INTERVIEW WITH 1X1 STUDIO . MENTAL HEALTH . JOHN HUGHES FILMS & FASHION . LFWM TRENDS . DRAGCON
CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY . ART SCHOOL . E.TAUTZ . EDWARD CRUTCHLEY . MISS WORLD . 2020 PARADE
ISSUE 46 27TH JANUARY 2020
THE REMODELLING ISSUE
RRP £9.99
LONDON RUNWAY
CONTRIBUTORS Chief Editor: Rhiannon D'Averc - editor@londonrunway.co.uk Editorial Assistant: Candice Wu - info@londonrunway.co.uk Staff Photographers: Ian Clark, Fil Mazzarino, Hassan Saif Lead Graphic Designer: Alex Panek Staff Graphic Designers: Lauren Rowley Advertising enquiries - info@londonrunway.co.uk Submissions - info@londonrunway.co.uk Contributors: Madisen Crandall, Lana Lermontova, Sonya Baileys, Marie Dashkova, Daria Arendt, Marina Vasilevskaya, Edward, Nastya, Jhow Ferso, Jeneba Badsa, Laia Fernandez, Aitor Regidor Vallcanera, Rafael Putasso, Aleksei Ivanov, Belen March, Eugenia Martsynovich, Maria Henry, Grace Pickford, Jeannine Spielhofer, Bianca Haller, Pablo Acosta, Anais Marthaler, Gloria Punchera, Annick Robatel, Christoph Marti, World of Wonder/Getty, Anna Mundet, Mar Salesan, Joel Leiva, Carla Aymat, Mrityunjoy Mitra, Purple PR Special thanks to Yi Ling of 1x1 Studio
Interested in working with us? We currently have internships available in the following positions: Staff Writers Graphic Designers Send your CV and covering letter to info@londonrunway.co.uk
Š 2020, London Runway Ltd and contributors Printed by Micropress and distributed in-house by London Runway Ltd London distributors: The Model Workshops London at 40 Cumberland Road, N22 7SG All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in London Runway are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.
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CONTENTS
20 VISUALS
75 WORDS
8on8 by GQ, Art School, Astrid Andersen, Bethany Williams
7
LFWM Trend Report
4
20
Do Creatives Suffer More With Their Mental Health?
17
Deep Within (Cover Editorial) Munn
29
41
New Faces
33
Pretty in Pink: How John Hughes' Films Captured the Style of a Generation
Portfolio Piece
39
Top 10 Instagram Accounts for a Happy Scroller
56
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, E-Tautz, Pronounce, Lou Dalton
44 DragCon RuView
71
Style (Conscious) Guide: Recycled Elements
55
Interview: 1x1 Studio
87
Your Style Horoscope
97
Swiss Made (Editorial)
60 The Big Question
114
Plastic Society (Editorial)
75
Vinti Andrews, Stefan Cooke
88
Miss World 2019
91
Edward Crutchley, Jordan Luca
92
London New Year's Day Parade
101
Studio ALCH, Tokyo James, Per Gotesson, Bianca Saunders
104
s ' r o t i d E ter t e l Here we are, plunging ahead into the new year already. 2020 didn't have the most auspicious of starts at the global level, but we hope you've been having a better time of it. Let's kick this new year off right away with a reminder and update of our pledges for 2020. We promised to increase the sustainability of London Runway as a business, and to increase our representation of diverse models, designers, and creatives in our pages and on our cover. I'm going to keep you updated on these goals as the year goes on, so that you can hold us accountable. There has been a lot of controversy over the past couple of years around greenwashing, in which companies pay lip service to eco-friendly policies but never actually put them into practice. The same can be said of diversity targets, which still see many women paid less than their male counterparts and minorities not getting the representation they deserve. The Oscar nominations list for this year is a clear example. We don't want to be like those companies - we say what we mean and we intend to carry out our promises.
First, then, a word on sustainability. Towards the tail end of 2019 we implemented a new policy of preorders from our website for physical copies, a move which has allowed us to cut down on wastage whilst still guaranteeing the best possible price for you, our readers. I'm happy to say that this has been a great success. Our last two issues fully sold out not long after launching, and we have no spare copies remaining at our HQ. Our next steps include looking into more eco-friendly packaging for our magazines when they are shipped out to you - something we are already in discussions about with a supplier - and finding eco-friendly uses for back issues which still remain in stock. In the meantime, we've got them all on sale, so head to londonrunway.co.uk and select 'buy' from the menu if you'd like to get your hands on a bargain. As for diversity, we're working on it with conscious choices in regards to editorials, show coverage, and covers. This issue is dedicated to the menswear
shows from LFWM, which were a treat to watch and offered plenty of interesting new takes. More on that in our summary of the event, coming up in just a few pages. Are you a model, photographer, or designer from a minority background? We'd like to remind you - and anyone else - that we take submissions of photographic work online through kavyar.com/london-runway-magazine - including for our New Faces and Portfolio Piece features. Show us what you've got - we'd love to have you. We also welcome diverse voices to our writing team: we run internships of three months or more all year round, and we're always interested to hear your take on things. The details for our internships and any available positions can always be found on the contributors page. Alright, that's enough babbling from me - let's get this 2020 started, shall we? Enjoy -
RHIANNON D'AVERC
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LONDON RUNWAY
LFWM TREND REPORT Rhiannon D'Averc recaps some of the main trends from menswear's fashion week this January.
BRIGHT COLOURS AND CAMOUFLAGE
ALTERNATIVE MODELS
You wouldn't imagine that there were two trends more different than bright colours and camo - one designed to hide, another designed to make you stand out. However, both of these looks had their place on the LFWM catwalk in spades.
There were a lot of trends that made their mark this London Men's Fashion Week, and one of them had to be the choice of models. Brands and designers are more and more waking up to the reality that we don't all have the same body type (well, duh). Changes are being made across the board, with online retailers like ASOS showcasing different-sized models to sell their products, but the catwalk is always a little slower to catch up.
Bethany Williams put both of these looks together, while the vast majority of catwalks were awash with colour. While there were some who chose to stick to a muted palette - like Art School's reliance on black and white, or
the shades of grey at Eastwood Danso others went wild. Bold oranges and soft, yet strong, blues claimed the most attention. Pink is also having a real menswear moment. Don't be afraid to wear more feminine shades - they are all on offer, from bright magentas and fuschias to baby pink and coral. Our best tip? Opt for either one or two bold statement accessories, or, if you're feeling confident, go ahead and grab a full-body outfit in a shade of tangerine. It's instantly grammable, turns heads, and will show that you know your stuff. Separates can be toned down for outfits when the trend is over.
At LFWM, it feels like there is more room for experimentation. Many designers are already breaking the 'rules' by showing both menswear and womenswear, while some are daring enough to show womenswear only. Once one of the pillars has been knocked down, why not go the whole hog and break a few others while you're at it? 8ON8 showcased plus sized models, Art School had their archetypal mix of models drawn from more regular people - birthmarks, odd shapes and all - and Lou Dalton put no limit on age. Also at Lou Dalton, a Sikh model complete with turban joined the lineup. Meanwhile, paria/FARZANEH based the whole show around a cultural exploration, with a juxtaposition between a traditional Iranian ceremony and a very English boys school. No matter the brand, there was plenty of diversity on show. Maybe the main LFW catwalks could take a little inspiration from all of this - we'll keep an eye on what they're up to.
Lou Dalton; Art School; 8on8 by GQ; Pronounce: photographed by Fil Mazzarino
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LONDON RUNWAY
GENDER MIXING The catwalks at LFWM are, as previously mentioned, liable to host just as many female models as male. Perhaps that's why the gender-orientated fashion here is a bit more fluid too. Charles Jeffrey Loverboy sent out male models in fancy froufrou dresses that told a symphony of ruffles and feathers. Long, satin scarves were draped around necks at 8on8 by GQ, and a long tunic transitioned easily into skirts elsewhere. As for the female models? They were just as at home in utilitarian boiler suits and tailored
trousers as they were in skirts and dresses.
these trends, then make sure that you update them with a pop of bold colour.
There's no such thing as gender rules at LFWM. Take note. Lads, don't be afraid to borrow something from your sister's wardrobe - and ladies, go ahead and wear what feels comfortable. The most important thing this season is wearing what you like, when you like, where you like.
There are a few brands who have maintained the grey-toned beanies and jackets look, so if you don't like standing out, be aware that you can still make a good impression with well-cut separates that layer up to good effect. Outerwear is all about the functional as well as the fashionable - if it's not waterproof, why are you even wearing it? This is London, after all.
FISHERMAN'S FRIEND The trend for bucket hats and utilitarian looks has, it seems, still not seen its final hour. This editor would really like to see the end of it, but if you must stick with
8on8 by GQ; Tokyo James; Pronounce; Charles Jeffrey Loverboy. Photography by Fil Mazzarino
The play with texture was not as commonly seen this season - so if you do want to give that a try, take a leaf out of Astrid Andersen's lookbook and put together a giant faux fur coat with reflective workman trousers.
Studio ALCH; Pronounce; Jordan Luca; Astrid Andersen; E-Tautz. Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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LONDON RUNWAY
PATTERN AND PRINT By far the biggest dichotomy of the season was the choice between prints and patterns, or solids. Most designers seem to have come down hard on one side of the line, with very little mixing and matching. Abstract and bold patterns have been seen on catwalks from Bethany Williams to Pronounce - the latter of whom presented an extremely interesting underbody theme with printed fabrics providing an accent to each outfit. Whether you opt for something abstract, a traditional check or tartan, or something a bit more outthere (such as the printed faces at Per Gotesson), a bold print is a great way to make a statement if you're not one for bold solids.
From top to bottom: Edward Crutchley, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Pronounce, JordanLuca, Astrid Andersen, Bethany Williams, Per Gotesson - all photographs by Fil Mazzarino
As for the front row, this was also a diverse mix of street style, haute performance, and sharp tailoring. The menswear catwalks might not always attract the highest calibre of celebrity visitors, but those who come certainly come in style. What was your favourite look from this season's shows? Take a leaf through the rest of our pages here and pick out your best, then share them with us on Instagram or Twitter @londonrunwaymag. We'll also be handing out styling tips, so go ahead and shoot us a DM if you want to get our advice on how to wear this season's looks!
Read more of Rhiannon's work on Twitter @rhiannondaverc
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8ON8 BY GQ Li Gong's 8on8 brand was once again chosen for the eight year of GQ's fashion presentation. There was a lot of playfulness, including using makeup to age up the models and using bright colours to simulate the idea of flowers in bloom. The collection included a collaboration with Kappa, and the title of the show - Wait Rose was presented in a tongue-in-cheek way referencing Waitrose shopping bags. Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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ART SCHOOL Photography by Fil Mazzarino
ASTRID ANDERSEN Images by Fil Mazzarino
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BETHANY Images via Fil Mazzarino
WILLIAMS
DO CREATIVES SUFFER MORE WITH THEIR MENTAL HEALTH? This week Madisen Crandall explores the connections between mental health and creativity.
Creative mediums often come with a fair amount of emotional expression. As such, many creative people find their inner emotions painted perfectly on a canvas, written eloquently on bright white paper, tumbling through the notes of a song, completing the rotation of a gorgeous pirouette turn, or what have you. No matter the case, it is often true that the creatives of society tend to leave their emotions out in the open, available for everyone to see. So, it is natural that throughout history a connection has been drawn between mental health and those of a creative mind. Because of this, the widespread speculation on the topic seems to be justified. Nonetheless, when tasked with the concept of this article I immediately considered a few notable creatives of history who dealt with mental illness. You can nearly hear the desperation of Sylvia Plath seeping through her words as she tackles depression. Or see Van Gogh's psychosis in the manic brushstrokes of his artwork. Ultimately, as I searched our friend The Internet, I concluded that there is an exceedingly long list of so many other creative icons whose work has been infiltrated by their respective mental struggles. And yet, each example comes with an intense notoriety. Which brings me to an important point. It is often from the same minds of those who struggle most intensely with mental illness that the lion's share of notable creative contributions have been made. Or as Aristotle once said, “There is no great genius without some touch of madness.� But why? Why do creatives seem to suffer more with their mental health? Is there something innately wrong with them? Or perhaps, right with them? And if creative populations do suffer more with their mental health, are all
creative outlets then a stage for sick minds? A by-product of human disaster? These are all questions I had to consider as I dove into the literal sea of research on this topic. Firstly, and possibly most conversely to the purpose of this article, I found that many professionals who have studied this phenomenon believe that there is no real scientific connection between mental illness and the creative mind. This means to say that just because someone is creative does not mean that they are doomed to struggle with mental illness or vice versa. So, no worries, the fact that you love painting during your downtime does not make you susceptible to depression. In fact, many studies have found that the vast majority of creative people do not struggle with mental illness. And while there is an overwhelming amount of famous artists, writers, musicians, and so on who have dealt with mental illness, they are generally considered the minority of creatives as a group. This does not explain however, the prevalent connection between creative persons who have diagnosable mental illness and their creative mediums. Or the fact that their mental health seems prevalent in their respective work. Nor does this explain the pattern of repetition observed that arguably the most notable creatives throughout history did suffer mentally. Even while this discussion remains, on the whole, quite controversial among experts in the field, the general stereotype that fuels this phenomenon remains undisputed. Or in other words, while many professionals who study the supposed connection between mental and creativity disagree that a connection exists at all to begin
with, they often acknowledge the general belief of the public in such a connection and verify the existence of creative people who also suffer with mental health. And so, with an eagerness to understand such science for myself, I turned to medical journals for the intricacies behind both occurrences of mental illness and creativity. By definition, mental illness refers to a wide range of mental disorders that affect the functionality of a person. In addition, it is speculated that mental illness primarily affects information processing in the brain. Which literally means that mental illness attacks the neural systems our brain uses to interpret stimuli. This is done on a variety of levels within the brain, each differing slightly depending on the diagnosed illness. Creativity, on the other hand, is a specific way that a person processes information - or in other words, how a person's brain takes information in, interprets information, and reacts to it. If you haven't connected the dots, allow me to. Creativity is a specific way to process information, and mental illness impacts the ability to process information. Both then affect the way one perceives the world. You see where I am going? Mental illness and creativity occur
on the same neural pathways of information processing. Which leads to the conclusion that even though not all creative people are mentally ill and the other way around, it would seem that the two groups process information in similar ways. Take for example a person who struggles with depression. Depression is a mental illness that specifically affects the levels of Serotonin in the brain, a chemical directly linked to emotion and information processing. Those who suffer from depression will generally feel a persistent sadness and sense of hopelessness. Additionally, it is common for depression to cause major fluctuations in sleep schedule, appetite, and energy levels. When comparing these attributes to a creative individual, we can see certain commonalities between the two. Often, the works of creative people appear to an outsider to be sad or depicting sadness. Artwork in any form is expressive and as sadness is one of the poignant human emotions, it is expressed almost effortlessly in many cases. Furthermore, as creatives
are typically those who express themselves more freely, fluctuations in energy, emotion, appetite, and so on seem to the average person likely a bit more erratic. This is not to say that all creatives behave the same or that all of those who suffer with depression behave the same. But as we compare the two groups, it is essential to understand the typical individual who helps comprise said groups. Afterall, it is in the comparison of these individuals that we see patterns displayed and commonality linking the two groups. Commonality, that over time has resulted in the connection between mental health and creativity. A concept that is highlighted well when we consider creativity and mental health in the average person on a daily basis. Creativity is subjective. Meaning that what one might consider to be “creative� another may view as traditional or usual. So while the likes of Sylvia Plath and Van Gough are considered creative people by many, creativity does not necessarily abide within the bounds of fame and notoriety exemplified by them alone. In
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fact, it is well understood that most creative thought occurs daily and in more subtle ways than the magnificence of Starry Night. It is through these minute, day-to-day processes that the real connection between creativity and mental health can truly be observed. By rough approximation, 1 in 4 people will struggle with a mental health issue in the UK in a single year. In assuming human creativity extends to every UK inhabitant to some extent and within their individual bounds of creative definition on a daily basis, it is reasonable to conclude that each person who struggles with their mental health will also experience creative processing. Resulting in a population of people who both suffer with their mental health and are considered “creative” in one way or another. It is also crucial to note that the combination of creativity and mental health is not necessarily a bad thing. In many settings of therapy or assistance with mental health, creative mediums are often employed. Countless people have found solace, comfort, and healing from their mental struggles on the keys of a piano, at the tip of a pen, and in many other creative circumstances. Humans are emotional beings. At one point or another we will all find ourselves within the clutches of emotional struggle and possibly mental health struggle. And something powerful happens when we are brave enough to express that struggle wherever our creativity takes us. And so, if there is anything to be definitely said of the connection between mental health and creativity, it is that the two seem to coexist quite beautifully. You can read more of Madisen’s work on Twitter by following @wordsofmadisenlee Illustrations by Joe Bailey Photographs via Unsplash
If you or someone you know is struggling with their mental health, know that help is available. Please visit www.NHS.uk for 24/7 access to mental health hotlines, informational and support groups, and many more amazing resources. You are not alone, you are valuable, you are going to get through this.
DEEP WITHIN Models: Lana Lermontova @lana_lermontova; Sonya Baileys @sbaileys Photographer: Marie Dashkova @melodyphoto Fashion Designer: Daria Arendt @daria_arendt_fashion All clothing throughout: Hanahaki collection by Daria Arendt
MUNN Images by Fil Mazzarino
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NEW FACE Name: Edward Age: 19 Location: Russia, Smolensk Agency: Freelance How long have you been modelling for? Not for long, usually it is a hobby Where are you from originally? I was born in Russia, in Smolensk
Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? I like to dance. This is my passion. What would surprise people to know about you? I study as a medic. What are your modelling ambitions? I have a twin brother and we both adore modeling.
Photographer: Marina Vasilevskaya @milk_and_honey_foto Model: Edward @Imkireevedik Makeup Artist: Nastya @_nastya.5
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NEW FACE Name: Laia Fernández Age: 24 Location: Barcelona Agency: Salvador Agency How long have you been modelling for? 10 months Where are you from originally? From Barcelona
Makeup Artist: Jeneba Badsa @jenebamakeup Model: Laia Fernandez @laayafc Photographer: Jhow Ferso @JhowFerso
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Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? Unusual talent, no. But I think we all have some talent. In the end, you don't need tricks to do magic. What would surprise people to know about you? There are many things that people would be surprised by. People often create an equivocal image of how I am, but only when they know me, do they really know who I am. What are your modelling ambitions? I have always loved the world of modeling. Being able to transmit sensations through a still image is something incredible. I would love to continue growing and to end up recognizing myself as a model.
NEW FACE Name: Aitor Regidor Vallcanera Age: 26 Location: Castalla, Alicante (Spain) Agency: Fever's Models How long have you been modelling for? One year. Where are you from originally? Castalla, Alicante (Spain)
Model: Aitor Regidor at Fever's Models @aitor_regidor @feversmodels Fashion Designer and Producer: Rafael Pautasso at FEVER’S @rafaelpautasso Photographer: Aleksei Ivanov @alivamodar MUA: Belen March @belen_march
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Do you have an unusual talent or party trick? No, I don’t. What would surprise people to know about you? I never was like I am now, I had a pretty hard past which this modelling world helped me to get over. What are your modelling ambitions? I would like to see the day when I will be well-known in this area and can combine it with my habitual job, toy designer.
Portraits by Martsynovich Photographer: Martsynovich Eugenia @emartsynovich Model: Agatha
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LONDON RUNWAY Hey, I’m Eugenia Martsynovich and I shoot on film. Last year I was fighting with depression and as you might know, schedule really matters for a successful recovery. I just asked friends of mine to have a cup of coffee with me, chat and took pictures of them while we were talking. I did it almost every day and with every question they asked and kind word they said I felt balanced again.
I think that’s why I shoot portraits mostly. The thing I’m interested in is the person and how face reflects their inner world. That’s my thanks to all the people who saw the inner world behind my face or sometimes mask, and helped me to find my photographic destination.
piece PAGE 40
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Pretty In Pink: How John Hughes' films captured the style of a generation Maria Henry explores the influence of the legendary director John Hughes and how his films captured the spirit of the 80s.
As we move into this new decade, we may find ourselves looking to the past for inspiration. The 1980s was an interesting, diverse and quickly changing time for fashion. In 1982, Jane Fonda paved the way out of the ‘70s in bright purple Lycra leggings and puffy leg warmers as dance aerobics became a national sensation in the US. This sporting craze saw an influx in ‘fitness fashion’, including wide belts, sweatbands, bodysuits over bright-coloured tights, chunky sneakers, and velour tracksuits. In ‘84 Madonna made her grand debut with her ‘scandalous’ performance of Like a Virgin at the MTV music awards, shocking viewers and solidifying herself as a teenage pop sensation and fashion icon. Her short skirts paired with leggings, fishnet gloves, strings of costume pearls and big, bleached blonde hair tied with an oversized bow became staples of fashion for girls everywhere.
On the underground scene, the punk movement had begun to rise, bringing in new opportunities for self-expression through rebelling against the norms of conservative fashion rules — big oversized jackets with badges pinned to them, ripped tights and jeans, shaved heads or gelled, spiky hair, all became a way to showcase punkrock spirit. The 1980s also brought in significant social change, with more women being able to work than ever before. This led to the introduction of new trends in workwear, including the iconic shoulder-padded blazers that seem so synonymous with the decade now. Overall the ‘80s saw the rise of diverse selection of contrasting styles, making it an interesting period of transformation for fashion and fashion ‘norms’.
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If there is one man who managed to capture the essence of the 1980s, it was John Hughes. John Hughes was in the prime of his career in the 1980s, directing classics such as The Breakfast Club, Ferris Bueller’s Day Off, Pretty in Pink andSixteen Candles. Hailed as the king of the teenage film, Hughes captured the feeling of what it meant to be a teen in the ‘80s almost so well you would think he was one. This is reflected in the costume design of his films, with each character displaying their individuality through a perfectly curated ‘80s wardrobe.
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Ferris Bueller’s Day Off (1987) Ferris Bueller’s Day Off gave us a range of brilliant ‘80s staples. Between Ferris’ mum’s heavily shoulder-padded work blazer, Sloane’s iconic white fringe jacket and high waisted shorts, Cameron’s oversized sports jersey and Ferris’ own patterned waist-coat cardigans and white leather jacket — it’s not difficult to guess which era the film belongs to. Costume Designer Marilyn Vance curated a wardrobe which perfectly reflected the colourful range of characters and their fun-loving personalities.
The Breakfast Club (1985) In 1985 Hughes released the now cult classic The Breakfast Club. Perhaps one of the most recognisable interpretations of teen angst, The Breakfast Club introduced us to a range of misfits thrown together into weekend detention and forced to realise they aren’t so different after all. All of the characters are given their own individual look. One of the most iconic being Molly Ringwald’s ‘princess’ pink attire, featuring a soft V-neck pink satin blouse paired with contrasting dark brown high-waisted skirt and knee-high boots — a classic ‘80s combination of soft and harsh.
Then, of course, we have Judd Nelson’s classic‘80s ‘rebel’ costume — inclusive of an oversized denim jacket, fingerless gloves, white Tshirt and oversized plaid shirt. A now iconic look associated with the spirit of ‘80s rebellion, misunderstood teens and effortless style. Pretty in Pink (1986) Pretty in Pink brought us some of the most out-there ‘80s fashion on screen. It’s safe to say that Molly Ringwald’s character, Andie, has an individual sense of style, and that’s one of the reasons that this film is so great.
Not having a lot of money, Andie often creates her own clothes — layering different patterns and fabrics to create outfits that in theory shouldn’t work, but somehow, they do. Always very pink, Andie showed an audience of ‘80s teens how having your own sense of style is an asset and how you don’t need to be rich to achieve this, just crafty. A perfect example of this is her home-made prom dress, the off-the shoulder, high neck, lace and satin gown is the perfect example of ‘80s elegance and individuality.
Andie’s best friend Duckie is also a perfect example of individual style. Much like Andie, Duckie is often seen wearing numerous layers of different patterned clothing. He wears blazers, waistcoats, shirts with up-turned collars and always accessorises to the highest extent with badges, watches, small pieces of jewellery and bolo-ties. Duckie is an early example of blurring the lines in gendered dressing, creating masculine looks whilst incorporating more ‘feminine’ aspects associated with womenswear. ‘80s fashion was all about individuality and breaking the strict rules of what men and women could wear set by the previous decades and the fashion in Pretty in Pink perfectly encapsulates this defiant style. Featuring a soft V-neck pink satin blouse paired with contrasting dark brown high-waisted skirt and kneehigh boots — a classic ‘80s combination of soft and harsh. Then, of course, we have Judd Nelson’s classic‘80s ‘rebel’ costume — inclusive of an oversized denim jacket, fingerless gloves, white Tshirt and oversized plaid shirt. A now iconic look associated with the spirit of ‘80s rebellion, misunderstood teens and effortless style.
Sixteen Candles (1984) Last, but certainly not least we have the film Sixteen Candles. Once again starring Molly Ringwald (who at this point was quickly becoming an icon for ‘80steen girls everywhere), Sixteen Candles tells the story of 16-year-old Samantha.Samantha’s style is classically feminine: she is seen wearing floral dresses overTshirts, knee-length flowing plaid skirts and off-the-shoulder tops, and often ties her pink cardigan around her shoulders, creating the perfect picture of a preppy teenage girl. However, the most wellknown look from the film would have to be the gigantic, puffy, pink bridesmaid gown Sam wears at the end of the film, complete with jewelled earrings and an assortment of pink and blue flowers in her hair — the ultimate ‘80s wedding look.
Overall, the ‘80s was a period of self-expression. Especially for the younger generations, the changing culture allowed them to have greater freedom with what they wore and how they used it to show who they were. John Hughes’ films perfectly captured the feeling of teenage-hood during this period, the desires to be a modern person, in a world that was only just beginning to let go of oldfashioned values. This, I’m sure, is still a relatable issue for many people out there who struggle to express themselves in the ways they would like to, out of fear of judgement from those less accepting. However, if the films can teach you anything, it’s that in the end — you are always better off when you’re being exactly who you are.
If you liked this article you can find more of Maria’s work over on Twitter@Mariawriteshere
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Charles Jeffrey Loverboy Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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E-Tautz Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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Pronounce Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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LOU DALTON Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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STYLE (CONSCIOUS) GUIDE ethical and sustainable style guide selected by Rhiannon D'Averc
Desert Duster Wool Coat Mccullogh £210
Selected Homme Cotton Trench Coat Navy £90
Tasha Jumper in Olive Introvert UK £45
Square Goldwork Offcuts Brooch Ellis & Noronha £35
Regular Dunn Recycled/Organic Cotton Jeans Mud Jeans £109
Upcycled Kimono Top Yoroshiku £160
Lover Boots Brave Gentlemen $310
Reclaimed Overnight Parachute Bag Elvis & Kresse £260
Viki Vegan Leather Trousers Introvert UK £30
Hongse Lamperto Milano £209
RECYCLED ELEMENTS PAGE 55
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Top 10 Instagram Accounts For A Happy Scroller This week Grace Pickford shares ten Instagram accounts to follow for positivity and wellbeing.
In an age where we are constantly ‘on’, with phones buzzing throughout the night, laptops blinking in the dark and alerts welcoming us into new days, is there a way to make our social media platforms a positive and uplifting space, for us to maintain or even improve our mental wellbeing?
I have compiled Instagram accounts that cater for a variety of interests. My favourite being...
I have experienced the Youtubehole, the Instagram addiction, and the scrolling nightmare. Social media is designed to replicate the gambling games that can be found at flashy casinos in Las Vegas, only in our own homes and in our own pockets. The more we press ‘like’, the more brands and influencers can make a presence online and make money. It is both a genius business plan and a complete sledge-hammer to mental health.
@miramikatistudio - 48,100 followers
Phone usage has skyrocketed and the information we are feeding our brains on the daily has become more and more toxic, with fake friends, Photoshopping and ideal lifestyles being plastered over our feeds. So I went on a mission. A mission to find the best Instagram accounts for promoting positivity and mental wellbeing. Accounts that create a space for happiness, thought-provoking content, and inspiration for a happier life. Instead of chasing superstar lifestyles and computer generated perfection, let’s focus on the attainable and the personal. What makes your belly feel warm and fuzzy?
No. I won’t spoil it, you will have to read on! In no particular order:
For the fashion happy:
Mira Mikati founded her selfnamed fashion brand in 2015. Strapped with the bio “Make HAPPY CLOTHES, COLOR the world, TRAVEL in colors,” this fashion is all about the feelgood. Vibrant, enticing, exciting think rainbow striped sweets with extra sugar and you’re about there.
For a friendly voice: @cleowade - 574,000 followers “I work to build community. I also write books about living and loving.” If you haven’t read Cleo Wade’s bestselling book, “Heart Talk” yet, you are majorly missing out. Poetry, affirmations and mantras; Wade’s Instagram does not fail to follow in the book’s magically relatable footsteps. An inspirational life companion and a digital hand to hold. Expect “friendly reminders,” expressions of love, and simple, bold quotes to kick start a positive day. This account truly speaks like a friend.
For cute and cuddly: @shamarra_aplacas - 71,300 followers I might have lost you with the mention of alpacas, but bear with me. When I am having a gloomy duvet day, my friend sends me pictures of cute animals in an effort to distract me from my unwanted thoughts. This has, what I like to call, the hot-water-bottle-effect. Introducing the account for the Shamarra Alpaca Farm in New Zealand. They produce “Natural dye free New Zealand made Alpaca knitwear” as stated in their bio, and their posts of alpacas pack a punch (see what I did there?) in brightening your day. Happy animals, beautiful surroundings, and all whilst publicising a healthy image for the production of knitwear.
For the thought-provoking: @thought-catalog - 665,000 followers “A place for thoughtful coming of age storytelling.” “Thought Catalog” is a New York based, digital magazine founded in 2010. Their Instagram feed is bursting with beautiful photography, poetic and dreamy writing that feels like a hug, and meaningful reminders in love, selfworth and friendship. Themed around relationships, youth and romance, this Instagram account is for anyone in need of feeling related to and understood when people around them may not provide that.
For the practical: @melody_wholesomehealth 1,000 followers If what you are in need of is a step by step guide to diet, creating a clear mind and a healthy lifestyle, this account run by a holistic health coach provides practical ways to become the best version of yourself. With a simple and secure approach, I recommend melody_wholesomehealth for those craving a lifestyle makeover.
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For the artistic: @theartidote - 1,000,000 followers “...to story-tell, empathize, bond and heal through art”. Self titled artist and mental health advocate, Jova Ferreyra, created this artistic, self-help Instagram page in 2015 to provide a community online for people to embrace selfawareness and mental health wellbeing. It has now spread to organising meetups in cities all over the world. On this innovative, creative platform, expect unique, striking art pieces accompanied with provocative quotes and a must-add to your Instagram feed.
For the inspirational: @bethrodden - 46,300 followers “It’s amazing what some self-love and then one day just going for it can do.” Professional athlete Beth Rodden is a climber and uses her platform to share her experiences with body image, and being a mother. It is affirmation in itself to hear from a world class athlete about feeling physically inadequate; even those who train their bodies for a living have insecurities in their appearance and it is not something to hide or shy away from, but to share and create conversations about.
For the bold: @feminist - 2,900,000 followers “The radical belief that we are all equal.” Visually delectable, delightfully colourful and vibrantly human is what can be expected when you type @feminist into Instagram. Quotes, real people, real experiences and relatable content, there is no tiptoeing around. A straight-up and honest reinforcement of how fun it is to be free, open and honest in a world of rules.
For the speaker upperers: @i_weigh – 995,000 followers “I Weigh is about radical inclusivity, so that on one feels alone. Our job is to amplify, advocate, and pass the mic.” “I Weigh” was founded by the actress Jameela Jamil to start a conversation on social media that celebrates body positivity and fights against shame and self-hate. My favourite post is a quote that reads, “If your social feeds only have people that look like you, chances are you aren’t learning.” Go learn!
For the fighters: @theeverymanproject - 18,200 followers The Every Man Project was founded by Tarik Carroll with a mission to reform male aesthetics and say fuck off to toxic masculinity, to embrace diversity and free men all over the world from self-hate and societal pressures. The project sells t-shirts emblazoned with the motifs: “THICC & THRIVING” and “F*YOUR*TOXIC*MASCULINITY”. “Society has always had this obsession with perfection. This obsession that conditions most of us to never feel comfortable in our own skin because we are simply not enough...” - Tarik Carroll
You can read more of Grace’s work on her website justaquickie.blog.wordpress.com
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Swiss Made Makeup Artist: Jeannine Spielhofer; Bianca Haller @makeup.bianca.haller Models: Gloria PĂźnchera at Option Model Zurich/Metropolitan Models Paris @Gloriapunchera; Annick Robatel at Option Model Zurich Photographer: Christoph Marti @ch_marti Wardrobe Stylist: Lorena Lareo Carral Hair Stylist: Pablo Acosta; AnaĂŻs Marthaler Location: Solheure Solothurn
Annick wears: Dress - Ramona Erb
Gloria wears: Dress - Amorphose
Gloria and Annick wear: Dresses - Ramona Erb
Annick wears: Dress - Amorphose
Gloria wears: Top and Trousers - Amorphose
Annick wears: Robe - Claudia Nabholz
Gloria wears: Top and Shorts - Ramona Erb
Gloria wears: Top and Shorts - Ramona Erb
Annick wears: Dress - Ramona Erb
Gloria wears: Top - Claudia Nabholz; Skirt - Ramona Erb
DRAGCON UK RUVIEW
Rhiannon D’Averc spills the tea on the UK’s new drag event.
were reported at Blu Hydrangea’s booth alone!
As soon as we got our first season of RuPaul’s Drag Race UK, we could only expect that there would be a corresponding event to go with it. True to form, Ru brought all her squirrel friends and kitty girls along to put on a show for us at Olympia this January.
Talking of queues, let’s get the elephant in the room out of the way right now. You may have seen memes circulating joking about how Ru stated in one of the UK episodes that Brits love to queue which turned out to be prophetic, as the lines were so bad on the Saturday that some visitors were turned away. Needless to say, given the price of the tickets, people were pretty unhappy about this - but with G4S on the door, perhaps it wasn’t too surprising an occurrence...
The event was certainly star-studded if you are a fan of the show previous contestants from Jujubee and Bob the Drag Queen through to Trinity the Tuck and Derrick Barry were all in attendance. Each of the queens had their own booths where you could line up to get a photograph with them and perhaps a signed picture or some merchandise. It wasn’t for the faint-hearted, though - queues of three hours long
London Runway visited the con on the Sunday, which was a lot better managed in terms of the wait times and the crowds. On the other hand,the show was still very busy -
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one of the most crowded events we’ve seen at Olympia, and we’ve been to a fair few. Getting a good view of the main stage was a difficult task, and required planning in advance to reach the queens you wanted to see performing live. Some of the most exciting stuff, however, was going on at the live talk stages. Titled ‘Tea’ and ‘Shade’ respectively, they featured talks and panels on a wide variety of topics. We dropped in to a few to hear what was going on and grab some interesting quotes for you.
LONDON RUNWAY
Our favourite moment had to be when newcomer Scaredycat talked about how drag has affected her music (and vice versa). Despite sitting with Jaymi Hensley, of Union J fame, she had no problem delivering the following soundbite: “Fuck Simon Cowell!” The panel, which also featured Ashkenazi, did bring up some very interesting points. Jaymi talked about how, despite the fact that there were two gay members of Union J, none of them felt comfortable to live their lives as out gay men. The pressure from the music industry was just too much, and Jaymi noted that he felt like the entirety of his time with the band was a drag performance - that he was putting on an act as a straight guy. Mental health in the music industry isn’t easy - they felt at the time that they had a hundred people telling them who to be and what to do, rather than being able to be who they wanted. The panel seemed to unanimously agree that manufactured bands have a very hard time of it, especially now that the industry seems to churn them over and leave them on the scrapheap very quickly. They were, however, quick to point out that they place no blame on the artists themselves - that when you’re struggling to make ends meet, any deal that gets you into the music industry is one you feel you have to accept. One amazing feature of the show was the inclusivity factor. Sign language interpreters were present at any panel and stayed for the duration, which isn’t easy with fast-talking shady queens! They were also on the main stage, where they not only signed every word spoken but even signed and danced along to every piece of music played. Talking of the main stage, one of the highlights for us was the lipsync competition open for members of the public who wanted to show off their skills. We watched as, by unanimous agreement, an extremely fabulous young entrant showed off the most jawdropping death drops and sassiest walks. When it came time to decide the winner by the loudest cheers from the crowd, there was no competition. What a champ! (far right)
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We did catch another great panel, in the form of the Fashion Photo RuView presented by Cheryl Hole and Jujubee. Despite their constant jokes that neither of them were really considered to be fashion queens, they did a fabulous job of choosing whether to toot or boot the season one stars’ before and after looks. Cheryl Hole’s best fashion tip was to get yourself a thigh high (“Just one thigh high?” joked Jujubee), because you can easily dress it up or dress it down. Juju declared that a little black dress was the one - “You can wear it anywhere. You can wear it to a funeral, you can wear it to a wedding...” An audience member asked the pair what they would wear on the last day of the world if it was coming to an end. Jujubee said, “I’d probably wear a really tight bodysuit... to run away from whatever was chasing us. It would be fashionable and easy to move in!” “Michelle would hate that, wouldn’t she?” Cheryl noted. “I would wear...” Sensing hesitation, Jujubee jumped in with a Davina De Campo reference: “A red wig and a silver dress?” “Sold!” Cheryl agreed. There were plenty more little soundbites and quotes from the panels, but given the shady nature of queens, maybe we should end it there! There’s already been strong hints that there will be another DragCon in the future, so make sure that you keep an eye out for tickets next time it comes around. In the meantime, the queens for the new season of the US show have just been announced, so there’s plenty to look forward to! Read more from Rhiannon D'Averc at twitter.com/rhiannondaverc. Images via World of Wonder/Getty Illustrations by Joe Bailey
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PLASTIC SOCIETY Hair and Makeup: Anna Mundet by Mรถn Icon Team @anna.mundet @moniconint @iconspain Model: Mar Salesan at Towanda Models Agency @marsalesanz Wardrobe Stylist: Joel Leiva @joeleivac Photographer: Carla Aymat @carla_aymat
Mar wears: Jumper - Mango
Mar wears: Jumper - Mango; Jacket - Sandro Paris; Earrings - Parfois
Mar wears: Jumper - Mango; Jacket - Sandro Paris; Pants - Zara; Earrings - Parfois; Shoes - Zara
Mar wears: Jumper - Mango; Pants - Zara; Earrings - Parfois; Shoes - Zara
Mar wears: Jumper - Mango; Pants - Zara; Earrings - Parfois
Mar wears: Jacket - Zara Man; Belt - Zara; Shoes - Zara; Hair Clips - Zara
Mar wears: Jumper - Zara; Belt - Zara; Shoes - Zara; Hair Clips - Zara
Mar wears: Shirt - Zara Man; Top - Zara; Pants - Zara; Earrings - Parfois; Bag - Liu.jo
Mar wears: Shirt - Zara Man; Top - Zara; Pants - Zara; Earrings - Parfois; Shoes - Zara
Mar wears: Blouse - Zara; Blazer - Burberry; Earrings - Parfois
Mar wears: Blouse - Zara; Blazer - Burberry; Belt - Vintage; Earrings - Parfois
INTERVIEW We spoke to Yi Ling, the creative director behind 1x1 Studio, during the LFWM presentation. Text by Rhiannon D’Averc. Photographs by Haydon Perrior - @thomasdecruzmedia @haydonperrior
The 1x1 Studio presentation instantly gave an impression of love and relationships: roses were everywhere, attached to bondage gear and scattered amongst knotted red ropes. There was a certain amount of kink involved in the handcuffs and cage masks, and the dancers who contorted and performed between each round of looks. “I’m travelling loads, like around the world,” Yi Ling explained. “When I see the couples, they are at a train station or on the street, sometimes they’re fighting, sometimes they talk about their problems in their relationships, sometimes they French kiss and they are so into [each other], even the environment is gone for them... I just make a note down, like a really nice documentary, I want to record it. But I’m not a movie maker, so I’m trying to express that through my fashion. So you can see some of the looks are really sweet, or it’s something like a lost love, something really sad.”
There was certainly plenty to love about the collection, even beyond enjoying the looks themselves: they were also very eco-friendly. The brand aims for consistency, continuing to use materials "which we developed ourselves, and for this collection we used the recycled bottle yarn as well. It’s really warm, for a winter feeling, but it’s also really nice for the environment.” A great and refreshing aspect of the presentation was that visitors were not only allowed, but even encouraged, to take selfies with the models and explore the garments close-up. “For me, I feel like if a fashion show is always so formal, they feel like “Oh, okay, model is gone, model is running away!” without even taking photos. I think if they can talk and take photos, they can really enjoy the atmosphere in the space here more. Like you are coming to a club, and everyone here, even the DJ on the stage, they can really enjoy their time. You can take some pictures and express your love!”
We certainly enjoyed our time inside Fabric admiring all of the looks. Our prediction? You will want to keep an eye on 1x1 Studio in times to come. They are creating something very exciting indeed.
1X1 STUDIO
V I N T I
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
A N D R E W S
STEFAN COOKE Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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Miss World 2019 Photography by Mrityunjoy Mitra
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Photography by Fil Mazzarino
EDWARD
CRUTCHLEY
LONDON RUNWAY
JORDAN LUCA
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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YOUR STYLE HOROSCOPE Candice brings you upcycling and thrift flipping inspirations for this issue’s Style Horoscope. If you’re unfamiliar with thrift flipping, you’re essentially upcycling your thrifted finds or clothing that you already own to better suit you. This sustainable and budget-friendly way of revamping your closet is definitely worth a try with levels of difficulty ranging from simply cropping your top to making your own beanie!
Aries March 21 - April 20
Lyme Terrace’s Upcycled Cashmere Hat is the perfect upcycling challenge for this go-getting, confident sign. Made from preloved jumpers!
Taurus April 21 - May 21
Vintage retailer Rockit’s Originals line has all sorts of reworked pieces, including this Blue and Brown Striped Cropped Roll Neck Jumper. If you want just a quick, practical adjustment, cropping is always the way to go!.
Gemini May 22- June 21
This Pro Sports Bungee Sweatshirt from Urban Outfitters’s Urban Renewal line is a simple revamp of any classic jumper for the pro-active and comfort-loving Gemini. Try it on any of your own hoodies or jumpers!
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Cancer June 22- July 22
For the reliable Cancer, this method of flipping any long sleeved top to a short or no sleeve top by cutting them can never go wrong. Lyme Terrace’s Short Sleeve Surplus Sweat made from their extra sweaters is a great example! *Hem the edges to keep the fabric from fraying if it easily detangles.
Leo July 23- August 21
Embroidering or incorporating additional elements to any piece will instantly make it a statement piece perfect for this statement-making sign. Ragyard’s One of Kind Cowrie Panel Parka is just an example of how this can be implemented. Add wings or sparkles everywhere if you want!
Virgo August 22- September 23
RE/DONE’s reworked Levi’s 40s Zoot Jeans are an example of one of the most commonly used thrift flipping techniques. Perfect for the economical Virgos, bring in the waist to any pair of jeans to get that perfect fit for a tenth of the price!
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Libra September 24- October 23 Turning a T-shirt into a fashionable dress is as easy as this Split Mountain Bike Racer T-shirt by Ragyard. Simply emulate the concept on your own oversized tee or add a belt to transform the look! Fun-loving Libra will be intoxicated by the plethora of possibilities.
Scorpio October 24- November 22 Good Krama’s Bopha Jumpsuit is handwoven and made of the finest silks and cotton in the Province of Cambodia. Although it might not compare to this craftsmanship, replicate this silhouette with your own preloved jumpsuit by making cut-outs wherever you want .
Sagittarius November 23- December 22
Contrasting fabric pairings and patchwork allows the Saggitarius to explore and discover with every exciting match. Beyond Retro’s reworked Contrast Print 90s Slip Dress is a perfect example with the use of two different recycled clothing fabrics.
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Capricorn December 23- January 20
Perfect for carrying all their books or studying material, the constantly aspiring and achieving Capricorn will find this thrift flip both practical and manageable with all their workload. Beyond Retro’s Reworked Workwear Tote Bag sold on Urban Outfitters
Aquarius January 21 - February 19 Good Karma’s MEAS Scarf is a transseasonal piece that can be used as it is for the colder months or as a sarong, skirt or more during the warmer months. Perfect for this fashionable sign, they can simply use one garment in multiple variations throughout the year.
Pisces February 20 - March 20
Pisceans’ creativity will thrive with this thrift flip technique. Get a plain tee of your choosing for barely the price of a sandwich and draw whatever your heart desires! This Vegan Herbivore Tshirt by styngvi on Etsy is all handdrawn and self-designed.
You can see more of Candice's work on Instagram by following @Candice_x9. All images via respective retailers
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LONDON
Photography by Pietro Recchia
NEW YEAR'S DAY PARADE 2020
LONDON RUNWAY
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STUDIO ALCH
Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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TOKYO JAMES Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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PER GOTESSON Photography by Fil Mazzarino
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BIANCA SAUNDERS
Images via Purple PR
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Q A THE BIG QUESTION We asked, you answered
WHAT'S ONE THING YOU WOULD LOVE TO ASK A FASHION DESIGNER?
&
"How does a simple idea convert itself into a physical manifestation? How long does this process take? How different is their vision from reality, of their design? How many times do they have to redesign something? How do they envision designs? On whom do they envision it? Is it always humans and models? Do their ideas always get approval? If not, what do they do? What is the most challenging part of becoming a fashion designer? What is more difficult, maintaining being a successful designer or getting a break in the industry? What is the appropriate age of becoming one? What should be the financial background of an aspirer? I think these questions are more than enough"
"Do you sew your own clothes, or do you draw it out and have someone else put it together for you?"
- Jennifer, editor at Etia.com
"WHY HASN’T THE FASHION WORLD STANDARDIZED SIZING?"
- Tiffany James at Undercoverwear.com
"How significant a role do you think AI may play in the near future with regards to designing or validating new pieces?" - Abir Syed, CPA and Consultant at Upcounting.com
“How much time does it take to create one masterpiece?” - Odeta Bareckiene, Photographer
- Stacy Caprio at Deals Scoop
"I WOULD LOVE TO ASK A FASHION DESIGNER ABOUT COLOR THEORY. COLOR THEORY IS THE IDEA THAT CERTAIN COLORS LOOK BETTER/WORSE ON CERTAIN SKIN TONES/UNDERTONES. ALSO, HOW DOES COLOR THEORY RELATE TO MATCHING AND COORDINATING CLOTHES?"
- Hannah Fisher, affiliate marketer
“Where do you think creativity comes from? And is there a spiritual and metaphysical source to designer’s creativity?” - Abdulaziz M Alhamdan, CEO-Marketer-Blogger at StoryBonding.com
Get in on the action - follow @londonrunwaymag on Instagram to spot next issue's question
NEXT: THE LFW ISSUE THE RENIDELLING ISSUE FIND LONDON RUNWAY: LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK @LONDONRUNWAYMAG INFO@LONDONRUNWAY.CO.UK
BACK COVER: BACKSTAGE AT OLIVIA RUBIN BY RABI SULTAN