Road Trip to the Past

By James Krick

Being something of a Middle East travel junkie, I am obsessed with its history, culture and diversity. It has led me to explore it quite extensively over the years. I was shocked to discover I had missed an ancient trading route, one of the arteries of the Levantine world leading to the famed hidden capital of Petra.

The King’s Highway is an ancient route dating back to pre-Biblical times that crosses from Egypt to Syria. The best-preserved section of this route through history lies in the Kingdom of Jordan.

Many people imagine Jordan is largely made up of sweeping sand dunes crossed by camels and their Bedouin herders. However, they may be shocked to discover that Amman, Jordan’s capital (and the starting point for a road trip) resembles a Mediterranean metropolis. Although this was not my first visit there, it wouldn’t be complete without taking in the sights of the Roman ruins. The amphitheatre and the citadel above them have jaw-dropping, 360-degree views of the surrounding hills and its souqs whose sights and aromas offer an authentic taste of Arabian culture.

When it comes to food, Amman doesn’t disappoint. It has become a fine dining hub with many high-end restaurants offering some of the best Levantine cuisine in the world. However, for an original taste of Jordan, I found the humble Al Quds falafel shop offers a fantastic taste of an Arabic staple. The delicious street snack was ideal as I prepared for the next stage of my journey in the footsteps of kings.

The journey out of Amman on the King’s Highway takes you through several villages and towns still following a traditional way of life that has existed for centuries. Whilst the modern world is certainly present, you get a sense you are travelling through the veins of history when driving down the highway.

I reached the city of Madaba not long after leaving Amman. It’s an absolute treasure trove of places to see, including a Byzantine mosaic that took my breath away. It depicts a map of the Holy Land as seen in the 6th century. It’s a fascinating glimpse of the past.

A short drive out from Madaba, getting to Mount Nebo means a slight deviation from the highway, but worth the detour. This is where Moses reportedly first saw the Holy Land revealed to him. It is now marked by a Byzantine chapel with spectacular views down to the Dead Sea and to Israel beyond.

Arriving next in Kerak, I found a small city built around Kerak Castle, an absolutely pristine example of a crusader fortress and one of the greatest examples of medieval castles still in existence. Dating back to the 1140s, it was built by the Kingdom of Jerusalem to guard its supply route between Egypt and Damascus.

As the highway took me south from Kerak, I noticed the change in the terrain. The trees and foliage of Amman gradually gave way to the desert with sand-covered plains stretching out on either side as far as the eye could see. I was now beginning the final leg of my three-day adventure to find the lost capital. Very little can prepare you for what awaits when you enter Petra. The initial trek took me through the Siq, a narrow canyon with dramatic, sheer cliffs on either side. This canyon then opened up to reveal a truly breathtaking sight – the Treasury, made famous by Indiana Jones films.

It marks the entrance to the ancient city which stretched back some seven kilometres. Upon seeing the lost city for the first time, you certainly understand why it is referred to as the one of the Seven New Wonders of the World. I found Petra has an overwhelming array of places to explore with the ‘Rose City’ hiding something new around every corner.

I couldn’t take in all that Petra offered in just one day. Fortunately, the area boasts some unique accommodation options, including a stay in a cave inside Petra itself or sleeping in a luxury bubble tent in the desert hills above the site.

Over the course of my road trip, I discovered Jordan is one of the most fascinating and culturally rich countries in the region. And there is no better way to experience it than by travelling the King’s Highway as the titans of history have done for centuries before.

If you’d rather be accompanied by an expert local guide on your journey through wonderful Jordan, Intrepid Travel offers an eight-day Premium adventure exploring the country’s most spectacular sights. From days spent uncovering the secrets of Petra – one of the most striking sites in the area – to taking in all the colours of sunrise in the Wadi Rum desert and so much more, prepare to be swept away by the vistas and Jordan’s storied past. And beyond the landscapes and history, this itinerary promises authentic encounters with local people – full of heart and deep-rooted tradition. Soak in the Bedouin culture as you enjoy a traditional dinner cooked in a zarb (underground oven) and take part in a Beit Sitti cooking class and dinner in Amman.

More once-in-a-lifetime, authentic experiences await. Contact your travel advisor to start planning your journey.