governing an Empire which stretched from eastern Mediterranean shores to the mountains of western Iran. But who was he? With an extraordinary display of ancient treasures, the British Museum sets out to uncover the man behind the myth: not just a mighty king, but a scholar, diplomat, strategist and... lion hunter, too.

britishmuseum.org

THEATRE

WHEN WE HAVE SUFFICIENTLY TORTURED EACH OTHER NATIONAL THEATRE

16 January – 2 March This is set to be the sought-after ticket for 2019, and not simply because it’s written by avantgarde playwright Martin Crimp and directed by the brilliant Katie Mitchell. The tale of desire and sexual power dynamics - based on the 18th-century novel Pamela by Samuel Richardson - also stars Oscar-winning Cate Blanchett, who will be treading the boards at the NT for the first time. nationaltheatre.org.uk

FOLLIES

NATIONAL THEATRE

From 12 February Winner of the Olivier Award for Best Musical Revival, this 1970s-based musical about a fraught reunion of a group of veteran Broadway showgirls - will grace London’s stages once more, following its standout run in 2017. Directed by Dominic Cooke, the production includes all Stephen Sondheim’s toetapping classics like Broadway Baby, I’m Still Here and Losing My Mind. nationaltheatre.org.uk

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ALL ABOUT EVE NOEL COWARD THEATRE

2 February – 11 May Gillian Anderson and Lily James join forces for Ivo van Hove's new adaptation of the original 1950s film The Wisdom of Eve, which tells the story of aging theatre star Margo Channing (Anderson) and Eve Harrington (James), an ambitious young fan who weedles her way into Margo’s life thereby “lifting the curtain on a world of jealousy and ambition.” delfontmackintosh.co.uk

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LORENZO LOTTO PORTRAITS THE NATIONAL GALLERY UNTIL 10 FEBRUARY

Portraitists flourished during the Renaissance, 16thcentury Venetian painter Lorenzo Lotto among them. His portraits, of mainly clerics, merchants and humanists, were bold in their perception, providing a window into the lives of his middle-class subjects. Like any show, which pulls together works by one artist, this is a fantastic opportunity to fully appreciate Lottoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s individualistic style. nationalgallery.org.uk

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Clockwise from top left: Edition of the Suffragette Newspaper, 1913; A poster advertising the weekly suffragette newspaper Votes for Women 1909; Newspaper headline billboard from Evebing Standard, 1913; Holloway medal presented to Emmeline Pankhurst, 1912 © Museum of London; Postcard with portrait of Louise M. Eates, drawn and signed by Glenn Hinshaw in 1906, © Museum of London

Votes For Women MUSEUM OF LONDON UNTIL 6 JANUARY

In keeping with the nationwide commemorations marking the centenary of the 1918 Representation of the People Act, which gave women the right to vote, this exhibition is dedicated to key figures from the suffragette and suffragist movements. The museum has delved deep into its archives to display iconic objects such as Emmeline Pankhurst’s hunger strike medal, while a powerful film highlights key milestones in the campaign for female suffrage, and considers the legacy of that struggle and its contemporary relevance. museumoflondon.org.uk

Anni Albers

TATE MODERN UNTIL 27 JANUARY

When Anni Albers arrived at the Bauhaus art school in 1922 she was forced to enrol in the weaving department, then deemed more ‘suitable’ for women. She had the last laugh by going on to become the most influential textile artist of the 20th-century and a source of inspiration to everyone from her teacher Paul Klee to her husband, Josef Albers. From ‘pictorial weavings’ to large wall-hangings, this is a riveting look at Anni’s pivotal contribution to modern art and design.

tate.org.uk Left: Anni Albers in her weaving studio at Black Mountain College,1937. Above: Anni Albers, Knot 1947, Gouache on paper, 43.2 × 51 cm, The Josef and Anni Albers Foundation, Bethany CT © 2018 The Josef and Anni Albers Foundation/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York/DACS, London

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

MODERN COUPLES: Leonora Carrington, Bird Superior Portrait of Max Ernst, National Galleries of Scotland.© The Estate of Leonora Carrington

Dorothea Tanning and Max Ernst with his sculpture, Capricorn, 1947 © John Kasnetsis

Camille Claudel, Portraid de Rodin, 1888, 1889, Courtesy of Musée RodinChicago

Frida Kahlo, Le Venadita (little deer), 1946, Photo Nathan Keay, © MCA Chicago

ART, INTIMACY AND THE AVANT-GARDE BARBICAN

George Platt Lynes, James Leslie Daniels, c.1937, Courtesy of Beth Rudin DeWoody

Until 27 January

n her ‘An Artist’s Life Manifesto’ Serbian performance artist Marina Abramoviććdeclares that “An artist should avoid falling in love with another artist”. So vehemently does she believe it, she repeats it thrice. Goodness knows what she’d make of the Barbican’s Modern Couples, which illuminates the intimate, often unconventional, relationships between some of Modern Art’s most famous names, across painting, sculpture, photography, design and literature.

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Drawing on loans from public and private collections, the interdisciplinary show - part of the Barbican Centre’s The Art of Change, a yearlong season that explores the relationship between art, society and politics - also features a wealth of personal photographs, original love letters, gifts and rare archive material, all of which give a fascinating glimpse into 40 personal and creative encounters. Carefully choreographed as a journey through a series of rooms dedicated to different couples, exhibition highlights include such legendary pairings as Auguste Rodin and Camille Claudel, whose decadelong relationship inspired some of the French sculptor’s most passionate work. The tempestuous marriage of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo also comes under scrutiny and the inclusion in the show of

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LEFT: Federico Garcia Lorca and Salvador Dali in Cadaques

Man Ray, Man Ray endormi, c.1930, Courtesy of Centre Pompidou, Paris

Kahlo’s rarely-seen painting The Wounded Deer (1946) alludes not only to the physical trauma she endured following failed spinal surgery but also, it is believed, to the fragility of her relationship with her husband. Lee Miller and Man Ray’s intense and furious love may have had an unhappy ending, but for three years they made the darkroom and studio a place of shared photographic and erotic experiment, evident in the body of work on display. Also not to be missed is the original manuscript of Virginia Woolf ’s landmark novel Orlando: A Biography (1928), which constructs the protagonist as the fictional embodiment of Woolf ’s close friend and lover Vita Sackville-West. Modern Couples also showcases lesserknown, but no less fascinating, affiliations including those between Expressionist dancers Lavinia Schulz and Walter Holdt; painter Gustav Klimt and his companion and muse, the Viennese fashion designer Emilie Flöge; and photographer Claude Cahun and illustrator Marcel Moore, partners in love and art for over 40 years. No creative duo has gone unexplored in this compelling - and, at times, challenging - study of how the work of individual artists has been shaped by their relationships obsessional, conventional, mythic, platonic, fleeting, life-long or otherwise. barbican.org.uk

Tamara De Lempicka, Les Deux Amies, 1923, Association des Amis du Petit Palais, Geneve

A. Rodchenko and V. Stepanova descending from the airplane. (for the film The General Line by Sergei Eisenstein), 1926. Courtesy Rodchenko and Stepanova Archives, Moscow

Dora Maar, Picasso en Minotaure, Mougins, 1937, Paris, Centre Pompidou

George Platt Lynes, Paul Cadmus and Jared French, 1937, Courtesy of Guggenheim Museum, New York

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Pablo Picasso, Portrait de femme,1938, Courtesy of Centre Pompidou, Paris

A R T S & C U LT U R E

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Interview

Keeping

with

No stranger to speaking her mind, actress Keira Knightley opens up on everything from parenting and politics to playing a female pioneer in her new film Colette Words JENNY DAVIS

t’s hard to believe Keira Knightley is just 33 years old, so established in the film landscape does she feel. Knightley famously got herself an agent at the age of six, and had been in her first film by the time she was 10. It feels as if she has been running on fast-forward ever since. There have been Hollywood smashes – see her recurring role in the Pirates of the Caribbean blockbusters – and acclaimed indies, such as Atonement and The Imitation Game. She has notched up two Oscar nominations, and looks more comfortable than anyone else in a corset. Her latest film, Colette, is another period piece, but with very familiar resonances for our modern post-#MeToo and Time’s Up world – Knightley plays the trailblazing Belle Époch novelist Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette, whose work was claimed by her husband as his own. It seems suited to Knightley, who was describing herself as a feminist back when it was an unfashionable word. The actress, who is also a long-standing ambassador for Chanel, has refused to be Photoshopped, and has called for more female representation behind the camera and equal pay. “Where are the female stories?” she has asked. “Where are the directors, where are the writers?” In a recent essay, Knightley, who has a daughter with her husband, the musician James Righton, wrote powerfully about her experience of childbirth and the pressures faced by mothers.

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If there is a common thread that runs through Knightley’s work, ever since she shone as a teenage footballer in Bend it Like Beckham, it’s in playing resilient, flawed, sometimes vulnerable but always interesting women. Off-screen Knightley has faced her own challenges – she recently spoke about the post-traumatic stress disorder she suffered in her early twenties, partly triggered by her sudden fame and the near-constant, and often aggressive, presence of the paparazzi. She is less interesting to the tabloids these days – it’s partly to do with her low-key home life, and her more artistic choice of roles – and she must prefer it this way. But for the rest of us, confident, considered and increasingly willing to speak out, Knightley just gets more and more intriguing.

Talk us through Colette’s relationship with her husband Willy... To respect her, you have to understand why the relationship worked and, essentially, why it was the best thing that she left him. It was really important that Willy’s sense of humour and charisma - you know, that you can be laughed into bed - is in the film and that he wasn’t just portrayed as this domineering character. Because, actually, in all the writing about him, his charm and wit comes through hugely. And my god, Dominic [West, who plays Willy] is good. In person, he’s so charming. He’s the only person I’ve ever met who I think if he actually killed somebody in front of you, he’d get away with it.

What excited you about playing Colette? I think she’s fascinating. I instantly connected to this story, partly because of her husband Willy taking credit for her work and Colette being silenced because somebody else was literally stealing her words. I thought that was very relevant. But, also, it’s the story of a woman finding her voice and her true self, and allowing herself to live courageously in the way that she wants. I stood very tall when I played her. She was a maverick and that’s always exciting.

“They say it takes a village to raise a child, and it does; and it takes a village to keep a woman at work as well” 24

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super lucky, I can afford childcare. I have a wonderful nanny and my mum, whenever my husband can’t be there, has flown to wherever we are. They say it takes a village to raise a child, and it does; and it takes a village to keep a woman at work as well. What kind of roles do you look for? Predominantly, I’ve tried to play strong, interesting, well-rounded women. I think if there’s something – apart from corsets – that joins my career together then hopefully it’s that, with the occasional money gig thrown in as well. I look for

Keira Knightley in scenes from Colette

Have you ever felt that other people have taken credit for your success? I’m always happy to say that any film or performance has been the product of a wonderful collaboration. But yes, there have been times where I’ve put an idea out there and nobody’s listened, and then five seconds later a guy’s put the same idea out there and everyone’s gone, ‘Wow, great idea!’ I mean, that happens to women all over the world. I think people are constantly looking for the Svengali, you know the actress as the muse and the director as the person that creates them. I’ve always felt a bit funny about that because I think it’s a conversation, it’s not about one person controlling another.

safety in the workplace, as well. There is a hunger right now for strong, female voices. And we just need to make sure that it’s not a flash in the pan. We need to actually make sure that it’s proper, proper change. Do you think you’ve worn the last corset of your career? Ultimately I’m always going to go for the best character, whether I’m in a long dress or a short one; though I’ve found various ways now of getting round actually wearing a corset - you can bone the inside of a dress, which means you don’t actually need it at all. Colette was always described as being quite boyish, so I wore waistcoats and shirts. The costumes were actually all original. The sweat, the stains... we were literally standing in a piece of history.

“There is a hunger right now for strong, female voices. We just need to make sure that it’s not a flash in the pan. We need to actually make sure that it’s proper, proper change”

How do you balance your work and family commitments? It’s hard. I’ve got a three-year-old, Edie, who is magnificent. She’s also a lot of work. We actually delayed shooting Colette by a year. Originally we were going to do it when Edie was one, but sleeping isn’t something she’s fond of and I realised I couldn’t play a character of this size. So we waited until she was two and she still didn’t sleep, but I was a bit more used to it by then! My husband James has been amazing. He’s largely put his life on hold to make sure that I’m still at work and we’re keeping together as a family unit. I’m

women who in some way I recognise, I want to see my friends up on screen. My friends who are not saints, but who are complex, strange, wonderful women. I want to see characters making mistakes but standing back up again. It’s always the slightly more morally ambiguous women I find interesting.

Have the #MeToo and ‘Time’s Up’ movements changed the industry? I would say that the conversation is a massive start, the fact that we’re saying, ‘Yes we need more female voices, we need more female directors, we need this point of view’. And obviously we need

Period pieces can be known as a safer kind of genre, but lately they’ve been more radicalising… I also think there’s a negativity around them because they are predominantly female. I think there’s an attitude of ‘Oh that’s not serious enough’ and, actually, I think it’s interesting that, for me, the strongest characters I’ve found have been in period roles. It’s kind of resurrecting the dead, in a funny way, doing a period film.I find my imagination just goes wild saying, ‘Let’s bring them back, this is amazing’.

Who helped you find your voice as an actress? This is really corny, but my mother. My mum wrote a play called When I Was A Girl, I Used To Scream And Shout and the money she made meant she could have another baby – me. She’s always said, ‘Live your life like the title of that play. Scream and shout until people hear you.’ And I continue to scream and shout to say, ‘I am here and I have ideas. I want to work and I want to get better.’ Keira Knightley is the face of Coco Mademoiselle Intense Eau de Parfum; chanel.com Colette is due for release in January 2019

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C R E AT I N G C H A N G E . I S L A N D B Y I S L A N D . S U N G L A S S E S M A D E F R O M O C E A N P L A S T I C Â® C L E A N W AV E S . C O M

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STYLE The

Dream Team

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Burberry and Vivienne Westwood’s highly-anticipated collaboration, is finally available to buy. The two iconic brands have designed a limitededition collection from archive pieces that combine Vivienne’s punk aesthetic with Burberry’s vintage check. Co-designed by Vivienne’s husband and design partner Andreas Kronthaler (pictured left) and Burberry creative director Riccardo Tisci (pictured right) who unveiled his debut collection for the heritage brand in September, the capsule range supports Cool Earth, a UK based non-profit organisation that works alongside rainforest communities to halt deforestation and climate change. burberry.com

31/12/2018 17:23

Fashion Notes A new heel shape, shopping goes virtual and Givenchy’s inaugural store opening in Mayfair Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

Dark Reign

BOX OF TRICKS

New-bag-label-to-know Montunas offers distinctive boxy bucket shapes crafted from acetate with silk pouches inspired by lush flora, hanging planters and pots from Montunas Orchid House in Costa Rica where the founder Elke Ruges grew up. The Lirio resin bag, £325

net-a-porter.com

For the #GucciGothic Cruise 2019 collection, the Italian fashion label has created a surreal interpretation on the legend of Noah’s Ark. Imagined by creative director Alessandro Michele and captured by photographer and longtime collaborator Glen Luchford, the images take us way back to biblical times and depict a rural community where animals and people coexist in harmony. Building on Gucci’s signature fascination with both the natural and mythological worlds, the agricultural landscapes and dramatic weather emphasises the almighty power of nature.

gucci.com

WELL HEELED

Amina Muaddi is one of the most buzzed new brands of the season. e debut collection from the Middle Eastern shoe designer’s eponymous label features architectural silhouettes with a trademark fluted geometric stiletto heel.

Ami pumps £400

brownsfashion.com

New Opening

STRIDING AHEAD Givenchy’s first London flagship store marks the end of a stellar year for the French fashion house. In May, Artistic Director Clare Waight Keller designed the Dutchess of Sussex’s wedding dress, and recently won British Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards. The new store mixes grand period features with pastel tiled rooms, a glossy red staircase and floor-to-ceiling mirrors for a unique and luxurious shopping experience. 165 New Bond Street. Mayfair, W1

givenchy.com

Mirror Mirror

Online fashion retailer Yoox has launched a new virtual styling suite, YooxMirror, which uses artificial intelligence to allow customers to mix and match 250 new pieces a week and instantly share their look on social media. Avatar Daisy (pictured above) is one of the 3-D models that will bring outfits to life against immersive backdrops.

yoox.com

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STYLE

Wool jacket, £1,150

CHECK

MATE

BURBERRY X VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

Wool jacket, £1,250

The limited-edition capsule is inspired by Westwood’s iconic designs, from her mini kilts to lace-up platforms and berets, all reimagined in Burberry’s vintage check. burberry.com

Patent platforms, £750

Wool beret, £250

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

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31/12/2018 21:11

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STYLE

AHEAD of the CURVE

Being sacked by her modelling agency was just the beginning for Charli Howard. Now an outspoken body positive activist, her career rocketed, and so did her happiness. Here she talks diversity, mental health and why the fashion industry still has a lot to learn Words EMINE SANER Photography DESIREE MATTSSON

f you’d told me a few years ago that I would look – and weigh – the way I do now, I would have had a heart attack. I was so obsessed with not becoming “fat” that I would do everything in my power to rid any form of femininity I possessed. Curves, I thought, were something to be ashamed of. I can’t believe how far I’ve come. I spent almost 20 years of my life worrying daily about my weight – nit-picking all my flaws, believing my body to be grotesque, and feeling utterly convinced with every fibre of my being that I was morbidly obese. My longing to be thin took over my life. Before I was 11, I’d never paid much attention to my body. A comment from a friend probably marked the start of my battles with myself – she said she wished she wasn’t “fat”, and that I was lucky because I was “thin”. I didn’t know being thin was enviable. But being called thin made me feel special. Being complimented on my size was a brandnew feeling – and for the first time in a while I felt happy. It made me feel proud. I soon discovered I could plough my anxieties about fitting in and being lonely into controlling what I put in my mouth. At boarding school, and homesick, I would binge on junk food. Plagued by anxiety, stress and self-loathing, I started making myself sick. As a 16-year-old, I was obsessed with being thin. I would look at pictures of supermodels in their underwear and they were so skinny, their hip bones jutted out. I thought they were beautiful. As far as I was concerned, “happiness” meant being “thin”, and being thin was achieved by watching everything you ate.

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

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“I’m excited by how diverse the fashion industry is becoming. Curve models have appeared on runways and magazine covers; now our body shapes are everywhere”

y the time I was 20, I had developed anorexia and bulimia. Eating disorders are complex mental illnesses, and it is too simple to blame fashion magazines, but I was definitely influenced by what I was seeing – I was a teenager in the noughties, at the height of the size 0 trend. As seasons went on, the girls got thinner and thinner, and size 00 became popular. When skinny, white women are the only women you see represented in the things you see and read, why wouldn’t you believe that is the ideal? I dreamt of becoming a model. I truly believed it would make my life better. It would mean I was beautiful. It would mean my body was perfect. The people who had ever doubted me or bullied me or called me “weird” would suddenly want to be my friend. Finally, I’d have a chance of becoming those girls in magazines I’d aspired to be and live the lives they had. In fact – surprise, surprise – my anorexia and bulimia were exacerbated by modelling. Agencies kept scouting me on the street as a teenager, only to later tell me that I’d be “perfect” if it wasn’t for my hips. They’d tell me to lose weight, and to come back when I’d lost it. When I did get signed by an agency, it was on the understanding that I would get my hip span down from 37 inches to 35, or ideally 34. Getting signed to a modelling agency was supposed to change my life, to make up for the years of insecurities and body image issues, and the feeling that I never truly belonged. I was meant to be perfect, yet I didn’t feel perfect in the slightest. For the next few years, I was told to “tone up” – a euphemism for “lose weight”. Once, I was told to only eat vegetables for breakfast, lunch and dinner. I would obsessively exercise, and even though I had no energy from lack of food, I ran until my legs turned to jelly and my head pounded. On one shoot in Paris, I almost fainted. I hadn’t eaten properly since lunchtime the day before, unless you count two squares of dark chocolate “dinner”. The photographer ran over to me and held me up by the arms while the make-up artist fetched me water. “Are you OK?” he asked, fanning me with his hands. I smiled meekly, sipping water. “You look great, though,” he said, showing me the screen of the camera. For the first time ever, my chest and collar bones were prominent. Even so, after one job, where I couldn’t fit into a pair of tiny leather trousers, one booker said “You have to lose the inches. This is ridiculous. It’s like you don’t care.” And then the agency dropped me. I was a size 6. I’d never been thinner. To a doctor, I would be underweight. But instead of being devastated I was angry. I wrote a Facebook post on the Tube on the way home. “I will no longer allow you to dictate to me what’s wrong with my looks and what I need to change in order to be ‘beautiful’,” I wrote, addressing the agency but also everyone who had ever made me feel fat or worthless. “I refuse to feel ashamed and upset on a daily basis for not meeting your ridiculous, unattainable beauty standards. My mental and physical health is of more importance than a number on a scale, however much you wish to emphasise this.” The post went viral and two days later Muse, an agency in New York contacted me and offered me a contract. They never asked me to lose weight or become more toned – they like me as I am. Months later, having moved to New York, I watched intently as the fashion industry began taking notice of curvier girls. They were landing bigger campaigns and magazine editorials. I was getting better, and had started seeing a therapist specialising in cognitive behavioural therapy to try and make sense of what I’ve been through and why. I was eating more and I’d found my body’s natural, healthy shape.

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“I tried to change to fit someone else’s idea of beauty, which is 20 years of my life that I will never get back. Chasing perfection did not make me happy; no matter how much weight I lost, I never reached the happiness I wished for. Losing weight does not equal happiness, and I’m proud to no longer contribute to an industry that makes girls feel that way"

lthough I’m now considered a “plus-size” model in the fashion industry, I find that concept quite peculiar – it makes us sound like we’re an oddity, when most women have cellulite or curves in some way. Plus-size in an industry term, that's not something I've given myself. I’m smaller than most plussize models – I’m not built that way; I’m also never going to be super skinny. Fashion has been very binary, with only space for the very thin standard models, or larger curve girls. In the 90s, the supermodels had sexy, healthy bodies. They were what, a size 10? Do you think a size 10 model would get that level of work now? My body didn’t seem to fit in either of the markets but the industry is changing and I’ve been able to represent the girls in the middle, even though I’m still one of only a handful of people trying to show that you can model at this natural size. If I’d seen girls with my shape when I was growing up, in magazines or on TV, my outlook on my body would have been so different. I set up the All Woman Project with Clémentine Desseaux, another curve model, to celebrate body positivity, diversity, create beautiful images and collaborate with forward-thinking brands. I want the industry to learn from what women and girls like me have been lacking: fair representation. Until then, I’m going to keep fighting for the girls with similar shapes to mine to make sure we’re all

featured in magazines and in campaigns, because all female bodies are beautiful. I’m so excited by how diverse the fashion industry is becoming. Curve models have appeared on runways and magazine covers; I couldn’t imagine that happening just a few years ago. Now our body shapes are everywhere. The industry has changed so much in such little time and it’s been exciting to watch it grow. I really feel we’re going back to a time where fashion caters to us as women, not the other way round. Having boobs and a bum shouldn’t make you less worthy of fashion. Social media has had a huge impact. Forget being drip-fed the same white, skinny body type over and over – thanks to Instagram, we now have the ability to choose the models we want to see, directly in the palm of our hands. For someone who tried desperately hard to emulate the size 0 models and celebrities of the early noughties, Instagram feels like the change people like me, and society, desperately needed – a chance to see real women represented. To see that things like cellulite, stretch marks and tummy rolls are beautiful. I choose positivity, following women who make me feel good on the inside, and who have more to offer than just their appearance. When women come together and put ourselves unashamedly out there, we can create change. Social media has given us a voice, and judging by the diversity we’re starting to see each season, fashion appears to be recognising the importance of representation. The industry needs to stop

using the same tall, skinny white girls as a way of selling fashion. That’s not exciting. It certainly doesn’t reflect the general public, or account for the vast amount of beauty in the world. Models like Winnie Harlow and Ashley Graham are killing it right now, so why are agencies not representing more non-white or curvaceous models? Designers, magazines and model agencies have no option but to listen and cater to us, the consumer, rather than us having to change for them. I tried to change to fit someone else’s idea of beauty, which is 20 years of my life that I will never get back. Chasing perfection did not make me happy; no matter how much weight I lost, I never reached the happiness I wished for. Losing weight does not equal happiness, and I’m proud to no longer contribute to an industry that makes girls feel that way. Speaking out changed my life and career – when you believe in yourself people are more likely to believe you, and when you have your own image and your own vision, clients can see exactly what they’re getting, which is not just a mannequin. I have gained a few pounds, but I’ve gained some other things, too, including a massive dose of self-respect. I have embraced my curves, well and truly; I like the things that make me womanly. My body doesn’t disgust me anymore. I love it. Extracts from Misfit by Charli Howard (Penguin, £12.99). The paperback edition is released on 3 January 2019. allwomxnproject.org

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Christian Dior with model Lucky, circa 1955 Courtesy of Christian Dior

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STYLE

DESIGNER Of DR MS This Spring, the V&A is set to host the largest ever Christian Dior exhibition in the UK. The show’s curator Oriole Cullen gives us an insight into the life and work of one of the 20th-century’s most influential couturiers Words CLARE COULSON

hen Christian Dior launched his debut haute couture collection in Paris in 1947, it was a lightning bolt of glamour, luxury and femininity after the misery and hardship of the Second World War and the period of austerity that followed it. The wasp-waisted jackets and romantic skirts, which used up to 40 yards of fabric, caused such a stir that even the city’s taxi drivers were discussing the ‘New Look’. It was a breath of fresh air for women deprived of beauty, and a serious reboot for the fashion industry, but for many such opulence was also considered wasteful and incendiary at a time when women wore meagre suits and were still having to make do and mend. In Britain the head of the Board of Trade advised journalists not to report on it. But for stores, who would translate the look for the masses, the floodgates were already open. This Spring the house’s intriguing seven decade history is celebrated in Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams at the Victoria & Albert Museum. For Oriole Cullen, the museum’s Head of Fashion and Textiles and the exhibition’s curator, Dior’s debut laid the foundations for a house closely associated with glamour and femininity: “For people who had lived through the war, the New Look was like a palimpsest – it was starting again, it was something new, fresh and a totally different way of dressing. It was such a statement and it remains the couture dream for many, many people.”

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

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Christian Dior with model Sylvie, circa 1948 Courtesy of Christian Dior

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STYLE Originally staged last year at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris and reimagined for the V&A, the exhibition features 200 pieces of haute couture as well as hundreds of the accessories, perfumes and cosmetics that have made Dior one of the biggest luxury fashion houses in the world. For Cullen, one of the most intriguing themes, which is at the heart of an entirely new section of the show, is Christian Dior’s love of England. He originally came to London, aged 21, to perfect his English before taking up his army conscription. “In his autobiography he talks about the sense of freedom that he felt here. Coming from a very bourgeois, respectable French background to be set free in London in the 1920s was obviously quite a revelation to him,” says Cullen. “The idea of being eccentric and being individual is tolerated much more in British society. He was also a romantic and he loved the idea of royalty and aristocracy.” Once he launched his house, his admiration for all things English continued. Dior was amongst the couturiers Princess Margaret visited on her first tour of Europe in 1949 and the only one that she requested sketches from. When Dior staged his first London show at the Savoy a year later (an event so oversubscribed that three successive shows were held) the Princess was given a private viewing the morning after, known as The Secret Fashion Show. “For Dior,” adds Cullen, “Princess Margaret is really the ultimate client. Not only is she a princess but she also has a perfect figure for his clothing.” The wildly romantic layered tulle dress Dior subsequently created for the Princess’ 21st birthday is one of the most impressive pieces in the show. But, perhaps, even more intriguing is the way in which Dior brought a taste of Paris couture to hotels, stores and private houses across the UK with a series of shows, often for charity, that anyone could buy a ticket to. These events, at country houses including Melbourne Hall in Derbyshire and Hever

Yves Saint Laurent in front of Christian Dior London, 11th November 1958 © Popperfoto/Getty Images

Princess Margaret (1930-2002), photo Cecil Beaton (1904-80), London, UK, 1951. © Cecil Beaton, Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Princess Margaret (left), with the Duchess of Marlborough behind, presents Christian Dior with a scroll entitling him to Honorary Life Membership of the British Red Cross after the presentation of his Winter Collection at Blenheim Palace on 3rd November 1954 © Popperfoto / Getty Images

Castle in Kent, showcased the latest designs from Paris, which would be a mix of couture and ready to wear. This sudden accessibility to the designer’s collection could lead to calamitous social faux pas, too – at a ball at Wilton House, Wiltshire in 1955, several women turned up in the same Dior dress. It was impossible for the house to keep track of ready-to-wear sales. In 1952, Dior sealed his burgeoning UK business by opening Dior London in the 18th-century townhouse that is now occupied by the restaurant Sketch. Dior wasn’t the first couturier to build a global brand but, says Cullen, he always had his eye on a very global business. When Dior died suddenly in 1957 there was an outpouring of grief and panic that his house could survive. Yet his six subsequent artistic directors have all had a hand in steering the brand’s trajectory.

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

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There were radicals such as Yves Saint Laurent, who had already been working alongside Dior for five years when he took over the house aged just 21 and who instantly ushered in a more youthful way of dressing that ultimately, just two years later, proved too much for Dior’s owners who fired him. And more recently Raf Simons – whose minimalism pushed the creativity of the ateliers. Others, such as Marc Bohan (who headed up the house for 29 years after Saint Laurent) and current artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri, have been firmly focused on making wearable, stylish clothes that sing to Dior’s faithful customers. Both Gianfranco Ferre – in the early 90s - and John Galliano (who took over in 1996) ramped up the romance and theatre, recalling the dramatic, fairytale gowns that Dior had originally created. “Although we focus on Christian Dior himself, the show is not about just one designer but a number of really phenomenal people who have worked there and been given a free rein in this incredible atelier,” Cullen concludes. “That’s what’s at the heart of Dior - the ateliers. And this show is quite unique in that it’s all haute couture, with all the garments made by hand. And seeing them up close is extraordinary.” Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams Victoria & Albert Museum Opens on 2 February 2019 vam.ac.uk

30/12/2018 22:07

EMILIOPUCCI.COM

EMILIOPUCCI.COM EMILIO PUCCI SP.indd 2

01/08/2018 19:52

STYLE

C’est CHIC CULT BUT CLASSIC – THE WARDROBE STAPLES THAT NEVER GO OUT OF STYLE Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP MIDDLE: DIOR Oblique Monogram Book Tote bag, £1,950, dior.com; HERMES Toute En Carre silk scarf, £640, hermes.com SAINT LAURENT Metal and enamel brooch, £300, ysl.com; THE VAMPIRES WIFE The Butterfly dress, £1,455, thevampireswife.com; EMILIO PUCCI Guanadana tasselled stole, £190, emiliopucci.com GLOBE-TROTTER X GUCCI Suitcase, £POA, globe-trotter.com; GUCCI Striped canvas and leather belt, £270, gucci.com; ILLESTEVA Marianne cat-eye sunglasses, £170, net-a-porter.com SAINT LAURENT Pierre star-embellished leather boots, £1,300, brownsfashion.com; CELINE Medium 16 bag in grained calfskin, £2,950, celine.com; SMYTHSON Panama leather notebook, £45, smythson.com MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Wool-Melton trench coat, £2,530, michaelkors.com; AQUAZZURA Versailles Bow Glitter ballet flats, £505, modaoperandi.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

Trend

FOR THE

Love of

LEOPARD From haute couture to Hollywood, leopard spots have always made a powerful statement. Hilary Alexander explores the enduring allure of fashion’s feline-inspired print

s fashion director at The Telegraph for many years, I sat front row in London, New York, Paris and Milan and saw all the major catwalk shows. Trends come and trends go but there’s one that has withstood the test of time, and that’s leopard-print. At once bold and neutral, fierce and feminine, flashy and luxurious, the iconic spots sit firmly within the style lexicon. The leopard has, of course, entranced for thousands of years. Marchesa Luisa Casati, the Belle Époque’s ‘fashion princess’, had leopards as pets, and was reportedly buried in leopard-print. After her death, in the early years of the twentieth-century, Paris couturiers such as Jeanne Paquin and Jean-Charles Worth made much use of leopard fur and leopard-print. It wasn’t until Christian Dior used the spot in his 1947 ‘New Look’ collection, inspired by his muse Mitzah Bricard who wore a leopard-print scarf around her wrist, that it hit the mainstream. Pierre Balmain followed in the 1950s, and a young Yves Saint Laurent astounded Paris in 1967 with his ‘Africa’ collection. Diane von Furstenberg launched a leopard-print wrap dress in 1973, which continues to sell out to this day, and declared: “Isn’t every woman’s dream to be a feline?” There is scarcely a designer who hasn’t gone wild since. Alexander McQueen memorably captured the mood of girls on the prowl in his 1997/98 ready-to-wear show for Givenchy in Paris fittingly titled ‘It’s a Jungle Out There’, when supermodels stalked the cobbles of an ancient market in the Marais district

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RODARTE AW18

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02/01/2019 13:22

TOM FORD AW18

STYLE

who have long championed the message, mean fake is now fashion’s best weapon – and leopard its finest example. A host of major international designers have recently pledged to become fur-free - including Gucci, Michael Kors, Giorgio Armani. In the words of Donatella Versace, who wrote the foreword to Leopard: “Why do we love leopard-print? So we can feel closer to something that is breathtakingly beautiful, graceful and precious… and just a little bit dangerous”. With leopard spots dominating the SS19 runway - Burberry’s new creative director Riccardo Tisci used them in his debut collection, as did many designers including Tom Ford, Versace, JW Anderson, Dolce & Gabbana and Saint Laurent - it looks like this most wearable of animal prints is here to stay.

print, it also highlights its problematic past. Hunted, sacrificed, worshipped and worn; painted and paraded as a totem; enlisted as military regalia; and exploited as an exotic pet, this mighty cat is now endangered in many countries and extinct in others. Thankfully increasing conservation efforts, along with brands such as Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood

This is an edited extract from ‘LEOPARD Fashion’s Most Powerful Print’ by Hilary Alexander (Laurence King Publishing, £16.99).

VERSACE SS18

DEBBIE HARRY, 1979

SHIELA ROCK, REX

in leopard-print clothing and boots. While John Galliano’s haute couture Egyptian extravaganza for Dior in January 2004 was an epic of Cecil B. DeMille proportions, with models as fantastical NefertitiHatshepsut hybrids. The big cat doesn’t just prowl the runway. Leopardprint has been ubiquitous amongst tastemakers and influencers ever since the inimitable Diana Vreeland introduced animal prints to the fashion world, saying, “I’ve never met a leopard-print I didn’t like”. Anna Wintour, Editor-in-Chief of American Vogue, continues to stalk the fashion pantheon as front-row queen, reigning supreme, while the rest of the style set confirm this hero print is going nowhere. The leopard also links fashion royalty to screen queens and first ladies: Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Grace of Monaco, Elizabeth Taylor and Jackie Kennedy Onassis have all worn leopard-skin coats. Jackie’s favourite designer, Oleg Cassini, was so horrified by the leopard-skin mania that he began using man-made fibres to produce fake fur. Indeed, while my book celebrates the perennial appeal of leopard-

“I’ve never met a leopard-print I didn’t like” DIANA VREELAND (1903–1989), FASHION EDITOR

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG Wrap dress, £635, matchesfashion.com

The Capsule Edit

MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Bancroft bag, £1,550, michaelkors.com

JENNIFER CHAMANDI Vittorio pumps, £580, net-a-porter.com

SAINT LAURENT Joplin boots, £1,470, ysl.com GANNI Wrap dress, £210, ganni.com

JOIE Faux-fur coat, £435, harveynichols.com

No21 Silk skirt, £625, farfetch.com

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02/01/2019 13:22

Watch Focus

MASTER PIECE It’s been five years in the making, but Patek Philippe’s new Twenty~4 Automatic – designed with the modern, multi-faceted woman in mind – has been worth the wait Words MING LIU

ampering with an icon is risky business. The pressure to make an impact is everpresent, yet hovering over every potential change is the maxim “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” - not to mention the years of history to honour and respect. Such concerns, however, did not seem to phase Patek Philippe when it recently unveiled a groundbreaking new version of the Twenty~4 – a watch that, when it first debuted in 1999, became an instant classic and remains one of the most recognised ladies watches in the world to this day.

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STYLE

The Twenty~4 Automatic is the Twenty~4 collection’s first with a selfwinding mechanical movement set in a round case, which completely rips up the existing Twenty~4 playbook (with its quartz heart and bold rectangular case). But Patek Philippe is never one to rest on its laurels and as president Thierry Stern explained to us at the glittering launch event in Milan: “Today it’s time to evolve. We decided that women should have their own watches – not a gimmick, not something that looks like a man’s watch.” Stern was addressing an audience of some 300 guests from around the world, all of whom had no idea what was to come. In true Patek Philippe fashion, details of the new Twenty~4 Automatic had been kept top secret – which was pretty impressive considering the timepiece took five years and some 40 prototypes to get right. Even the location - the majestic Palazzo Serbelloni, which regularly features on the Milan Fashion Week circuit – was not revealed until that very evening. Upon arrival, the buzz was palpable. A glass greenhouse had been custom-built in the palazzo’s centre, where guests snapped selfies against the foliage-filled photo wall and booth, the hashtag #twenty4automatic hinting at the innovation ahead. Alongside an exhibition of vintage watches from the Patek Philippe museum, a raft of performers entertained the glamorous throng throughout the evening, including a magnificent dance troupe working a stage the length of the room, while a group of illustrators, Japanese artist M. Ohgushi among them, painted guests’ portraits. All this to celebrate a watch that, Mr Stern later emphasised, is not entirely new but part of a wellestablished line. “Why should I do something totally new when the design we had for the Twenty~4 was beautiful?” he asked. “This was the most difficult part – to imagine something new and adapt it to what is working today.” His wife and head of creation, Sandrine Stern, elaborated that the real challenge was creating a watch that remained contemporary and elegant over time. “When designing watches for a 21stcentury woman, we need to focus on the perfect aesthetic, comfort of wear,

timepieces at the launch were full of wonder and awe – the Twenty~4 Automatic being such a departure from its rectangular predecessor. On the wrist, it is truly beautiful and pertinently feminine, with its casual, everyday glamour and dazzling diamond bezel. The steel models, with blue or grey sunburst dials, have a bold and sportif look, while modern elegance oozes from the rose gold designs with their divine, linen-like satin finish silvery dials set with gold applied, luminescent-coated numerals. But the real showstopper is the 7300/1201R-001, thanks to almost 500 diamonds encrusted on the crown, lugs and bezel, not to mention on every link of the patented bracelet. The new Twenty~4 Automatic may look completely different, but the ethos behind it remains the same as the 1999 original. Back then, the aim was to reach a younger, active female audience, exactly the kind of client the Twenty~4 Automatic will attract once more - the sophisticated, adventurous, decisionmaking, technologically savvy yet horologically-inclined, modern woman. It’s a 24-hour watch that will seamlessly - and chicly - go from boardroom to ski slope to family-time – or in Mrs Stern’s own words: “A watch that will live her life, with style!”

“When designing watches for a 21st-century woman, we need to focus on the perfect aesthetic, comfort of wear, elegance and good readability” elegance and good readability combined with technical perfection,” she explained. The answer was the 7300 collection, comprising five 36mm watches, in either steel or rose gold, with a double-row diamond bezel. Powering the watch is Patek Philippe’s existing calibre 324 S C, complete with the ultra precise Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar – “the perfect movement in terms of size and reliability for active daily wear” Mrs Stern added – and adapted to a ladies size. It’s a well-designed and well-thoughtout range, and guests trying on the new

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patek.com

30/12/2018 22:39

Watch Focus

J ewel

PURPOSE Add some sparkle to your wrist with these dazzling timepieces Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

CHANEL Ruban Motif, Â£62,800; chanel.com

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DIAMONDS

LEFT TO RIGHT: VACHERON CONSTANTIN Heures Créatives Heure Romantique, £45,600; vacheron-constantin.com DAVID MORRIS Rose Cut and Micro-Set Diamond, £65,900; davidmorris.com CHARLES OUDIN Pansy Retro with Pearl, £23,280; williamandson.com GIRARD-PERREGAUX Cats Eye Small Second, £19,200; williamandson.com PIAGET Limelight, POA; piaget.com

GOLD BRACELET

LEFT TO RIGHT: HARRY WINSTON Emerald, £16,700; harrywinston.com OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra Co-Axial Master Chronometer, £34,900; omegawatches.com PATEK PHILIPPE Nautilus Ref. 7010/1R-011, £33,860; patek.com ROLEX Day Date 40, POA; rolex.com BOUCHERON Reflect Small, £20,550; boucheron.com

COMPLICATIONS

LEFT TO RIGHT: RICHARD MILLE Automatic Tourbillon Talisman, POA; richardmille.com BULGARI Divas’ Dream Phoenix Tourbillon, POA; bulgari.com AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon, POA; audemarspiguet.com JAEGER LECOULTRE LECOULTRE, Rendez-Vous Tourbillon, POA; jaeger-lecoultre.com VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, Lady Arpels Ronde des Papillons, £117,000; vancleefarpels.com

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STYLE

of S STAR

WONDER A constellation of celestial jewels to take you to infinity and beyond Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP CENTRE: ANNOUSHKA Love Diamonds Lunar 18ct gold and diamond pendant £2,200 £2,200; annoushka.com TESSA PACKARD Diamond Northbound earrings black in gold with pearls and pave-diamond detailing, £2,250; tessapackard.com LYNN BAN Shooting Star sapphire & ruby single ear cuff, £2,018; matchesfashion.com CHANEL Comète ring in 18ct white gold set with round-cut diamonds and round-cut black spinels, POA; chanel.com ANDREA FOHRMAN Gold Mini Mother-of-Pearl Galaxy Star ring, £2,175; libertylondon.com ASPREY Cosmic Orbit ring, £4,025; asprey.com NOOR FARES Rainbow Merkaba Dormeuse 3D earrings, £7,530; noorfares.com

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01/01/2019 12:18

NOW OPE N

Let us transform your beauty ritual

Ground Floor, The Village Westfield London. Shepherd’s Bush.

To celebrate the opening of Natura Bissé Spa at the Village, the brand is delighted to offer The Glossary readers a full size Diamond Cocoon Ultimate Shield (valued £112)* with every Signature Treatment until 31st January 2019. thevillage@naturabissespa.com

FULL PAGE ADVERTS.indd 1

(0)203 976 6292

Use the code GLOSSARY18

17/12/2018 15:09

BEAUTY

Face Time Despite being one of the world’s biggest supermodels, Naomi Campbell has never fronted a beauty campaign. That’s about to change, as Nars has revealed Naomi as the new face of its SS19 campaigns. François Nars, the brand’s founder and creative director who shot the images said of his long-time friend and muse, “Naomi is a living icon and brings such strong personality to the camera.” nars.com

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Beauty Notes Red-hot lipsticks, skincare saviours and iconic fragrant body oils to banish the winter blues

The Power of Three

New year, new skincare regime? Expect real results with Genaissance de la Mer Collection, a transformative trio that targets lines, puffiness and dark circles. The sumptuous set includes best-selling products; The Infused Lotion, The Serum Essence and The Eye and Expression Cream which work as a system to hydrate, nourish and rejuvenate winter-worn skin.

Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

lamer.co.uk

A New Flame

Diptyque has just opened it’s sixth and largest boutique in London in Old Spitafields Market, with a limited-edition holiday collection Légende du Nord created by artist Pierre Marie that includes the Armande Exquise candle (£53, 190g above) – a gourmand almond scent with a hint of tonka bean. Diptyque, 113 Commercial Street, Spitalfields, E1

diptyque.com

Get The Glow

ACE OF BASE Tom Ford has launched Traceless Touch Foundation Satin Matte Cushion Compact (£42) which offers medium to full coverage with a semi-matte finish in a cushion foundation. The multi-tasking formula is enriched with antioxidants and an Aquacell moisturising complex to deliver hydration, whilst the broad spectrum SPF 45 protects skin from sun and environmental stressors. tomford.com

Brighten Up

Dr Sebagh’s Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream uses the purest and highest concentration of Vitamin C – the wonder weapon against ageing – is designed to be mixed with your favourite serum or cream to create the perfect brightening and repairing skin booster. The powerful treatment comes in conveniently sized vials ensuring none of the potency is lost. £79 for five vials

drsebagh.com

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02/01/2019 13:14

Shine On Cara Delevingne has been announced at the face of Dior Addict lipstick. The model and actress will front the new lipstick collection, Stellar Shine, a new formulation conceived by Peter Philips, creative and image director for Dior makeup, out March. dior.com

Tried & Tested

Red Alert

Celebrity make-up artist, and You-Tube beauty tutorial megastar Lisa Eldridge has finally launched her first solo makeup line, starting with a trio of limited-edition red lipsticks formulated to emulate the texture of velvet. e crueltyfree lipsticks come in three shades; Velvet Morning is a “hot and fiery bright orangey red”; Velvet Ribbon (right) a “vibrant, universal, classic neutral blue” and Velvet Jazz, a “muted, earthy brick red inspired by the 1930s.” £26; lisaeldridge.com

B EST O F TH E R EST N E W RED LI PSTI CKS

CHANEL Rouge Allure Velvet No5, £32

KJAER WEIS Organic Lipstick in Love, £44

CLINIQUE Dramatically Different in Hot Tamale, £20.50

NARS Spiked Audacious Lipstick in Siouxsie, £26

Back to Nature

Initially created for the Chanel au Ritz Paris Spa, where Gabrielle Chanel famously stayed for 34 years, the fragrant body oils used for massage treatments are now available to buy. Lightweight, but deeply nourishing and luxurious, L’Huile Body Oil melts into the skin, leaving it satiny smooth and lightly scented. Each of the four bottles (Jasmin, Orient, Vanille and Rose) reveal a different bouquet made from 98% natural-origin ingredients sourced from the famed flower fields of Grasse.

chanel.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

VOTARY

CIRE TRUDON

Lavender & Chamomile, £45 Soy wax, 220g votary.co.uk

Nazareth Rose Gold, £495 Vegetable wax, 3kg trudon.com

LE LABO

Santal 26, £315 Soy wax, 1.2kg lelabofragrances.com

OSKIA

Rose De Mai, £36 Soybean oil, coconut oil & beeswax, 200g oskiaskincare.com

NEOM

Tranquility Intensive, £36 Soybean oil, 140g neomorganics.com

H VEN SCENT LIGHT UP THIS WINTER WITH A BOTANICALLY INSPIRED NATURAL WAX CANDLE Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

CASACARTA Luna, £105 Soy wax, 1.9kg selfridges.com

MAULI

Sundaram & Silence, £55 Vegetable wax, 210g maulirituals.com

MAISON VES

#P.S.ILOVEYOU, £65 Mineral & vegetable blend, 220g maisonves.com

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THE WOLSELEY

The Wolseley Candle, £49 Soy wax, 210g thewolseleyshop.com

WILNELIA FORSYTH Coquito, £55 Natural wax, 220g wilneliaforsyth.com

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE .COM

31/12/2018 22:35

Three steps to radiance.

Discover Dr Sebagh’s glow-getting prescription for fresh and radiant-looking skin. Say goodbye to dull and tired-looking skin with this deeply rejuvenating glow-boosting treatment. Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh, internationally sought after cosmetic doctor and ‘Ageing-Maintenance’ pioneer, has created this powerfully effective ritual to brighten, smooth, tighten and protect skin using four key products from his award-winning skin care range.

2. In the palm of your hand, mix your own, radiance-restoring blend of the cult Serum Repair, a hyaluronic acid-based skin-plumper to hydrate, firm and repair, and Rose de Vie Serum, infused with antioxidant rosehip oil to nourish, protect and leave skin gleaming.

1. Begin by preparing your skin with Dr Sebagh Deep Exfoliating Mask Sensitive Skin, for maximum glow-getting benefits. For an extra brightening boost, mix with a little of the highly concentrated Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream. This antioxidant-rich, stabilised formula also helps to repair and protect skin against environmental aggressors.

3. Add a dose of Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream to your serum blend for a super-charged, dramatically revitalising, brightening treatment with beautifully glowing results.

Untitled-1.indd 1 - Glossary Magazine - Three Steps to Radiance 2018 Display Ad RHP v1.indd 2 201118 Dr Sebagh

Available in-store and at drsebagh.com

17/12/2018 13:58 15:05 20/11/2018

Co d Comfort l

THE BEST NEW BEAUTY OPENINGS AND SPA TREATMENTS ACROSS THE CAPITAL THIS WINTER

Natura Bissé Spa at The Village WESTFIELD, ARIEL WAY, WHITE CITY, W12 Natura Bissé, lauded by beauty editors for its expertly-formulated, high-performing skincare products, has just opened its first ever standalone Natura Bissé Day Spa in the luxury quarter of The Village in Westfield, White City. The 340 sq m spa is described as an “avant-garde space” created to offer an immersive experience, while the three treatment rooms all benefit from purifiers to ensure 99.9% pure, filtered air - a dream for polluted city skin. For a unique and uplifting experience, we recommend trying a treatment in the Natura Bissé bubble - an isolated environment filled with pure air and soft aromas. The facial and body treatment menu is extensive and effective, with many treatments incorporating the latest sensory technology. Signature treatment… The multi-faceted Signature Diamond ChronoLift facial (£170) is exclusive to the Westfield spa, and combines forward-thinking techniques with Natura Bissé’s hero products. The first step is a cleansing ritual and gentle skin resurfacing, before the application of two different concentrates - the Tolerance Neuropeptide and the Diamond Experience Energizing Nectar, to activate the skin’s cellular energy; the treatment marks the debut for the Diamond Extreme Oil, a blend of chia, amaranth and calendula, which is used with a lifting massage to nourish and firm the complexion, before the final application of two different masks - leaving skin luminous and cheekbones sculpted. naturabisse.com

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Ilapothecary 99 KENSINGTON CHURCH STREET, KENSINGTON, W8,

Bamford Haybarn 104 DRAYCOTT AVENUE, SOUTH KENSINGTON, SW3 Fans of Bamford, the pioneering organic lifestyle and wellness brand, will be delighted that it has thrown open the doors to an urban sanctuary in Brompton Cross. The concept at Bamford Haybarn is simple: each floor invites you to discover a pillar in Bamford’s well-being philosophy; ‘Move’, a skylit studio offering yoga, meditation and sound healing classes, is at the top; ‘Breathe’ is on the ground floor, where you can sip tea, have an express treatment and browse the company’s ethical products. Below stairs is ‘Heal’, with treatment rooms for facials and massages using techniques from around the world. Signature treatment… Hand yourself over to holistic therapist Marlena for the Full-Body Signature massage, which soothes weary muscles and racing minds (£170 for 85 minutes). After a footbath to draw out toxins, Japanese shiatsu massage opens the body’s meridians, restoring balance and flow. Swedish massage follows, releasing tension in the back and legs, before a heated chakra stone is placed on the abdomen for a gentle abdominal massage, while an Indian head rub melts away anxieties. bamford.com

Ilapothecary - the diffusion line of organic beauty brand Ila - has an ideology based on remedying our fast-paced, modern lifestyle, with products formulated using British grown herbs, homeopathic ingredients, powerful gemstones and numerology. Now stressed-out urbanites can further tap into this zeitgeist at the newly-opened Ilapothecary hideaway on Kensington Church Street where, as well as experiencing treatments, visitors can partake in weekly sessions and workshops, such as 432hz sound healing, pranayama breathing and relaxation, and gong baths. Signature treatment… The store’s ‘Chakra Blending Bar’ offers thoughtfully-curated treatments for fraught cityfolk, including the ‘Happy Hormone Equilibrium’, a back massage to support the reproductive system; ‘Digital Detox Facial Therapy’, which aims to ease the stresses resulting from the frequent use of technology; and ‘Bespoke Energy Healing’, a massage using a unique blend of oils, chakra balancing and hands-onhealing to restore the nervous system and address any underlying issues. From £65. ilapothecary.com

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BEAUTY OPENINGS.indd 59

Votary at Harrods HARRODS HAIR & BEAUTY SALON, BROMPTON ROAD, KNIGHTSBRIDGE, SW1 Votary is well-known for harnessing all the skin-transforming powers of natural plant, seed and flower oils, using only the finest active ingredients. And now the organic skincare brand has launched its first treatment at the new hair and beauty salon at Harrods with the arrival of the Super Seed Nutrient Facial, which promises to “sow the seeds for beautifully calm skin…” Developed to suit a range of skin types, the fragrance-free Super Seed collection is a beauty staple for anyone with irritated, hormonal or sensitive skin, who swear by its age-defying and antiinflammatory properties. Signature treatment… The Super Seed Nutrient Facial (£120) starts with a double deep-cleanse using the cleansing oil, followed by a light lactic peel, ideal to brighten sensitive complexions; a rose quartz facial massage reduces irritation and inflammation, before the application of the ultrasoothing Votary Matcha X Super Seed facial mask, with a toning serum, facial oil and nutrient cream to finish. All this, with plenty of expert advice too, is packed into 50 minutes, leaves skin ready to face arctic winter winds. harrods.com

30/12/2018 22:55

GOOD

NIGHT?

WE’RE CURRENTLY IN THE GRIPS OF AN INSOMNIA EPIDEMIC - WE SPEAK TO LONDON’S TOP SLEEP EXPERTS ABOUT WHAT WE CAN DO Words SOPHIE BENGE and HARRIET COOPER

he clock glows 03.21. Your body wants to sleep, you know you need to sleep. But your whirring mind won’t let you. Rising panic at the prospect of another night of tossing and turning causes your fight or flight mode to kick in; your heart starts to race and your senses become heightened. It’s like you’ve drunk ten cups of coffee, but of course you haven’t. As the minutes crawl by, the loneliness and frustration weigh heavy as you resign yourself to seeing dawn creep through the blinds, again. Through a fog of exhaustion, you tackle the day - desperate to cover up your inability to think clearly or cohesively before collapsing into bed, filled with dread of another night of the same... Welcome to the debilitating, seemingly never-ending, gritty-eyed hell of chronic sleep trouble. According to a report by the Mental Health Foundation, a staggering one third of us may suffer from insomnia, sleeping significantly less than the standard seven to nine hours per night that conventional wisdom (namely the NHS) recommends. “Sleep provides the required off-period when the brain and body regenerate,” says Dr. Ivana Rosenzweig, a neuropsychiatrist, sleep physician and neuroscientist who leads both the Sleep and Brain Plasticity Centre (Sleepcity) at King’s College and The Sleep

Programme at health, wellbeing and lifestyle club Grace Belgravia, Knightsbridge. “It is the time when major cortical brain cells are repaired,” she continues. “The space between the cells widens during sleep, which allows toxins and by-products of their activity to be flushed away. If sleep is impaired, wear and tear gradually accumulates, cells die sooner and this results in illnesses ranging from psychological issues and neurological disorders, such as Alzheimer’s, to metabolic problems and cancer.” While a one-off restless night can affect our mood, concentration and alertness - as well as make us look older - grouchiness and under-eye circles are the least of an insomniac’s worries. Humans are not designed to be awake during the night; high levels of sleeplessness not only increase the risk of medical conditions, but can expose people to chronic depression and other mental issues. Essentially, under-sleeping is a health time-bomb and we’re getting very good at it. So much so, according to academics, we’re currently in the grips of an insomnia epidemic. But what is contributing to this surge in severe sleeplessness? In a nutshell, it’s down to the 24/7 rhythm of modern life. Our brains today are constantly flooded with information that they simply weren’t designed to digest. Technological onslaught demands we never switch off - even an Instagram ‘Like’ releases

a small surge of dopamine that adds to our state of constant alertness. On top of our tech-obsessed, crazy schedules, add travel across time zones, having a young family, late-night eating and drinking, even strong, artificial light after dark, and our sleep patterns get out of whack. Our circadian (circa=about, dian=day) rhythm, the 24-hour biological cycle that tells our bodies when to rest, rise, eat, be active and be calm, has not evolved to cope with this round-the-clock, sensory intrusion. The result: too many of us are hungover with exhaustion from living. “The types of people I see vary, although I would say almost 70 percent are women, whose insomnia is often triggered, or at least increased, when they start a family,” says Max Kerstin, a sleep coach with a clinic in Knightsbridge. “I also see a lot of highpowered business men and women who tend to be under extreme pressure at work to perform at the highest level”. Now we have our sleep debt, we need to repay it. On the lesser scale, we can have a warm bath with Epsom salt and take an early night. But the larger sleep debt of the insomniac is a little harder to recompense. Suggest lavender drops or a chamomile tea to the chronic non-sleeper, and they’ll likely roll their eyes. And you can bet they’ve heeded every ounce of sleep hygiene advice about reevaluating their sleeping environment (room

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

reduce PTSD; the best man to do it with is temperature, light) and avoiding the bright leading TRE® expert Steve Haines, who takes blue light of late-night tech, which suppresses workshops and groups across London, though melatonin, the hormone controlling your Triyoga offer it too. circadian rhythm. Anxiety and depression are also major “What we really want to do is unstack targets for insomnia sufferers undergoing what’s stacked up during the day”, advises Lisa CBTi (Cognitive Behavioural Therapy for Sanfilippo, the UK’s leading yoga for insomnia insomnia). Once the underlying causes and expert. She has spent the last 15 years guiding factors behind a patient’s sleeplessness have herself and others to sleep better through been identified, steps are taken to remedy practical yoga, and her 15-minute Sleep them, whether that’s Sequence of postures not only helps people shift from sleep restriction, stimulus their default head space, control, relaxation training it also physically pulls or cognitive therapy - or all tension from their limbs of them. that has accumulated due Though as Max Kerstin, to daily activity. who teaches a combination “The poses have been of CBTi with his own form sequenced in a particular of somatic mindfulnessway that is safe, effective based autogenic relaxation and works for most training (SMART) and bodies,” she says. Even acceptance and commitment better, after an initial therapy for insomnia (ACTi), tension-releasing down is quick to point out, sleep MAULI Himalayan salts, £42; dog, they are all done lying is subjective and what maulirituals.com VOTARY works for one insomnia flat, with emphasis on Pillow spray, £30; votary.co.uk sufferer may not work stretching, breathing and for another. opening the diaphragm While there may be in a way that relaxes and myriad tried and tested brings down the heart rate. ways to catch some zzzs, It’s the cumulative effect Dr Guy Meadows - sleep of peeling back tension expert, trained physiologist that embeds physiological and Clinical Director change, and ushers in sleep. THE SUPER ELIXIR of the Sleep School in Yoga is a major BAMFORD Sleep Welle Fortified B Silent Night-Time Calming Tea, £48; west London believes component in Lisa’s sleep Bath Concentrate, £70; cultbeauty.co.uk bamford.co.uk by obsessively worrying programme. And she’s not about how to cure our alone. The ancient practice sleeplessness, we’re actually can be widely beneficial as putting insomnia on a a sleep tool; yoga nidra or pedestal and strengthening ‘yogic sleep’ for example, it. “Trying to problem-solve is a powerful relaxation and to control is not helping technique that can be the situation. If you ask a practiced before bedtime normal sleeper what they do as a means of encouraging to sleep, they say, ‘Nothing.’ slumber. It’s done lying on DOTERRA If you ask an insomniac, the floor in shavasana; based SANATIO NATURALIS Lavender essential oil, £25.75; they’ll give you a list as long upon guided meditation, Porcelain diffuser, £75; sanationaturalis.com pureskinlab.com as your arm,” he has said. the practitioner then focuses Max tends to agree. “Worrying about not on the body and breathing, which incites sleeping definitely exacerbates the problem. relaxation. It’s believed that just 30 minutes of Good sleepers close their eyes when they’re yoga nidra is the equivalent of approximately ready to sleep, and start relaxing, which two hours of deep sleep. leads to drifting off and effortless sleep. Bad Likewise one of the many benefits of TRE® sleepers close their eyes feeling tense about - a series of simple yet innovative exercises having a bad night, and the more they try to that activate a natural reflex mechanism sleep, the more awake they are. It becomes a of shaking, which in turn releases deep self-fulfilling prophecy.” muscular patterns of stress, tension and So take heart sleep sufferers, sleeping like a trauma - is better sleep. TRE® disciples also baby once again, is, one way or another, within report that it encourages a soothing, pleasant our grasp. Even if you do nothing. feeling - explaining why it’s often used to help

Beauty Sleep

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Meet the Experts The capital’s foremost sleep specialists, who are all dedicated to helping you get a better night’s rest Max Kirsten

Max is The Sleep Coach, specialising in the holistic treatment of insomnia at his clinic in Knightsbridge. He teaches a combination of his own form of SMART with ACTi and CBTi, and has also formulated a sleep training guide, which he recommends clients follow. 35 Beauchamp Place, Knightsbridge, SW3 thesleepcoach.co.uk

Dr. Ivana Rosenzweig

One of the UK’s leading neuropsychiatrists, a consultant psychiatrist and a certified expert in sleep medicine, Dr. Ivana investigates the role of sleep on our brains and the disorders keeping us awake. She leads The Sleep Programme at Grace Belgravia and heads up a team at the Sleep and Brain Plasticity Centre (Sleepcity) at King’s College. 11c W Halkin Street, Belgravia, SW1 gracebelgravia.com sleepcity.institute

Lisa Sanfilippo

A psychology major from Brown University in America who, after years of study, is now the leading yoga for insomnia expert. Her unique approach is a synthesis of depth psychology, yoga traditions, neuroscience and somatic work, and she currently offers a six-week online course and workshops across London. lisayogalondon.com

Dr. Guy Meadows

Sleep physiologist Dr. Guy is a pioneer of the use of ACT, and mindfulness, for insomnia and is founder of The Sleep School, where he and his team educate people on the importance of sleep and run a series of private clinics and consultations, workshops and courses to help patients sleep better. 28 Bristol Gardens, Maida Vale, W9 thesleepschool.org

The London Sleep Centre

A leader in the provision of diagnostic and treatment services for people with sleep disorders, and related medical and psychological disorders. Based on the belief that every patient is unique, their multimodal treatment plan combines science, medicine, psychology, social and holistic methods (The Sigma Approach). 137 Harley Street, Marylebone, W1 londonsleepcentre.com

30/12/2018 23:21

Interview

SUPER NATURAL Renowned yogi, nutritional writer and wellness entrepreneur Julie Montagu is one of the capital’s go-to holistic gurus. She shares her thoughts on health and happiness Words CHARLOTTE ADSETT

er upbeat, fun Vinyasa flow style, complete with a full-blast soundtrack of U2 and Lady Gaga, has led Julie Montagu to become the west London yoga set’s teacher of choice. After years at the capital’s best health hotspots, Julie is now based exclusively at leading studio, Triyoga, where she remains one of their most popular practitioners. So much so, she has been known to teach standing on the radiator when classes are at capacity. In addition to her three bestselling superfood cookbooks and her recent mindfulness publication, Recharge: A Year of Self-Care to Focus on You, Julie

founded Whole Self Yoga, a practice that combines energising yoga with robust nutrition and mindfulness, and she holds retreats at the family’s Mapperton estate in the rolling hills of west Dorset. As an American woman married to British aristocracy (her husband is Luke Montagu, future Earl of Sandwich) Julie was selected as the BBC correspondent for Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s wedding. Julie is also mother to four children aged 12 to 20. Here, she tells us how she makes it work. How did you start your wellness journey? I was an exhausted mother of four young children and my husband Luke became

ill [he was misprescribed antidepressants and his subsequent dependency was then mistreated]. I was probably the most unhappy I’ve ever been. I loathed my life. I was sinking into a hole of despair. So I went to my first yoga class and, in one day, became fascinated by how much energy it gave me and how much it could boost my mood. So began a lifelong love of yoga? Yes. I needed to do something to free my mind, and fast. I went to Bikram first, and from there I started to explore other types of yoga and fell madly in love with Vinyasa Flow. After Luke became ill, it became the only thing that made me feel

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

good about myself. I completed a yoga training course and started teaching classes in the local church hall. They were humble beginnings, but it gradually took off and introduced me to a whole new holistic world of living. What inspired you to offer yoga retreats at your home in Dorset? We took over the running of Mapperton, my husband’s estate in west Dorset, two years ago. Like all these wonderful, old English houses, in order to keep them within the family you have to make them commercial. We had to figure out how; one idea was weddings, and the other was yoga retreats. We got a grant from English Heritage to convert Mapperton’s 17th-century, Grade I listed coach house into an enormous, beautiful space, which can be used for nuptials and also for yoga.

it’s for just 6 hours, it’s deep sleep. The longest relationship you have in your life is with yourself. Be your own best friend and prioritise treating yourself well. How do you find balance with such a busy schedule? I have a lot of eggs in my basket but family are always my priority, followed by my own yoga practice. I feel that if I prioritise these then I am better able to give more energy to everything else. I firmly believe that it all starts with me, taking care of what’s really important to me first.

Do you have a daily ritual? I have green tea first thing and I rarely miss an Epsom salt bath in the evening. After my bath, I sleep like a log! Even if

The next Whole Self Yoga retreat is Thursday 31 January until Sunday 3 February 2019. For more information visit wholeself.yoga

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GLOSSARY LUNCH DATE

Meriondale on the New King’s Road does the best rustic Italian food with great gluten-free options. I always order the fresh pasta with aubergines, tomatoes and olives. 311 New Kings Road, Fulham, SW6; meridionale.london

FAVOURITE TREATMENT

The Hypno-Mind Massage at Gazelli House is amazing; you are massaged, while listening to an outstanding, powerful 90-minute guided meditation. It releases all my emotional and physical blocks. 174 Walton Street, Chelsea, SW3; gazelli.com

HEALTH FOOD HAVENS

Who is your role model? I literally grew up with Oprah. She was as inspirational in the 1980s as she is now. She has always stayed true to herself and never tried to be anyone else. And that’s what I love, her humility keeps her grounded and real. What is your advice to the busy, London woman? Breathe. Inhale for four seconds, exhale for six seconds. This has made a huge difference in my energy. Breathing gives me mental clarity and emotional stability. Also, take a step back. If you’re reacting

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You’ve been through a lot. What would you say to someone who is at their lowest? Firstly, don’t hold it in. Cry, scream - get it all out. Secondly, talk to someone; and thirdly, force yourself to get outside and walk, even for ten minutes. Getting fresh air helps to create space between negative thoughts. What advice would you give to your younger self? When life hits you hard, remember that each experience is there to teach you something and to help you grow; the silver lining from that situation is there, but it won’t reveal itself until it’s ready.

Tell us more about the retreats… They run from Thursday afternoon to Sunday lunch. I’ll be teaching a morning Vinyasa session and a sundown restorative meditation every day. I’ve also brought in two amazing, local women who will be doing mindful crafting sessions, including making smudge sticks, lunar candles and bath melts, plus there’ll be foraging and floral arranging. We can accommodate up to 20 people on the retreat. There are 12 bedrooms in total, all of them newly-renovated. We’ve also put in an industrial kitchen and a restaurant. A lot of the plantbased meals come from the superfood cookbooks I’ve written. How important is nutrition to you? I got into healthy eating because I needed energy and I wanted to heal my husband. I did a year-long course in nutrition, and a three-month course on plant-based nutrition. I went vegan for about six years, though these days I eat fish and eggs. When it comes to particular types of diet, I do really believe in what works best for the individual. Eat more plants, for sure, less meat and less processed foods. And don’t eat anything your grandmother wouldn’t have recognised.

towards something, your balance is going to shift and you’re going to feel stressed out. Try to be less reactive. And I’m all about compassion - if we all had a little more, the world would be a better place.

I shop at Planet Organic in Wandsworth for groceries; I adore vegan zero waste store Hetu on St Johns Hill in Clapham; and CPress make the best organic cold-pressed juices, salads and coffee. 52 Garratt Lane, Wandsworth, SW18; planetorganic.com 201 St. Johns Hill, Battersea, SW11; hetu.co.uk cpressjuice.com

TOP SHOP

My go-to is Rêve En Vert; an “honest luxury” online shop that stocks brilliant and sustainable eco fashion brands, plus interesting clean, organic beauty. reve-en-vert.com

GO-TO YOGA STUDIO

Triyoga is truly the best yoga studio in London. They offer such an extensive schedule with the most experienced and inspiring teachers no matter what level you are. It’s such a joy to teach there and the team are like my second family. Studios across London; triyoga.co.uk

HIDDEN GEM

The Allbright is a wonderful all-women’s club just off Oxford Street. I’ve been a member since it opened last spring and like to work there whenever I’m in central London. 11 Rathbone Place, Fitzrovia, W1; allbrightcollective.com

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everyone triyoga... 6 beautiful locations 750+classes a week 25+ styles of yoga expert teachers pilates gyrotonic + barre treatments teacher training organic cafĂŠs lifestyle shops at triyoga london www.triyoga.co.uk

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15/06/2018 19:57

Raise The Roof Get your hygge on this Winter, as Orrery launches its rooftop Alpine terrace. Expect fir trees and sheepskin rugs, as well as Courvoisier-based hot-toddies and even Diptyque candles to create a forest aroma. The menu (ÂŁ59pp) reflects the French theme with charcuterie and hot baked apples to finish. 55 Marylebone High Street, Marylebone W1 orrery-restaurant.co.uk

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Tasting Notes The latest openings and the places to know across the capital

British Bistronomy

The kitchen at Levan sends out eggs fried in brown butter as morning light streams into the former warehouse unit. As night falls candlelight flickers on the walls, and attention turns to exquisite sharing plates of cod crudo and beef tartare washed down with orange wine and heritage vermouth. 12-16 Blenheim Grove, Peckham, SE15 levanlondon.co.uk

Compiled by RACHEL WALKER

Jet Set

Fancy stepping-up your après-ski a notch? The Firefly Collection has recruited six world-renowned chefs to lay-on private chalet dinners. What better way to end a day on the slopes than to find Pierre Koffman or Monica Galetti in the kitchen, cooking up a feast in your private Alpine retreat? Flying Chef Programme, from £14,000 for 12 guests firefly-collection.com

Hot Spot

GRECIAN ODYSSEY

Mykonos comes to Mayfair with Onima: a bar, restaurant, private lounge and (soon to open) glass-enclosed rooftop terrace spread over five floors. Greek classics like Spanakopita and Saganaki are at the heart of an Asian fusion menu at this chic new launch, which brings a glimpse of the Mediterranean to British winter. 1-3 Avery Row, Mayfair, W1 onimarestaurant.com

THEATRICAL FUSION

ON FIRE

The old Met Bar is now cooking on flames, having been resurrected as a serious restaurant: Gridiron. Think burnt leeks, smoked beef shin and wood smoked scallop, with a ‘savouries’ menu making Londoners rethink the role of a dessert – why round off an evening with a pudding, when you can have a Baked Tunworth cheese instead? 19 Old Park Lane, Mayfair, W11 gridironlondon.com

Sushisamba has opened its second London site in Covent Garden, with its Opera Terrace location making it ideal for pre-theatre dining (£28pp). Expect its signature Japanese-Brazilian, from shrimp tempura to crispy taquitos, washed down with Japanese sake or the Kaifirinha – their take on a Brazilian Caipirinha. 35 e Market, Covent Garden, WC2 sushisamba.com

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BARFLY

THE CORAL ROOM

For seductive style and cocktails to match, The Coral Room at The Bloomsbury has to be one of our favourite openings of 2018. What was once an ordinary hotel reception area has been transformed by interiors virtuoso Martin Brudnizki into a super-slick grand salon bar, where original illustrations by Luke Edward Hall adorn the vivid orangepink walls and bespoke Murano glass chandeliers hang from the ceiling. But itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the Calacatta marble-top bar which takes centre stage - order a signature Midtown Swizzle (Havana Especial Rum, Lustau Sherry, Passion Fruit Puree, Lime Juice, Pineapple Syrup and English Sparkling Wine) from one of the talented mixologists, a selection of the appetising small plates, and settle in for the evening. 16-22 Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury, WC1 thecoralroom.co.uk

MERLINâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MAGIC FOR REFUGEES Help Refugees, the pioneering charity leading a new movement in humanitarian aid, has teamed up with a host of talented chefs - headed up by Merlin Labron-Johnson and including Skye Gyngell, Nuno Mendes, Thomasina Miers and Imad Alarnab - to cook up an evening banquet on Thursday 21 March at cuttingedge space 180 The Strand. One not to miss. 180 The Strand, Covent Garden, WC2 helprefugees.org

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30/12/2018 22:20

Interview

H ide &SLEEK

It was the most talked-about restaurant opening of 2018, garnering a Michelin star after just six months, and now the Hide wünderteam are bringing a spin-off to Burlington Arcade Words HILARY ARMSTRONG

here’s just one week to go before their second launch in the space of a year, and the team behind Hide – founders Yevgeny Chichvarkin and Tatiana Fokina with partners Ollie Dabbous and Oskar Kinberg – seem very relaxed. As well they might, for what’s a seasonal pop-up, albeit a high profile one in Mayfair’s iconic Burlington Arcade, to the fearsome foursome who pulled off London’s most ambitious new restaurant of 2018, winning a Michelin star within six months of opening? “After Hide, Hideaway is great fun,” smiles Fokina, a willowy 31-year-old Italian graduate from St Petersburg. “For the first week after we opened Hide, I woke in a panic thinking I’d come here and it would have turned back into a pumpkin. I lost years of my life sitting in design meetings for the staircase,” she adds, referring to the by-now-iconic timber structure that twists its way up through the building. The stakes were certainly high for Fokina and exiled Russian oligarch Chichvarkin at Hide. For not only had the super-wealthy couple – he’s the mobile phone tycoon turned wine merchant behind Mayfair’s Hedonism Wines; she’s the C.E.O of Hide and Hedonism – spent five years and a rumoured £20m realising their three-storey Piccadilly pleasure dome, they’d also rattled a few cages by wooing Ollie Dabbous – hero among chefs – and cocktail king Oskar Kinberg over from their edgy Fitzrovia indie Dabbous to the megabucks Mayfair operation. Everybody involved had something to prove. Dabbous and Kinberg that they hadn’t sold out; Fokina and Chichvarkin that Hide wasn’t just some multi-millionaire’s plaything.

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“Getting the star was a relief, I would say,” says Fokina, her delight palpable. “Without sounding arrogant, we know this is Michelin-star quality food and we’ve known it from the beginning, but you never know how you’re going to be judged. It’s a nerve-wracking experience.” For Le Manoir-trained Dabbous, who’s won a star previously (at Dabbous in 2012) and has had even bigger news to celebrate this year – his first child was born in September – Hide’s star means a lot. “It is really special for us,” he says quite simply, “given the size of the venue and the scope of the offering. I was really flattered that they awarded it so quickly.” Let’s not understate this: to win even one star at an operation such as Hide’s is an extraordinary achievement. A triple-stranded concept, comprising Hide Below (the basement bar – Oskar Kinberg’s domaine), Hide Ground (a 70-cover all-day space) and Hide Above (a fine-dining restaurant with Green Park views), it’s effectively a seven-day-a-week, 24-hour operation (bakers and cleaners work through the night) employing over 180 staff and serving as many as 550 covers a day between 7.30am and 1am. What can be made in-house is made inhouse – bread, viennoiserie, black pudding, jams, charcuterie – and menus are ever-evolving. “When you’re looking over Green Park and the seasons are right there in front of you, you can’t be serving food that’s out of season,” says Dabbous. His personal favourites from the menu right now include, at Ground, hand-cut farfalle, the pasta sheets embedded with shaved truffle; and, at Above, foie gras gently cooked to an almost custard-like consistency with toasted rice broth. “I think it’s gorgeous,” he says. I mention one dish I’d admired on pastry chef Zak Poulot’s Instagram – an autumnal millefeuille of delicate caramelised puff pastry leaves with pecan praline mousse – and, before I know it, there’s one in front of me. “I wanted it to look a bit like the falling leaves in the park,” muses Dabbous. “We had Rose our designer [These White Walls’ Rose Murray] make the cutters based on leaves in Green Park. It’s nice doing stuff

Putin who fled Russia in 2008 and whose worth the Sunday Times Rich List currently pegs at £118m, likens Dabbous and Alistair Viner, his head wine buyer at Hedonism Wines, to artists. “Chichvarkin won't disclose what Dabbous's salary but what he will say is he gives Dabbous freedom 'freedom to create'. "[Alistair and Ollie] are like proper artists; they do what they want to do. The people we choose are ambitious, intelligent. We don't need to push them. Probably my only talent is to know when to leave it to the professionals." Dabbous, for his part, is happy to no longer have his name on the awning: “I love it, I absolutely love it. You look at it more like a business than an extension of yourself. It feels healthier.” While Chichvarkin had always loved the food at Dabbous, he was less enamoured of the wine list. At Hide, he has made available the entire cellar from Hedonism to create what’s believed to be the world’s largest restaurant wine list at some 6,200 bins. Chichvarkin himself has a taste for old Champagne and Burgundy, both well represented at Hedonism, with the likes of 1988 RomanéeConti DRC listed at £34,835 and Salon 1966 at £6,650. (That said, a bottle of Louis Roederer NV can be found for less than at Waitrose). At Hide, there are two lists: the edited restaurant version that opens at an accessible £5 per glass and the unexpurgated digital one linked to the shop. In a matter of clicks, guests have any bottle of their choosing

“It’s easy to be different but it’s hard to be good, to do something new that’s on pitch” that’s bespoke to us. It’s easy to be different but it’s hard to be good, to do something new that’s on pitch.” Dabbous characterises his style ‘a little bit Tim Burton’ with gothic elements of fantasy and fairytale at play. Witness the birch sap croissants speared with licorice sticks, the long-stem candyfloss roses with afternoon tea, Dabbous’s signature coddled ‘nest egg’ and the dainty new almond macarons, individually handpainted with Hide’s nest logo. “He’s a perfectionist,” declares Chichvarkin, Hide’s ebullient and eccentrically clad owner, of Dabbous. “That’s what I really like. His food is the best food for old classic Burgundies, in my opinion. It’s not minimalistic but it has the necessary amount on the plate and it’s all beautiful.” Chichvarkin, a vocal critic of

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FOOD & DRINK

whizzed over to Hide for £35 on top of the retail price. This means, for example, a bottle of ‘82 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque, priced elsewhere in London at close to £2,000, comes in at £1,201.30.

“We’d hoped [the service] would get used,” says Fokina. “But you never know how playful your guests will be. People just loving getting that iPad, pressing the button and seeing the van arrive.” Tapping into Hedonism’s rare spirit resources has been a revelation for Oskar Kinberg, 33, the master

mixologist behind Hide Below, whose impeccable drinks are known for their exquisite balance (try the pure, clear Adam & Eve – it’s Dabbous’s favourite). “The spirit selection is quite different from Dabbous,” says the jovial Kinberg with a roar of laughter. “I’ve seen things I didn’t know existed before. We sold some cognac from 1858 the other night – it’s like history when you open the cork.” Kinberg and Dabbous, who met working at the Cuckoo Club, are in accordance: Hide’s their chance to evolve their craft. “We did what we could with Dabbous,” says Kinberg, dapper in navy blazer and white pocket square. “It was a fantastic five and a half years. We were two young guys – young whippersnappers really – this is the graduation point where you grow up a little bit.” As a follow-up to Hide, the 20-seater Hideaway pop-up in Burlington Arcade, is a chance to show a different side to Hide’s character. There’s coffee to go, those famous birch sap croissants, charcuterie, oysters, hot spiced punch, champagne, and a very concise, curated range of wines to buy. ‘Like a mini Hedonism and a very boutique Hide,’ is how Fokina puts it. “It just seems really fun and really ‘us’.” Hideaway in Burlington Arcade runs until the end of February 2019. Hide, 85 Piccadilly, W1; hide.co.uk

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GLOSSARY SPECIAL OCCASION

Ollie Dabbous: I love Umu for the purity of the food there. The decor’s beautiful; it feels like a little oasis within London. 14-16 Bruton Place, Mayfair, W1; umurestaurant.com

BAR OF CHOICE

Tatiana Fokina: Even though we have a bar, when I’m in Soho I have to go for just one drink at Bar Termini. It feels exactly like the bar at an Italian train station. 7 Old Compton Street, Soho, W1; bar-termini-soho.com

FAVOURITE STEAKHOUSE

OD: The place I go most often is Smith and Wollensky steak house which is just around the corner from my flat. It’s like something off Mad Men. Everything’s comfortable and properly done; it’s not trying to be trendy. 1-11 John Adam Street, Covent Garden, WC2; smithandwollensky.co.uk

TOP SHOPS

TF: I don’t even know how I discovered The New Craftsman; I run around Mayfair all the time and never realised this was here. They have some very beautiful pieces such as glassware and jewellery. It’s very pared back, very un-‘Mayfair’ in a way. 34 North Row, Mayfair, W1; thenewcraftsmen.com OD: I’m quite easy to buy for. For jewellery and leather wallets, I like The Great Frog. It’s really well-priced. 2 Newburgh Street, Soho, W1; thegreatfroglondon.com

BEAUTY SPOT

TF: Avery is a very cute perfume shop on Avery Row. You feel like you’re in a time capsule and you don’t necessarily know if you’re in London or Paris or Florence. Very much my type of retail space. 27 Avery Row, Mayfair, W1; averyperfumegallery.com

HIDDEN GEM

TF: I always send visitors to Dennis Severs’ House in Spitalfields for their ‘Silent Night’ experience. In the dark, with all the smells and the sounds, it’s like experiencing Dickensian London. Everybody I’ve taken has been mesmerised. 18 Folgate Street, Spitalfields, E1; dennissevershouse.co.uk

30/12/2018 22:13

Restaurant R E V I E W S

SPICE OF LIFE Restaurant writer Hilary Armstrong unearths the hottest Indian restaurants in the capital

Kutir 10 Lincoln Street, Chelsea, SW3 kutir.co.uk

Google Image search for ‘kutir’, meaning cottage or hut in Sanskrit, reveals humble dwellings and modest abodes – nothing to compare with the splendour of Kutir, chef Rohit Ghai’s first solo restaurant in the Lincoln Street townhouse previously occupied by Rasoi Vineet Bhatia. If it feels ever so slightly forbidding to have to ring the doorbell to enter (a passerby might

even mistake Kutir for a members’ club), that’s all forgotten once inside and enveloped in the restaurant’s warm, cosseting embrace. It smells heavenly (lily of the valley, I think) and looks even better, with pattern and prints across every surface representing the forests and jungles of rural India (elephants and langurs are hiding in the Cole & Sons’ wallpaper). Every detail has been attended to from the flowers on the ceiling in the hall to the brass objets on the marble fireplace in the dining room, the ornate silver elephant front door handle and the Zoffany paper in the first floor private dining room (more elephants!). Chef Ghai and front of house partner Abhishake Sangwan worked together at Gymkhana, Bombay Bustle and Jamavar, where Ghai won a Michelin star within a year of opening. Ghai will no doubt be hoping to repeat the feat at Kutir. Here, guests can choose between an ‘Expedition’ tasting menu (vegetarian, £55, and non-vegetarian, £60) or à la carte, a considered selection of ‘small plates’ and mains majoring in seafood and game. We’re taken with two egg dishes: delicate, fluffy scrambled eggs on a quailstuffed naan that’s showered with truffle, and rustic nargisi kofta, a ‘scotch egg’ curry of sorts with richness from roast bone marrow and chur-chur paratha. ‘24 hr’ lamb shoulder rogan josh served with an offal samosa is a clear contender for ‘the one’, the dish that makes Kutir. It tastes great but, garlanded with edible flowers, it looks mimsy when it should really be a showstopper. Our other main course, jackfruit kofta is one of several clever meat-free dishes at Kutir. Ghai’s deep flavours and pronounced spices are out in force; the wine list (strong on classic French bottles) copes admirably. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £100 SIGNATURE DISHES: Lobster rasam; tandoori stone bass with squid ink; 24hr lamb rogan josh WHAT TO DRINK: Cocktails with Kutir’s own vermouth

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FOOD & DRINK

KAHANI 1 Wilbraham Place, Belgravia, SW1 kahanilondon.com

INDIAN ACCENT

16 Albemarle Street, Mayfair, W1 indianaccent.com

ndian Accent arrived in London in December 2017 in a blaze of glory. The cosmopolitan newcomer brought with it its global reputation and status as the ‘World’s Best Indian Restaurant’ (the original New Delhi Indian Accent being the only Indian restaurant on the current World’s Top 100). It could hardly be a better fit for Albemarle Street. A contender for the most beautiful dining room on the street – and the competition is seriously stiff – Indian Accent brings the decorative details of traditional palatial architecture and the clean lines mid-Century design into unexpected harmony. (Dress up in either slick suit or gorgeous gown and you won’t feel out of place). Influential chef Manish Mehotra, a celebrity chef in India, cooks with a free, open outlook. He has a facility for incorporating extreme flavours and textures – think tofu, wagyu, stilton, burrata – that wouldn’t typically be found on an

Indian menu. Some of his unexpected combinations have established themselves as firm favourites: the lilliputian blue cheese naan amuse, the taco-like pulled jackfruit phulka and his soy keema with quail egg and lime leaf pau. Ghee roast lamb comes ‘Peking Duck’ DIY-style with roomali roti pancakes and chutneys. His best dish is his most ‘haute’, however: impossibly plump Kashmiri morels with walnut powder and parmesan crisps – layer after layer of pure umami. For every idea, high and low, ancient and modern, there is a perfect beverage match on the extensive list of international whiskies, fine wines and contemporary cocktails. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £175 SIGNATURE DISHES: Kashmiri morels, walnut powder, parmesan papad WHAT TO DRINK: Older vintages by the glass from the Coravin

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fter ten years at Tamarind, it’s time for chef Peter Joseph to tell his own story at Kahani, his newly opened debut restaurant off Sloane Square. Kahani – the name means ‘story’ in Hindi – follows Joseph’s journey from his home state of Tamil Nadu to England, taking in the flavours of India, the conviviality of Spain and the produce of the British Isles. Appetisers are tapas-esque: savoury doughnuts and chutney, golden beet cakes, and neatly proportioned samosas, handheld snacks of the highest order. The Kahani kitchen is unusual in having both robata grill and Tandoor; Joseph starts with well sourced ingredients – guinea fowl, poussin, organic salmon and lots and lots of seasonal vegetables – coaxing out their character with the application of heat and punchy marinades. Most dishes, including the more luxurious ones such as sirloin kebab with truffle oil, come in two sizes to facilitate sharing. This celebratory approach finds its match in the room’s lustrous fabrics, sweeping banquettes and warm golden light.

MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £140 SIGNATURE DISHES: Scottish blue lobster, three ways WHAT TO DRINK: Excellent mocktails, tonics and sodas

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JIKONI 19-21 Blandford Street, Marylebone, W1 jikonilondon.com

BOMBAY BUSTLE

29 Maddox Street, Mayfair, W1 bombaybustle.com

ombay Bustle takes us on a journey into modern Mumbai. We’re travelling first class, we infer from the cocktails we sip at our perch by the bar (a racy Pearl of Bombay and dramatically hued Incognito with activated charcoal) before sliding into a booth in the pastel Art Deco-style dining room. As the fun little sister of Jamavar, in Mayfair yet within sight of the bright lights of Soho, Bombay Bustle channels the spirit of its namesake city across two floors. There’s grandeur and glamour in the Deco details (the pleated shades and cut-glass screens come from a particularly well-appointed railway carriage) and a nod to the ‘dabbawalas’, the tiffin-tin carriers who use Mumbai’s labyrinthine rail network to ferry home-cooked meals across the city. The menu has a streetwise streak, featuring Mumbai’s best-loved snacks such as keema pau (fluffy buns with, in this case, spiced goat) and samosas with crisp papdi chaat. Most notable of the excellent breads is the richly filled Peshawari naan, that even bests the truffled naan with our masala scrambled eggs. Everything’s designed to be shared so commandeer a capacious downstairs booth with a group and take a deep dive into the approachable and eminently affordable menu. Crowd-pleasing classics include adipoli prawns, fragrant with curry leaves and turmeric, achari lamb chops sizzling from the tandoor, and the buttery warmth of chicken tikka makhani. To finish, choose anjeer (fig) brownies. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £120 SIGNATURE DISHES: Achari lamb chops; Indian spiced scrambled egg, truffle naan WHAT TO DRINK: The vodka-based Pearl of Bombay with passion fruit chutney

avinder Bhogal’s twoyear-old neighbourhood restaurant in Marylebone Village is just the sort of place one wants on one’s doorstep. Adorned with vintage photos, paper flowers and colourful block print fabrics, it’s a cosy spot informal enough for an impromptu midweek (sample excuse: ‘I forgot to pick up supper’). At Jikoni – ‘kitchen’ in Swahili – Bhogal, born in Kenya to Indian parents, marries influences from her life and travels. The flavours come from East Africa, the Middle East, Asia, Britain and their effect is in turn exotic and reassuringly familiar. One is encouraged to begin with the signature scotch quail eggs. The prawn toast one is particularly nifty – and pretty too, in its Pucciesque palate of pale pink, gold and tan. Paired with a rich, sticky banana chutney and cooling pickled cucumber, it’s a strong first impression. To follow, saffron fish and prawn pie with turmeric-infused mash arrives golden brown and bubbling, and soft enough to eat with a spoon alone. It’s in the spirit of home-cooking and is exceptionally good. Mutton keema ‘sloppy joe’ in a brioche bun nudges street food territory, served with battered padron peppers on the side just because. By this point, ‘tamu tamu’ (pudding) is scarcely necessary though we make room for banana pudding and Ovaltine kulfi. The sensible option would be an order of dainty madeleines flavoured with paan (betel) and a pot of single-estate tea from Lalani & Co. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £70 SIGNATURE DISHES: Prawn toast scotch egg, banana ketchup, pickled cucumber WHAT TO DRINK: Pomegranate Negroni

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Restaurant R E V I E W S

JAMAVAR 8 Mount Street, Mayfair, W1 jamavarrestaurants.com

Gymkhana

amavar’s opulent design incorporates hand-cut marquetry, colonial cane and details from the traditional Kashmiri shawls after which the restaurant is named. It’s an old world look for a new world room, frequented by Mount Street habitués – financiers, families and Balenciagaclad shoppers. The waiting staff greet all with solicitous professionalism and charm. In common with its sister restaurants in India, Jamavar Mayfair (the Leela hotel group’s first overseas restaurant) draws inspiration from across India, principally the royal kitchens of the north and the seafood of the south. Chef Surender Mohan stamps his authority on every dish, balancing classical flavours with playful flourishes. Dal chawal aur achaar,

a vegetarian starter, at its simplest might be street food; Jamavar’s version fries the rice and lentil dal in perfect spheres, the comforting flavours enlivened by pickled heritage carrots and dabs of vivid mint chutney. Kid goat shami kebab is less visual but even more impactful thanks to uninhibited spicing and an extraordinary bone marrow gravy. Ingredients are stellar, notably the sweet prawns in Keralan jheenga moilee, and young green peas, just out of the pod, which hold their own against Kashmiri morels in a luxurious vegetable curry. Jamavar has countless signatures, it would take many visits to try even half (the various tasting menus and ‘Royal Brunch’ are a good way in). If I must pick one dish, it would be the glossy, gold-flecked gulab jamun. If they’re not London’s best, I’d like to know whose are. MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £180 SIGNATURE DISHES: Old Delhi Butter Chicken and Lobster Nerulli WHAT TO DRINK: Whisky. Jamavar’s impressive list includes rare, aged single malts

he five years since its inception (and the four since it won its Michelin star), Gymkhana has grown its following to include seemingly every visiting A-lister in town. Barely a week goes by when this jewel in the crown of the JKS Restaurant empire (Hoppers, Brigadiers etc) doesn’t figure in some celebrity diary or other. The reason for its success is not simply that the staff are so discreet, the colonial-era aesthetics so evocative, but that the food is so uniformly and exceptionally good. Kid goat methi keema has been on since day one. A spicy stew of minced meat with soft pau, it comes with optional ‘bheja’ (brains) for a creamy flavour that even the offalaverse have been known to embrace. From the ‘Kebabs and Tikkas’ subsection – it’s all designed to be split – the Achari Guinea Fowl Tikka is the standout. Star of the ‘Game and Chops’ is partridge pepper fry with malabar paratha, also found on the £60 ‘Hunter’s Menu’ alongside the signature muntjac biryani. There’s something about the setting – the slow whirr of the ceiling fans overhead, perhaps – that inspires a full immersion in the concept and a thoroughgoing exploration of the drinks list including but not limited to punches, G&Ts and cooling lassis.

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42 Albemarle Street, Mayfair, W1 gymkhanalondon.com

MEAL FOR TWO (WITH WINE): £150 SIGNATURE DISHES: Kid goat methi keema WHAT TO DRINK: Pink gin and tonics and the signature Quinine Sour

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Art House On the castaway island of Muravandhoo, you’ll find the newly-opened JOALI Maldives. The archipelago’s first and only immersive art resort is festooned with beautiful ‘liveable’ artworks, including a manta ray treehouse, an underwater coral museum and elegant rose gold and marble design features, hand-crafted on the island by Turkish architect Autoban. joali.com

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Travel Notes

Explore the exotic in Cambodia, savour a Sling in Singapore and get your safari on in the Serengeti Compiled by LIZZIE POOK

INTO THE WILD

Icelandic Adventures

When it comes to spectacular architecture, The Lindis luxury lodge – with five eclecticallydesigned suites – is going to take some beating. Set on a 6000-acre plot of New Zealand’s pristine wilderness, and surrounded on three sides by conservation parks, the lodge offers the most tranquil of escapes, with magnificent flyfishing, hiking and horse riding spots on your doorstep too. thelindisgroup.com

NORDIC COOL Why not add a twist to Easter by heading off on a unique adventure across Iceland’s breathtaking landscapes? The five-day private tour, organised by luxury travel company Powder Byrne, includes bathing in the geothermal waters of the legendary Blue Lagoon, venturing into the heart of a volcano, exploring glaciers by snowmobile and puffin-spotting. Beats an egg hunt any day. powderbyrne.com

A MODERN CLASSIC

Following an extensive renovation process, the historic Raffles Singapore will re-open its filigreed doors in August 2019. Book ahead to ensure you’re one of the first to bed down in its opulent new suites, and reserve your spot at the hallowed, foliage-fringed Long Bar, which has been serving up Singapore Slings for over 100 years.

rafflessingapore.com

BAREFOOT LUXURY

Come winter, it’s almost ingrained in us seek out beautiful places to hole up in – preferably with a log burner and sweeping sea views. Ticking all those boxes is Barefoot Beach House in Camber Sands, available exclusively to rent through boutique holiday lettings agency Mulberry Cottages. Perched right on the beach and opening out onto private dune-flanked decking, this is the place for long evenings and warming winter cocktails.

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T R AV E L

OUT OF AFRICA

Island Song Cambodia is a beguilingly beautiful country steeped in history, and December sees it re-emerging onto must-visit lists with the opening of a new Six Senses property on jungly Krabey island. Comprising 40 elegant pool villas set across the lush, tropical island, there’ll be under and over-water activities on offer, as well as Six Sense’s multi-day ‘rejuvenation journeys’, ancient Cambodian healing treatments and wellness workshops.

sixsenses.com

Capturing the pioneering spirit of early explorers, but adapted for a luxury safari experience, Roving Bushtops is a camp that moves with the migrations. From its brand new spot in the Kusini area of the southern Serengeti, guests will get a ringside view of the upcoming calving season, where more than 8,000 baby wildebeest are born every day (and predators try their luck at a meal).

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Ski Special

Snow

PATROL When it comes to luxurious slopeside stays it doesn’t get more exclusive than Chalet N, which takes decadence to dizzying new heights in Austria’s Oberlech resort Words EMMA O’KELLY

f the unprecedented snowfall of last year is anything to go by, this winter promises a season of fresh air and even fresher powder. But with ski lodges ever more alluring, with indoor pools, spas, home cinemas and chic interiors, how do you choose the best retreat in which to cocoon yourself under a cashmere throw and sip vin chaud post-piste? Chalet N, in the Austrian resort of Oberlech, is the most expensive chalet in the world. It costs £490,000 a week at peak season and its impressive price tag comes down to instant access to some of Europe’s best skiing, flawless service and superior apres-ski amusements. Its location is certainly hard to beat. A lift from the chalet’s private ski depot, complete with heated boot racks, opens straight out onto 300km of the finest runs in the Alps. Instructors and guides are available all day, should you wish them to accompany you on one of the speedy, modern chair lifts from Oberlech to St. Anton, the chocolate-box village where alpine skiing was first invented, or to the crisp mountain resorts of St. Christoph, Stuben and Zürs.

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Snowboarders, walkers and heli-skiers (Chalet N staff can, of course, arrange the helicopter) add to what is a family-friendly and inclusive ski region and, since this is Austria, an aura of understated elegance rather than flashy sparkle cuts through the crisp air. Stop for a glühwein in a mountain hut and you’ll be served by waiters who still wear lederhosen. The Älpele is a firm favourite amongst those in the know; make your way to this remote restaurant by foot, horse sleigh or snow mobile for a candlelit feast of fondue and schnapps. Back at Chalet N, expect all the requisite luxuries that the price tag demands. Clad

in local timber and stone by builders from Lech, it may look a bit bigger, but certainly no more ostentatious, than any other ski lodge in Oberlech. It’s only when you’re inside, you realise this mountainside sanctuary is a byword for rarified opulence. And attention to detail. Tear yourself away from the (bulletproof ) windows, with their 360-degree snowy vistas, and luxuriate in living spaces with sofas that swallow you, bespoke lighting and hightech gizmos, designed by Austrian firm Landau+Kindelbacher. There’s also a billiards room and a home cinema, which comes with an extensive film library.

Outside, the vast open-air terrace and the jacuzzi are perfectly placed to soothe weary muscles and watch the sun throw late day shadows across the crumpled tin foil ridge of the Arlberg Massif. Steal some time between the slopes and predinner drinks in the salt-mine steam bath or sauna (Finnish or hay), before snoozing on the electric massage beds that sway gently like hammocks. Those for whom pounding the powder all day isn’t action enough there’s a hightech gym and an onsite personal trainer, while the indoor pool has an underwater Bose sound system and lights that dazzle in different hues. There are hydrotherapy

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T R AV E L LOOK CHIC ON

THE SLOPES

The

Holiday Edit

pools, and a spa with therapists and masseuses on hand. (Though if all this feels a bit too goody two-shoes, there’s also a cellar stacked with fine wines, a bounteous bar and more than 90 varieties of cigar.) All the chalet’s suites - sleeping 22 in total - feature roaring fires, exposed beams, the latest tech and walk-in wardrobes, while a fleet of staff work hard in the shadows to ensure this high standard of alpine luxe never slips. You’ll find your preferred bathroom potions in the shower and your initials embroidered on the pillow (there are seven types to choose from). And don’t expect just one

chocolate on said pillow, but a whole box, filled with your favourite flavours. The menu is whatever you want it to be. In-house chef Peter Oberrauch is wellversed in cooking for discerning palates, but since he is from South Tyrol, it’s worth trying his wiener schnitzel and kaiserschmarrn - a fluffy shredded pancake - washed down with a glass or two of Goblesberg. Then there’s the Walser Stüberl, a second dining-room dedicated specifically to fondue. The chalet organises ski gear and passes, but should you need a quick accessories update, it’s well worth a trip to Lech to the Strolz boutique. Lech shoemaker Ambros Strolz invented the modern ski boot in the 1920s and today the family business still makes bespoke orders and leather inner boots, while new season Moncler, Jet Set and Falke fill the aisles. Across the road, a separate hire shop has stateof-the-art skis and expert fitters who gauge your shoe size and gait. Yet, despite Lech’s shopping potential, it will be hard to stay away from Chalet N’s warming hearth for long. chalet-n.com

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FROM TOP: WESTWARD LEANING Stun D-frame sunglasses, £165; net-a-porter.com PERFECT MOMENT Merino Ski jumper, £200; farfetch.com MONCLER GRENOBLE Lamar quilted jacket, £860; net-a-porter.com COLMAR Spacerace ski pants, £209; colmar.it PERFECT MOMENT Allos ski suit, £590; net-a-porter.com COLMAR Ski gloves with leather inserts, £95; colmar.it MOON BOOT Faux-fur boots, £85; laredoute.co.uk FALKE SK4 cushioned ski socks, £32; matchesfashion.com

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Ski Special

High Life Nestled amongst majestic snow-capped peaks and twinkling alpine villages, these mountainside retreats go above and beyond when it comes to glamour (and gluhwein...) Words HARRIET COOPER

Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa San Cassiano, Italy Rosalpina.it

Set in the pretty resort of San Cassiano, in the Alta Badia ski region of the Dolomites, this family-run retreat is far from being quaint: think more along the lines of tyrolean tradition-meets-contemporary design. Eating is a big deal here; the hotel’s St Hubertus restaurant was awarded its third Michelin Star in the 2018 Guide - one of only nine restaurants in Italy to hold this accolade. The chef ’s table, with views into Norbert Niederkofler’s kitchen, is a must. For less

formal, the wood-fired pizzas in the Wine Bar & Grill have gained something of a reputation round these parts. Service throughout is personal and authentic - on arrival you’ll likely be greeted by owner Hugo himself, who’s always happy to impart his knowledge of the mountains. This year the hotel has introduced ‘mindful skiing’, an opportunity to escape other snow bunnies and glide through tranquil, snow-covered valleys and forests. Rosa Alpina is from €440 (around £386) per room, per night based on two adults sharing including breakfast, taxes and services, excluding tourist tax.

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Tschuggen Grand Arosa, Austria tschuggen.ch

Don’t be put off by the brutalist exterior of this five-star retreat. Instead, swivel your gaze to the adjoining Bond lair-esque glass structure of its Bergoase Spa (particularly impressive when illuminated at night). The hotel may have recently added to its 007 credentials by revamping its private funicular, which ferries guests to the slopes in state-ofthe-art cabins, but it is the 5000 m sq spa which steals the show here. Carved into the mountainside, over four levels, there’s sauna and steam, myriad treatment rooms, and a pool where you can swim directly from indoors to out.

Elsewhere, designer Carlo Rampazzi has refurbished the interiors in sumptuous style (you will covet the Hermes chairs), giving the place a grand, but friendly, vibe. You’ll equally find families here as you will couples, probably in the hotel’s Basement restaurant, which does an excellent fondue and comes with its own bowling lanes. Tschuggen Grand is from 635CHF (around £488) per room per night, based on two adults sharing a double room including breakfast.

Le Chalet Zannier

Megève, France zannierhotels.com/lechalet If you were to close your eyes and think of Heidi, this would be where she’d live - it’s the epitome of rustic comfort, though with a serious side of chic. Nestled in the mountains, the family-owned ski lodge (it belongs to uber-stylish French hotelier Arnaud Zannier) has 12 rooms and suites, set across three authentic chalets. The interior is simple yet sophisticated, a pleasing blend of traditional oak floors, washed linen furnishings and huge fireplaces. Don’t be fooled by the pared back feel: expect all the facilities and flawless service of a first-class hotel. Unknot achy muscles in the wellness centre or unwind with a glass of something warming at La Ferme de mon Père, where chef Julien Burlat prides himself on a menu that’s an ‘Alpine ode to nature’. Le Chalet Zannier is from €550 per room, per night. The entire property can also be taken on an exclusive basis. Price on application.

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Le Grand Bellevue, Gstaad, Switzerland bellevue-gstaad.ch

Unlike some of its more formal neighbours (you know the types: dark wood decor, heavy curtains, oil paintings at every turn), this mountainside hotel is less old-school luxury and more low-key, five-star cool. That’s all thanks to a year-long renovation by dynamic young owners Daniel and Davia Koetser who’ve injected life and soul into what is now dubbed the ‘Swiss Family Soho House’. House of Hackney wallpaper adorns the walls, while the art deco bar comes with a 17-metre long Chesterfield sofa. You’ll be able to indulge in hearty local fare and Michelin-starred menus, of course, but there’s also an onsite sushi bar. The hotel’s subterranean Le Grand Spa has everything you could wish for: pools, classes, treatments using Bamford and Cellcosmet products, a Thermal Oasis… there’s even a Salt Inhalation Grotto. Le Grand Bellevue is from 650CHF (around £500) per room, per night based on double occupancy on a half-board basis.

Deplar Farm,

Fljót Valley, Iceland Leotrippi.com For something totally other-worldly and far, far away from the crowds, Deplar Farm on the Troll Peninsula in the wild north of Iceland won’t disappoint. Getting to this off-the-grid Nordic number is an adventure in itself, either by navigating Arctic roads or by helicopter. The journey is worth it. The former sheep farm has been converted into an extraordinary, 13-room, grass-roofed retreat. Spend days heli-skiing, snowmobiling or cat skiing there’s whale-watching, hot spring hopping and surfing, too - before lying back in the outdoor geothermal infinity pool beneath (if you’re lucky) nature’s most spectacular light show, the Aurora Borealis. Highoctane adventuring over for the day, get cosy with fireside dinners, thermal baths where aperitifs are served as you soak, saltwater flotation tanks for meditation, and restorative yoga and spa sessions. Exclusive use of Deplar Farm starts at 3,676,050 ISK (around £23,344) per night based on 26 guests. This includes all meals, organic fresh food minibar, house alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages and airport transfers.

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HOME & INTERIORS

No Place Like Home Connoisseurs will want to make a beeline for the Design Museum’s thought-provoking Home Futures exhibition, which explores whether yesterday’s ideas about domestic living have become today’s realities. Curator Eszter Steierhoffer has collated more than 150 objects and ‘experiences’ for the show, putting such 20th-century prototypes as the Smithsons’ 1956 House of the Future up against current innovators like Dutch designer Jurgen Bey. By doing so, he poses the fascinating question: are we living in the way that pioneering architects and designers throughout the 20th-century predicted, or has our idea of home proved resistant to real change? Until 24 March designmuseum.org

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Design Notes

Nature-inspired homewares, a political teapot and the aesthete’s ultimate rocking chair

FELL FOR LEATHER

Patricia Urquiola and Marcel Wanders are just two of the creative luminaries who have contributed to Louis Vuitton’s first collection of decorative leather objects for the home. Les Petits Nomades, which is inspired by nature, includes vases made from petals and trays adorned with origami flowers, offering design devotees an accessible way to share the spirit of the French fashion house. louisvuitton.com

Compiled by ALI MORRIS

ROCK STAR

In a quest to create the perfect rocking chair, ethical Danish design brand Mater has collaborated with esteemed furniture maker Shawn Place. The resulting ‘Rocker’ is everything you’d imagine it would be: a combination of solid oak and full-grain vegetable tanned leather ticks the aesthetic box, while the chair’s old saddle belt design and traditional woodwork lend it a timeless feel. Perfect for cosy winter evenings by the fire. Rocker by Shawn Place for Mater, £1,694 Mater Earth Gallery, 36 Myddelton Street, Clerkenwell, EC1 materdesign.com

CAST AWAY

Metal powders and salts are the secret ingredients that give these cast cement sculptures their rock-like appearance. Made by Manchester artist Vic Wright, each unique piece is inspired by natural forming minerals and the idea that within a hard outer shell there is a hidden treasure to discover. Balancing Triple Coloured, £550; vicwrightstudio.co.uk

New store

WALLS OF WONDER Paint and wallpaper specialist Little Greene has opened its second London showroom in Chelsea. The smartlyappointed store on King’s Road offers a Colour Consultancy suite, complete with first-hand bespoke advice, as well as an on-site tinting and mixing machine, so you can create your dream shade in any colour and finish you desire.

310 King’s Road, Chelsea, SW3; littlegreene.com

TEA PARTY

Marking the centenary of women’s suffrage in the UK, Bella Freud has teamed up with artist Gillian Wearing and publisher Plinth to produce a capsule homeware collection that pays homage to suffragist Millicent Fawcett. Proceeds are donated to the Fawcett Society, who continue to fight for women’s rights. Suffragette City Teapot, £90; plinth.uk.com

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HOME & INTERIORS

MATCH MAKER Interiors expert and creative director Nick Vinson has long been an arbiter of style through his London-based design consultancy, Vinson&Co. is season, Nick has curated a cra smanship edit of limited-edition homewares for Matches Fashion from esteemed makers including Carl Auböck, Ted Muehling and John Pawson. Prices start at £78; matchesfashion.com

FROM TOP: CONNOLLY Clyde cashmere blanket, £2,400 LOBMEYR Alpha glass drinking set, £450 JOHN PAWSON Silver-plated teapot, £1,485 ROKSANDA X LINCK Ceramics Vase 34, £1,380 CARL AUBÖCK Hand-shaped brass corkscrew, £258

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Bella de Jour Bella Freud and Maria Speake have brought their design kudos to Television Centre, creating a chic, retro-inspired apartment in the heart of the White City complex Words HARRIET COOPER

ne is an idiosyncratic fashion designer, the other is co-founder of the architectural salvage and design studio Retrouvius. Little surprise, therefore, that the recent collaboration between Bella Freud and Maria Speake is being heralded as a tour de force. The creative duo – who both hail from west London and have been friends for over a decade, having worked together previously on the revamp of two of Freud’s homes, as well as her flagship store on Chiltern Street, Marylebone – have just completed the interior of Helios 710, a three-bedroom, two-storey penthouse in The Helios, the ring-shaped Grade II listed building at Television Centre, the former BBC HQ-turned-uberluxe residential and living complex in White City.

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HOME & INTERIORS

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The modern hub - once a powerhouse of creative broadcasting, where the likes of Blue Peter and Doctor Who were filmed for generations - reopened last Spring, as part of an £8 billion regeneration of the area, and includes sleek apartments (Helios 710 being one), restaurants and private members club White City House, an offshoot of Soho House offering all the usual Nick Jones magic, including a rooftop pool, cinema and ginormous gym. “This was a wonderful opportunity for myself and Maria to collaborate on another project, this time to explore my fantasy home,” Freud reveals. “Television Centre is an iconic part of west London’s history, which has been intertwined with my own life. The developers were keen for this apartment to be rooted in west London style, which my designs have become synonymous with, so it seemed like a natural fit”. It’s a dream pairing: while Speake has worked on Speake high-profile design projects Maria and Bella Freud for a discerning clientele for over a quarter of a century, Freud is beloved by the fashion set for her irreverent, quirky style, notably her cult knitwear with slogans like ‘Ginsberg is God’ and ‘Je t’aime Jane’. As well as creating something that complemented the design integrity of the mid-century modern Helios building, the pair’s objective was to convey a strong sense of home. So when they conceived a look for the 2,202 sq ft duplex apartment, with its stunning views of the London skyline, it was with Freud’s family pad in mind. Indeed, walk round the penthouse and the first thing you’ll notice is the 1970s vibe: infused with vibrant hues and eclectic flourishes, the interiors epitomise the rock and roll allure of Freud’s cool-girl fashion label. “Many of the colours we used are ones that appear in Bella’s own home,” Speake explains. “The overall aesthetic idea was to create a look and feel that was elegant and calm, sexy and spacious. It was also designed to be a place where you feel as comfortable spending time alone or with

a group of friends. Whenever Bella and I make a decision about a room, our conversations tend to be about how wonderful a certain colour is, or about a beautiful piece of ceramics or artwork, rather than focusing on the functional elements.” “Both the apartment and my fashion collection share key cultural references; bold colour, eclecticism, the glamour of the 1970s,” adds Freud. “The material palette also echoes that of my label, for instance, corduroy is a great texture and has become part of the overall signature for the interiors.” It is a masterclass in colour - the sitting room pops with angelica green, while the master bedroom has been painted deep ruby, a striking contrast to its lipstick red carpet; though up the cantilevered staircase the kitchen and adjoining snug offers a more muted palette with fluted-marble walls, timber-panelling and cork walls. The 1970s are a key reference in the furniture, too, which is vintage, and

sourced through Speake’s extensive connections. Cesca chairs by Marcel Breuer line the hallway and a coffee table by Wily Rizzo sits pride of place in the living area, surrounded by vintage lacquer seating. “It’s a bit porny, rock ‘n’ roll and Seventies. We didn’t want it to look quaint, we chose pieces that amused us and caught our eye,” Speake said at the apartment launch. Cushions, rugs and wallhangings - the result of a collaboration between Freud and The Rug Company - adorn the apartment, many of which duplicate the slogans and motifs from her signature sweaters, while carefullycurated artwork also adds a personal touch. “There’s history to all of the pieces we have chosen for the space,” continues Speake. “They have a great deal of heart and veer away from being formulaic. Bella is a big fan of Eliza Hopewell a young ceramics artist from South London, whose plates hang on one of the walls. And the raffia and brass wall provides the perfect backdrop for British-Canadian photographer Lorena Lohr’s work.” Op-art prints by Jacob Wolff mesmerise in the hallway and bathroom. The apartment - one of five designs by architects Piercy&Company for the most premium apartments in the scheme: The Architects’ Series - currently has a price tag of £3,925,000, providing any potential buyer with the very first chance to purchase a space designed by the Freud-Speake combo. Though, according to Freud, it might not be the last: “I like the idea that I can take fashion into different worlds. I have developed my fashion label into homeware accessories - blankets, cushions, rugs and it would be a natural evolution to progress this. The nice thing about designing an apartment is that you can see how someone might add to it, we’ve been fantasising about what the next project might be, a hotel perhaps?” To arrange a viewing of Helios 710, visit televisioncentre.com

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L A S T WO R D

MY GLOSSARY SOPHIE ELLIS-BEXTOR

Singer Sophie Ellis-Bextor opens her little black book to the capital from feasting on sushi to stolen nights spent in Soho As told to HARRIET COOPER HOME IS Ravenscourt Park in west London. I grew up in the area; I love it because it’s so green and my mum Janet [Ellis, the former Blue Peter presenter] is only ten minutes away.

J. SHEEKEY

FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS For somewhere special I like to go old-school, like J Sheekey in Covent Garden for lobster and chips. During the week, I head to my local Sushi Bar Makoto on Turnham Green Terrace, where I always order the Sushi & Sashimi mix set lunch. On Sundays we go The Swan in Chiswick, they do the best roasts.

FAVOURITE HOTEL I’ve always thought that staying in a hotel in the city you live in is both decadent and really quite romantic. My husband Richard [Jones, bassist with band The Feeling] and I had a brilliant stolen night in the Dean Street Townhouse once. Waking up and getting breakfast in Soho was wonderful. BEST COCKTAIL Anywhere that does a good Margarita, though it has to have salt around the rim please. Wahaca do a good authentic Mexican one. I’m a member of Soho House - all their clubs consistently serve excellent cocktails. LATEST DISCOVERY We recently had an amazing supper with the London Shell Co. which serves British seafood while you travel along DAVID HOCKNEY, PORTRAIT OF AN ARTIST (POOL WITH TWO FIGURES), 1972

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the Regent’s Canal in central London. It was magical. EXHIBITION THAT MOST IMPRESSED The David Hockney retrospective at Tate Britain last year was incredible, I spent hours there. The Gillian Wearing/Claude Cahun show at the National Portrait Gallery was interesting as it showed how a contemporary artist brought out the modernity in Claude Cahun’s work. FAVOURITE GALLERY I’m always happy just to be seeing some art. I really like Royal Academy and the V&A. I don’t have a favourite artist - I’m more interested in how shows are curated, so you can see the artist behind the art. If it’s good art and it’s brought to life, anything from any era can be exciting. FAVOURITE LANDMARK I’m always blown away by St. Paul’s Cathedral. It’s so beautiful and the scale of it all, especially the dome, is awesome. I was lucky enough to perform there once, and it’s an amazing place to sing in unamplified. FASHION DESIGNERS My go-to designers include Ashish, Erdem, and Temperley London who all make beautiful pieces. I also like smaller independent designers including Rock the Jumpsuit, which is great for vintage-inspired jumpsuits, and Rosa Bloom for full-on, sequinned, stage-ready wonderment. VINTAGE FINDS I browse for vintage in markets like Portobello Road, as well as the little shops

round there, and along Camden Passage in Islington. I love vintage because of the back story to each thing and the fact that it’s an inexpensive way to walk your own path.

ME AS CAHUN HOLDING A MASK OF MY FACE BY GILLIAN WEARING, 2012

FAVOURITE INDEPENDENT SHOP I go to deli Bayley & Sage on Turnham Green Terrace for their eclectic range of cheeses. FAVOURITE FLORIST I always enjoy walking through the Great Marlborough Street entrance at Liberty; the Nikki Tibbles Wild at Heart florist there always smells, and looks, amazing. SIGNATURE SCENT I love a floral scent that isn’t too artificial, my current favourite is Jo Malone Red Roses Cologne. MY BEAUTY BUYS I always wear sun cream as I’m so pale - the best is Sisley Super Soin Solaire. MAC is my go-to for lipsticks - Vegas Volt and Lady Danger are my signature colours; and I am a fan of Charlotte Tilbury’s Airbrush Flawless Finish Powder and her Feline Flick Eyeliner Pen. If I want to pamper myself, I turn to Aromatherapy Associates and Elemis for their bath oils and indulgent body creams. MY HAIRDRESSER I have my hair done about once a year at Kell Skött on Lambton Place in Westbourne Grove. I just have a trim and a dark brown colour. It’s where my mum goes, too.

LONDON SHELL CO.

FAVOURITE TREATMENT With four boys, and another baby on the way, I don’t have much time to go for treatments but I just had the Peaceful Pregnancy Massage at the House of Elemis in Lancashire Court, Mayfair, and it was blissful.

DEAN STREET TOWNHOUSE

Sophie’s new album The Song Diaries is out on 15 March. sophieellisbextor.net ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL

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professional hair, care & styling www.balmainhair.com

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The Glossary Winter 2018/19

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