A Botanist Walks into a Bar

Photographed by Silas Fallstich Written by Kim Hashemi

As the workday comes to a close, my mind starts thinking cocktails over lattes, skirts over dress pants. And with that, I grab a friend and head to the newly opened Glass House cocktail garden. Dimly lit and with perimeters decorated by a variety of plants, finding the cocktail garden is a slight challenge (even while on State Street) yet adds to the experience like we’re discovering a secret garden. Entering the gates of Glass House, we feel as if we’ve just stepped into Narnia, our curiosity for what lies ahead grows swiftly.

I’m graciously greeted by owner Alvaro Rojas, who also runs milk & honey tapas and Alcazar Tapas Bar. He explains that it’s inspired by David Fairchild so the lounge is openly sectioned and meticulously designed to echo various parts of his journey as a botanist. Between the Middle East, French Colonial, and mid-century Manhattan themed spaces, we opt for the shabby chic Parisian décor. Styled with an aquaponics tub, a salon settee sofa, a vintage chess set, and an abundance of plants, our first drink takes place at the large wooden communal table, giving us the opportunity to mingle with other guests. Our server comes by to greet us and my first question is, “Why is there a bathtub in here?” With a grin he explains that some of the ingredients gathered for cocktails are grown aquaponically in Santa Barbara County, and that the bathtub will be used to house a vertical aquaponics garden. Being relatively familiar with various farming practices, aquaponics was one neither my friend nor I had heard about. Alvaro explains, “Aquaponics employs fish in the water, the urea from the fish and the bacteria impart nutrients onto the plants, and the plants filter the water for the fish. What you get is almost beyond organic. We grow in a mesh netting so things like cabbage moss doesn’t get to it, and the plants are getting nutrients straight from the water. The kale we pull from our garden is silky.” Interesting how farming practices are so much more intriguing when related to cocktails.

Our brief lesson (one we asked for) should be followed by a drink, right? We think so. Being one who typically leans towards spice over sweetness, the Prickle My Fancy cocktail, well, prickled my fancy. Arriving in a circular glass bulb, it boasts a vibrant pink color, with a layer of frothed egg whites floating atop, garnished with edible flowers to add a burst of color. We are both led to think, “Is this too cute to drink?” Probably, but the enticing aromas draw us in. With the first sip, flavors of mezcal and dark rum begin to dance in my mouth accompanied by notes of fresh lime, ginger, and prickly pear. As I set my drink down, my taste buds are invigorated by a kick of habanero that seems to have been taking a back seat only to appear for an exclusive acclaim. As the last blast of habanero subsides, it’s clear to me that presentation and creativity are at the forefront of the minds of Alvaro Rojas and Kyle Peete, who is the cocktail specialist and creator of Glass House’s menu.

Feeling relief that our workdays seem hours behind and being mentally transported to a lush garden in the middle of France leads us to indulge in our next cocktail, Smoke Break. After a few minutes of brushing up our chess skills with the chess set provided at our table, a pungent aroma seizes our attention which quickly reveals to be our attentive host walking over with a silver tray bearing a glass smoked with a coaster made from Cutler’s bourbon barrels alongside a decanter. Our olfactory senses are enlightened by the aroma trapped inside of each glass. The smoke fills the air as our glasses are set on the table, and next comes the glorious pour of Cutler’s Stagecoach, cognac, scotch, and sherry blended with vanilla and cinnamon to create a spirit composed of woody, sweet and earthy notes—a cocktail combination that I personally had not experienced until this moment.

As we arrive at the last sip of our drinks, we notice an empty seat in the Middle East designed portion of the garden, and feel galvanized to experience our final cocktail amongst Latika lanterns, poufs, and patterned rugs. By now, our minds and taste buds are fully illuminated and it seems as though limits when it comes to cocktail creativity do not exist, so naturally, we ask our host to select our final cocktail.

As we sink comfortably into our seats, our attention is diverted to the cloche that arrives to our table. Our cheerful host lifts the cloche to unleash a spiced earth aroma, and as the smoke subsides, it reveals a spiced pear, fino sherry, and burlesque bitters ice cube bathing in pear brandy, vodka, Cocchi Rossa, bourbon vanilla cranberry, and genmaicha tea. Concurrently, my friend and I thread our fingers through the ears of the teacups and take our first sips of the Church Bell cocktail. Citrus notes of dimmi, hints of saffron and vanilla from Cocchi Rossa and the earthy notes of bourbon vanilla make an initial impression and the carbonated texture of the cocktail adds an element of surprise and satisfaction. As the spiced pear ice cube melts into the cranberry genmaicha tea cocktail it seems to blend the flavors seamlessly, and the fino sherry leaves a pleasant aftertaste of almonds on the palate.

Spending a few hours at Glass House reminds me of the talent and creativity that encompasses many of the restaurants in this breathtaking city. With an emphasis placed on sustainability and local ingredients, coupled with a menu exclusively of noteworthy cocktails, it’s clear that a visit back to Glass House is in the cards. * glasshousecocktails.com