Looking Forward to Fall

by b rooke k elly M urray & e lizabeth M eigher

The best of the Fall/Winter 2023 shows during New York Fashion Week in February.

A model in LoveShackFancy’s FW23 Curtis Silk-Lame Mini Dress in light pink. Clockwise from top left: Models backstage; Rebecca Hessel Cohen with her daughters; a model in LoveShackFancy’s FW23 Calida Dress; Kate Bartlett and Luca Mornet; Rocky Barnes and Danielle Bernstein; a model in LoveShackFancy’s FW23 Clarks Double-Breasted Wool Coat and matching Rooney Wool Mini Skirt; Kit Keenan.

LoveShackFancy LoveShackFancy’s Fall/Winter 2023 show at The Plaza Hotel was a celebration of femininity. Charming décor filled the venue, featuring roses, confetti, and balloons in delightful shades of pink. This brand has always been synonymous with all things girly and whimsical, so it’s no surprise that it was founded by Creative Director Rebecca Hessel Cohen in 2013 after designing enchanting bridesmaid dresses for her own fairytale wedding. Since then, the company has evolved into a premier brand known for flattering silhouettes in delicate hues, intricate lace, whimsical hand-dyed fabrics, and vintage-inspired romantic floral prints. It has captured the hearts of many, particularly Gen-Z consumers who are drawn to its playful and youthful appeal.

Cohen’s latest collection, named “Rebel Rose,” is a testament to the brand’s growth and evolution, showcasing a LoveShackFancy girl who has matured and experienced life’s adventures. “[She] isn’t so naïve anymore; she’s fallen in love, been the last one on the dance floor,” Cohen explained. The collection features the brand’s signature princess-like silhouettes but also incorporates edgier looks that represent the LoveShackFancy girl’s newfound maturity. Drawing inspiration from London’s Portobello Market and Savile Row, the collection features plaid suiting and sculptural taffeta, black velvet, and 19th-century lace.

Models flaunted the brand’s expanding outerwear and knitwear offerings, which were beautifully layered with ultra-feminine dresses and separates. One show-stopping piece was a statement Mongolian shearling that draped over a cream embroidered lace tank and ultra-cropped mini skirt with crystal button details. The looks were diverse, with standout pieces like a short black velvet military jacket paired with an ivory peplum Victorian lace top and sequin flare trousers, low-rise plaid tailored pants worn with a crystal and pearl-embroidered Duchess satin top, a camel and pink plaid tailored coat atop a habotai and tulle dress, and a plaid boyfriend blazer worn over a Victorian dot embroidered tulle ruffle mini dress. The collection showcases LoveShackFancy’s ability to evolve while staying true to its unique and whimsical aesthetic.

Alice + Olivia For Alice + Olivia’s Fall/Winter 2023 presentation, Creative Director Stacey Bendet invited women to celebrate the innovation, glamour, and utter coolness of American fashion throughout modern history. The collection nods to the iconic moments and movements forged right here at home. “I find that fashion is often looking elsewhere for inspiration, but, in fact, America is where a lot of forward fashion eras took place: We created denim, we moved fashion into contemporary design, we created social media and lead the way for what defines pop culture and trend,” said Bendet. Upon entering Highline Stages, guests were taken down memory lane. The venue was decorated with American art in various settings, from a backdrop featuring of Andy Warhol’s Campbell’s chicken noodle soup, to a ’90s Jeep that took centerstage.

American fashion moments dating back to the 1950s are heavily imbued in the collection, from ’50s ball gown skirts and corsets to ’70s bells and brocades. Models donned a reimagined version of the iconic pin-up dress with punk-rock elements, including tulle and black cotton lace manufactured by America’s last-standing lace suppliers. References to Truman Capote’s swans were also present in the show, as shown by the use of a glamorous multi-colored brocade opera coat and elongated dress trains. We also noticed motifs of Hollywood glamour, including a vibrant red chiffon dress equipped with a dramatic flowing scarf and opera gloves. ’90s grunge was another common theme throughout the show, showcased in dramatic leather flair pants and vegan studded moto-jackets further detailed with luxe crystal trims. The collection incorporates several worlds of American fashion all while making them feel modern. “This was never about one singular icon. It was about all sorts of women being icons,” said Bendet.

< Cynthia Rowley Known for her playful collections, fashion de signer Cynthia Rowley brought her love of humor to the runway for New York Fashion Week. Rowley presented an hour of standup, welcoming some of the biggest names in comedy to the stage. The all-female show was hosted by Esther Ku and featured acts by comedians including Nikki Glaser, Rachel Feinstein, Arden Myrin, Rosebud Baker, Claudia Oshry, Ego Nwodim, and Michelle Buteau, among others. All performers were dressed in clothes by Cynthia Rowley, with each outfit specifically tailored to suit their personalities. The looks were designed using references from the Fall/Winter 2023 collection, including giant pastel paillettes, loads of sheer fabrics, and classically tailored pick-stitch pieces rendered in the brand’s signature sport fabric.

In a world where humor is more important than ever, Rowley’s decision to combine fashion and comedy feels like a breath of fresh air. “I see fashion and comedy serving women in the same way,” said Rowley. “If you can be funny, you can feel confident. If you love what you’re wearing you feel confident. And if you can have both, even better.” A sense of humor has been part of the brand’s DNA since the beginning, and Rowley’s mission to bring joy through each collection remains as strong as ever. “I start each day with 10 minutes of stand-up,” said Rowley. “I’ve long said I wish fashion were funnier. Not necessarily the clothes, but the attitude,” said Rowley.

Returning to the space where Barney’s Downtown once was, sisters-in-law Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard delivered a runway show that they referred to as “one of the most important they’ve ever done.” A special guest—English singer Suki Waterhouse—descended from a spiral staircase and strolled through the crowd singing “Neon Signs,” in a playful nod to the launch of Veronica Beard’s new logo, which was boldly illuminated against a back wall throughout the show. Along with its new logo, the brand introduced a new crest, which was sprinkled throughout the new collection on buttons, blazers, and even on fur. For their latest lineup, the Veronicas embraced their love of the uniform while reimagining all-American prep. Equal parts effortless and luxe, think campus-style, but a little bit rock ‘n’ roll. The collection includes oversized varsity sweaters and schoolboy blazers paired with matching miniskirts and shorts. For day, tailored denim and neutral separates, while velvet suits in shades of ruby and black provide romantic alternatives to a typical dress for evening. Since launching in 2009, the Veronicas have maintained a strong sense of who their woman is—largely because they’ve remained true to themselves and their own sense of personal style. An ever present force at all of their presentations and on their runways, when the Veronicas put on a show, not only do they focus on their editors and buyers—but also on their customers.

Clockwise from top left: Female comedians on-stage during Cynthia Rowley’s FW23 show; Rachel Winters; Jane Krakowski; Kit Keenan and Gigi Powers; Cynthia Rowley; Audrey Trullinger and Brigette Pheloung. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Suki Waterhouse sings “Neon Signs” at Veronica Beard’s FW23 runway show; a denim look; Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard; a mono velvet skirt suit; knee-high socks and shorts reflect the campus prep theme; Amy Julliette Lefévre and Jelena Weir; black and white houndstooth mixed with a floral print; Mary Leest wearing lavender Veronica Beard.

Carolina Herrera Prior to its Fall 2023 runway show at the Plaza Hotel’s grand ballroom, Carolina Herrera released program notes to attendees—setting the tone for the new collection and offering guests an idea of what to expect. The theme, the brand explained, was “extreme opulence.” Carolina Herrera’s creative director, Wes Gordon, has always been a proponent of showstoppers and making women feel happy, beautiful, and joyful. For this show, Gordon had a personal reason to feel especially joyful, as he and his husband had just welcomed their second child, a little girl, a week earlier. With his latest collection Gordon envisioned the Carolina Herrera woman transforming into a modern Empress, celebrating her unabashed appreciation for beauty and glamour, like Empress Elizabeth of Austria (best known as “Empress Sisi”) centuries earlier. In tune with the release of the Netflix series The Empress, which centers around the 19th century Viennese court of Sisi of Austria, he identified with Sisi because “the same combination is what made Mrs. Herrera and what made the house—that discipline and severity with the flamboyance.” Think sculpted shapes in bold stripes, and shades of lemon yellow and berry pink. Dainty floral and brocade patterns appeared on bell-shaped silhouettes, and neatly tailored capes in red silk and chartreuse felt elegant and fresh. On the more opulent side was a regal looking, black strapless dress covered in jeweled embroidery (trimmings fit for an empress). A winter white dress, jacket, and skirt suit were similarly bejeweled. A floral-print gown fearlessly banded with black stripes seemed like classic Carolina Herrera with an edge, while black and emerald ball skirts, and cascading layers of tulle reminded viewers why the iconic house remains a leader in traditional formal wear.

Micheal Kors Michael Kors’ moodboard for his Fall/Winter 2023 collection was covered in all of his favorite style icons from the 1970s: Ali MacGraw, Gloria Steinem, Cher, Tina Turner, Lena Horne, Jane Fonda… along with a news clipping of his own mother Joan, a feminist and athlete who made the paper when she tried to try out for the Philadelphia Eagles. “These are my influencers,” read a cheeky social media caption. “The women who intrigued me then and still intrigue me today are the women who break the rules,” Kors said in a pre-show press conference. “They’re strong, powerful, smart [and] happy to admit that they love fashion.” Kors has always loved the ’70s and he’s at his best when he draws upon the American sportswear of the era, with its clean lines, laid-back elegance, and unflappable swagger. The ’70s rocked and rolled down the runway at Lincoln Center in the form of micro shorts and knee-high boots (featuring lots of bare leg in between), low-riding hip belts, short fringe dresses, and amplified bell bottoms—with a key difference between then and now being the materials that Kors chose for his current designs. The fringe is composed of a resilient bonded suede, allowing it to shimmy well into 2070, and two show-stopping, floor-length sequin jumpsuits in silvery gray and muted gold are jersey stitched with micro sequins, achieving glam that also happens to be comfortable (not scratchy). With his latest collection Kors reminded his audience of the considerable value in designing what you know. Relaxed double-breasted blazers, sumptuous camel coats, smartly tailored suits—a bevy of sleek, monochromatic looks had audience members appreciatively nodding with approval. Season after season, Kors fortifies his legacy as one of American fashion’s iconic designers, much like the icons who inspired his current collection. u