Food Lifestyle Magazine Summer 2024

Summer

This season's best places to eat, stay, shop and visit in the South West

The Collective at Woolsery is a very special experience in one of the most wild and unspoilt areas of the country.

In the pretty village of Woolsery, north Devon, The Collective comprises an award-winning dining pub – The Farmers Arms – quirky and beautiful suites and rooms, a gourmet fish and chip shop, charming traditional corner shop and post office, and a 150-acre farm which provides produce for all of the above.

woolsery.com

'9/10. A curious bubble of sophistication’

The Times

‘You can almost hear the bees buzzing in those echiumtoweringflowers’

Ready to be inspired? I hope so, as we've curated some of the most captivating experiences to be found in the South West this summer.

May to August is the pinnacle of the year in this corner of the country, and there's so much to be packed in while the days are long, the sea is warm and everything's in bloom.

I hope you sense this heady escapism as you flick through the issue and discover cool places to stay, find exceptional places to eat out, encounter new dishes and drinks with which to entertain friends, and meet talented chefs and artists.

One such artist is Hazel McNab whose linocuts grace our cover and this page. Hazel lives near Penzance and creates limited‑edition reduction linocuts inspired by the surrounding land and seascapes.

When I first encountered Hazel's prints I was seduced by the way she captures the essence of summer in Cornwall; you can almost feel the water on your skin and hear the bees buzzing in those towering echium flowers. So I was delighted when she agreed to let us feature a couple of her pieces and share the love with you. Find more of her work at hazelmcnab.com and at Art Space Gallery in St Ives.

To make sure you don't miss a thing each season, why not get the magazine delivered to your door? You can also receive a free weekly email of special finds (find out how to do both on page 9).

To discover where to pick up a copy of the printed magazine, see our stockists on page 98. Drop us a line at ideas@saltmedia.co.uk if you think your store, gallery, hotel, holiday cottage or restaurant should stock the magazine. And, if you'd like to see your business in Food Lifestyle, email or call the team (details on page 9).

See you in the autumn.

Jo Rees Editorial director and founder, Salt Media

Image: Guy Harrop

This issue

18. Firestarter

Great British Menu chef Andi Tuck is blazing a trail for flame‑driven flavour at his open kitchen in Cornwall.

24. Trencherman's Awards 2024

The South West's hospitality event of the year got a glamorous vintage makeover at Bovey Castle. Find out who won and what went down.

30. Tastemakers: Sandy Brown

International ceramicist Sandy tells us about her life in Appledore, Devon.

34. The curation: sustainable summer kit Lust‑worthy gear with eco creds.

49. Paul Ainsworth

Padstow chef Paul shares two recipes for summery seafood nibbles from his new book.

68. Exploring hidden Sherborne

The Dorset town is so much more than just honey‑coloured turrets and chic boutiques. We mine its quirky depths.

74. Five of the best family hols in Cornwall Stop Googling; the search is over.

78. Weekenders: Salcombe

Three days of glamorous beach‑chic in south Devon.

82. Five of the best cool places to stay Where to escape to this summer.

86. The Full Works: St Michaels Resort

We squeeze every last drop of deliciousness from 24 hours at Cornwall's lush spa hotel.

9. Meet the team

10. Ten things to do this season

Subscribe to Food Lifestyle and never miss an issue. Turn to page 9.

29. Notes from a Michelin kitchen

39. Eating out

We visit The Alverton, Mint at Tewkesbury Park, Dartmoor's The Chagford Inn and Escala in Clevedon.

49. Weekend cooking

65. Susy Atkins' tasting notes

67. Travel

96. Food Lifestyle directory

98. Stockists

90 Win!

Enter our competitions for your chance to win: a stay with hot‑tub experience plus Champagne tea at Scarlet Hotel in north Cornwall (worth £550); a stay and tea at Penventon Park Hotel in Redruth (worth £269); a Morsø Grill Forno from Rangemoors (worth £754); an indulgent dining experience at The Rising Sun in Truro (worth £290); and dinner, bed and breakfast at The Kings Head in Wiltshire (worth £245).

FRIDAY 26 JULY

THE HUMAN LEAGUE

CMAT

Wille And The Bandits

The Bug Club

William The Conqueror

The Ultimate ABBA Party • Ernie

Flo Crowe & The Dilemmas

Shrodinger’s Daughter

NATHAN

OUTLAW

Jack Stein

Gill Meller • Poppy O’Toole

James Strawbridge

Mick Smith • Nick Hemming

THURSDAY 25 JULY

Bailey Tomkinson • The Stowes • The Busketeers

Campfire Axes & Archery • Spear Making • Woodland Crafts • Go Wild Camp Quiz

Massage & Therapies • Sup Adventures • Surf Lessons • Kayaking • Coasteering

SUNDAY 28 JULY

SATURDAY 27 JULY

SUGABABES

Arrested Development

Newton Faulkner

Norman Jay MBE

Seraphina Simone

Freshly Squeezed Men Are Singing

Absolutely Anytime

Die Twice

FOOD & CHEFS

TOM BROWN

Thuy Diem Pham

Mark Hix • Richard Bertinet

Ana Ortiz • Steven Lamb

Nicholas Balfe • Charlotte Vincent

ACROSS THE WEEKEND

BOMBAY BICYCLE CLUB

Gentleman’s Dub Club

Caravãna Sun

Eva Lazarus

Funke And The Two Tone Baby

Beatles Dub Club

Grace Lightman

Jamie Yost • Atlas

MATT TEBBUTT

Emily Scott

Becky Excell • Jude Kereama

Andrew Tuck • Stephane Delourme

Tom Bray • Grant Goodson

MUSIC Mussel Beach DJs • The Dive Bar • Silent Disco • Late Night Antics • Coral Club Secret Sets FOOD Demos • Fire Feasts • Chef Tipis

Foraging Masterclasses • The Circus Chef Restaurant • Cooking Over Fire CULTURE Talks & Inspiring Ideas • Wonderment Cabaret & Comedy

Basar Bazaar Arts & Crafts Workshops FAMILY Abracadabra! Fancy Dress Parade • The Flying Seagull Project • Mischief The Mermaid • Flotsam

The Fool Bushcraft • Little Fish Cookery School • Under The Canopy • Fairground • Cosmic's Art Space • Circus Skills • The Jellyfish Tent WELLBEING Hot Tubs & Sauna • Massage • Reflexology • Facials • Spa Morvoren • Yoga

Meet the team

Left to right: Chris, Dale, Rosanna, Jo, Claire, Abi, Tamsin, Selena, Charlotte and Nick

Photographed by Guy Harrop at The Collective at Woolsery in Devon

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Editorial Abi Manning, Melissa Morris, Jo Rees, Rosanna Rothery, Selena Young

Design Christopher Mulholland Publishing Charlotte Cummins, Tamsin Powell Accounts Richard Bailey

Commercial/advertising Nick Cooper, Claire Fegan, Jeni Smith – 01271 859182

Cover image Hazel McNab

Publisher Salt Media – ideas@saltmedia.co.uk, 01271 859299, saltmedia.co.uk

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Thanks to our clients for supporting the magazine that supports South West independent businesses. Copyright The contents of this magazine are fully protected by copyright and may not be reproduced without permission. Disclaimer While every effort has been made to ensure that adverts, details and articles appear correctly, Food Lifestyle cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of this publication. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor. Print We're serious about protecting the planet, which is why we print using solvent‑free inks on FSC®‑certified paper, working with a printer that holds ISO14001 certification for environmental good practice. Published 2024

Katie on the farm with golden retriever Banzai

10 Things to do this season

1. SEND HOMEGROWN FLOWERS For nearly a decade, Dorset Flower Co founder Katie Priestley has grown flowers on her family farm near Dorchester.

Katie nurtures approximately 200 varieties of flowers, from armfuls of sweetpeas and dahlias to sweet‑scented garden roses and peonies. The resulting bouquets and arrangements provide a smorgasbord of colours, textures and scents. Unlike many imported cut flowers, Katie takes an environmentally sound and sustainable approach. She avoids the use of chemicals, nurtures soil health and forgoes plastic floral foam.

Visit one of Katie's year‑round floral workshops at the farm or order a seasonal bouquet of her flowers to be sent anywhere in the UK (from £35 via dorsetflowerco.com).

2. HAVE LUNCH AT AN ORGANIC FARM Nancarrow Farm (nancarrowfarm.co.uk) in Cornwall celebrates 25 years as an organic farm this year, and is giving foodies the chance to visit by launching its new Courtyard Lunches. They'll run throughout summer (Fridays only) with main courses starting at £12.50. Expect a farm‑to‑table feast of home‑reared organic beef, lamb and seasonal produce, plus bread from the on‑site bakery.

Summer Sunday Lunches are also back this season to deliver a lighter take on the traditional lunch, via a set two‑course £30 menu. Follow the feelgood gluttony with a stroll around the farm to visit the grazing herds, greenhouse and vegetable gardens.

3. THROW A CENA CON AMICI Invite Pina and Nico of Campania Kitchen (campaniakitchen.co.uk) to your home to craft an Italian supper party. The cooks, based in north Devon, come with high‑quality kitchen creds and craft authentic dishes from the Campania region.

Casual summertime eats include these beautiful little packages of fritto misto served with aioli.

4. CHECK OUT REEF KNOT The Idle Rocks (idlerocks.com) in St Mawes is one of our favourite hotels, and its smart styling and stunning location are bolstered by quality cooking. Its latest gastronomic evolution, Reef Knot, is the creation of new exec head chef Stuart Shaw and centres on St Mawes‑landed fish. Make sure you start any visit with aperitifs on the terrace.

Image: Guy Harrop

5. IMMERSE YOURSELF IN ROSES For a scented sensory experience, head to RHS Rosemoor (rhs.org.uk) in Great Torrington, Devon, during its Festival of Roses. The gardens have one of the UK's largest collections of roses – 200 varieties and over 2,000 specimens –from cottage garden climbers to modern varieties.

Visit between June 15 and July 14 or for the special Rose Weekend on June 21–23, which includes family entertainments and an artisan craft and food market.

6. VISIT THE FALMOUTH INTERNATIONAL

SEA SHANTY FESTIVAL Join the crowd of carousing shanty singers and feasters from all over the world who'll congregate at the 20th anniversary of the much‑loved festival on June 14‑16.

Fave Falmouth restaurant Indidog (indidogeatery.com) will erect its waterside marquee for three days of casual food and beers from festival sponsor Sharp's Brewery. Expect musical fun and frolics all weekend as the entertainment runs back to back. Or head into the restaurant (pictured) for a delicious lunch or dinner.

Image: Clive Nichols/RHS

7. GO ISLAND HOPPING This is the season to visit the Isles of Scilly. Escape to the tiny islands in the Atlantic to discover an unspoilt paradise of white‑sand beaches, pristine waters and subtropical plants as you skip from one isle to the next. Stay on Tresco or Bryher for glamour, St Martin's for the best beaches or St Agnes for rustic camping in a spectacular setting.

8. PERFECT THE ART OF THE PALOMA

Consider this your klaxon call on summer's coolest aperitif.

Like its cousin Margarita, the Paloma (‘dove’ in Spanish) is a Mexican classic which balances sweet, sour, salty and bitter with the bite of tequila. Where they differ is the Paloma's backbone of pink grapefruit instead of lime.

It couldn't be easier to mix up a Paloma at home. For a single serving, fill a cocktail shaker with ice and 50ml of tequila, 15ml of freshly squeezed lime juice, 10ml of simple syrup (50/50 water and sugar) and 70ml of pink grapefruit juice. Shake until chilled, then strain the liquid into an ice‑filled glass.

(For a salted glass, first dip the rim in lime juice then dab on a saucer of crushed sea salt.)

Top with sparkling water and garnish with sliced lime, a wedge of pink grapefruit and a sprig of fresh rosemary for summer colour.

9. FEAST IN A VINEYARD Knightor Winery (knightor.com) at Portscatho in Cornwall has reopened its casual barn‑dining experience in the vineyard. The Vine mixes wood‑fired streetfood with fabulous wines and views, delivering an experience that captures the Cornish casual‑feasting scene.

Loads of rural space, giant Jenga and indoor and outdoor tables make it a find for both grown‑ups and those with youngsters in tow. Visit for food from Wednesdays to Saturdays and for wine tastings with snacks on Thursdays and Fridays. You can even buy Knightor wines to take home.

10. TAKE A FOODIE TOUR OF LYME REGIS The Dorset town's raft of quality restaurants has turned it into a magnet for foodies, who now rival the hordes of visiting fossil‑seekers. Discover the best places to eat out (including SWIM, pictured) in our feature at food‑mag.co.uk/tour‑lyme

Image: Matt Austin

Firestarter

Great British Menu chef Andi Tuck is blazing a trail for flame-driven flavour at his open kitchen in Cornwall. Selena Young stoked the chef for campfire cooking memories, his role at Harbour House and tips for barbecue beginners

Image: Adam Sargent

It's always fascinating to discover the catalyst that caused someone to find their calling early and how they made their dream come true – the successful roaster who first tried “proper” coffee on their travels, the acclaimed artist for whom inspiration struck after a school trip to a gallery. For chef Andi Tuck, his interest in open-fire cooking was first sparked when he was a teenage scout in Somerset.

‘My earliest food memories are from cooking in Scouts. Being a scout in the 90s was brilliant as there was so little red tape we could do whatever we wanted. I loved it, so it was always me who did the cooking. I even wore a “camp cook” badge!

‘I remember making bread in underground ovens and toasting s'mores over open fires,’ he says. ‘Pretty much everything was cooked over fire and it was really good fun.’

Somerset was home, but it was another South West destination that had the greatest influence on Andi's cooking career:

‘My parents have family ties with Cornwall and we would holiday there all the time. Every weekend and school holiday we were on the coast in Polzeath,’ he says.

It was during his late teens that Andi first gained experience working in professional kitchens, first at The Wild Fish and then at other pubs and restaurants in Polzeath. Ten years later, in 2011, his interest in open-fire cooking was reignited after he was selected to go to Sweden on the 22nd World Scout Jamboree as a leader for the Somerset and Devon contingent.

‘In Sweden each area has its own flavour of smoke because each family does it a little bit differently using wood from surrounding trees,’ says Andi. ‘I remember these guys smoking fish in the woods. They simply hung the fish, covered in a makeshift bivouac (branches positioned to make a little tent). It was just so different from how I was cooking at the time. That was the eureka moment for me.’

‘You can't cook classically over fire; you have to follow your instincts’

Playing with fire

Andi returned to the UK with fire in his belly. He took 18 months out from working in restaurants and joined fire-focused chefs Ben Quinn and Simon Stallard. ‘Ben and Simon are very inspiring and I learnt a lot from them,’ he says. ‘I helped Ben with his Wood Fired Weddings and did a stint at Wilderness Festival with Simon. While working with Ben I started my own seafood business Tan and Mor.’

A return to restaurants saw Andi head up Surfside in Polzeath, but in a way that worked with his now-preferred cooking style. ‘I wanted to take what I had learnt about open-fire cooking and implement it in a restaurant, so I made a big drum barbecue.’

Although it's now more commonplace to find wood-fired food on menus and catch sight of chefs cooking up a firestorm in restaurant gardens, it was highly unusual when Andi trialled it at Surfside. His signature cooking style developed further at his next job as head chef of St Kew Inn in north Cornwall.

Andi's proud to have been a pioneer in the movement: ‘It was good to be at the forefront of open-fire cooking five years ago with Simon. We did a lot of events in Cornwall together, but I think I was the first to bring it into a restaurant environment,’ he says. ››

For Andi, fireside feasts are eternally fascinating.

‘I think it goes back to a primal instinct – you see fire and you just can't help but gravitate towards it. There's a lot of spiritual and mesmerising energy around fire and it's exciting to cook food in that environment. It's a form of theatre.’

There's no denying its impact on flavour, either.

‘I haven't cooked anything in a pan for ten years because it lacks the flavour complexities of fire-cooked food. When you cook meat in a pan you turn it a couple of times, but on the fire we turn it every 10-15 seconds which keeps building layer upon layer of flavour.’

‘I've got unfinished business in the Great British Menu kitchen’

Firestarter fundamentals

Learning the fundamentals of open-fire cooking can be a minefield.

‘There aren't really any cookbooks that explicitly tell you how to cook over fire,’ says Andi. ‘When cooking fish, for example, I dry the skin out, salt it, then quickly put it on the fire and keep it moving to build up char, texture and flavour. That's my secret: ignore the oldschool mentality of “don't touch it and don't move it”. You can't cook classically when you're cooking over fire; you have to follow your instincts.’

Using your intuition isn't always easily translated into a traditional recipe format, but there are tried-and-tested foods he thinks are next-level when given the fire-licked treatment.

‘John dory is my go-to, as is pork paired with applewood logs. Veggie-wise, there's nothing better than celeriac – I burn the hell out of the skin then offset it in the hot smoker for five hours and, oh my god, ember-baked celeriac with smoked butter is insane.’

Taking flames to Flushing

It was in February this year that Andi took over as head chef of Harbour House in Flushing. He's putting his stamp on the restaurant in smoky style, while utilising the brilliant ingredients at his fingertips.

‘I like to follow the ethos of metres not miles when it comes to sourcing and we're lucky to work with incredible local producers, farmers and fishermen. For instance, the mussels and oysters come fresh from the waters right outside the pub.

‘I also forage, which gives me inspiration, and I love fishing – there's no better feeling than catching something and cooking it there and then on the barbecue ’

Harbour House

All fired up

Andi's new role at Harbour House coincided with his second appearance on the BBC's Great British Menu 2024 – which almost didn't happen.

‘I was five weeks into a ten-week recovery from a double hernia, and I'd lost my brother-in-law a couple of weeks beforehand,’ he says. ‘At the time of shooting I wasn't the head chef at St Kew anymore and hadn't started at Harbour, so I was in limbo. Doing all of the training from home was challenging, but I don't like to quit so I persevered and I think I did pretty well

‘Things inevitably go wrong but it's about how you adapt to it; that's the art of being a good chef. I’ve got unfinished business in the Great British Menu kitchen so I will do it again if they ask me, although it might not be next year.’ he says.

The chef will also be appearing at some of the region's hottest foodie festivals, including one he's particularly looking forward to in late July:

‘Rock Oyster is my local festival and one I've gone back to every year,’ he says.

‘This year I'm hosting Fire Feasts on the Friday and Saturday, which is really exciting. It'll be four courses created by me and my Great British Menu friends –they'll recreate some of their favourite dishes with a fire twist. On the Sunday, I'll be working with the Harbour House team to create my Smokey Sunday – a flamegrilled roast lunch with all the trimmings. Think charred

veggies, seared rump of beef, crisp potatoes and giant yorkshire puddings ’

What else is Andi looking forward to at the fest?

‘It's always fun to hang out with Matt Tebbutt and I look forward to seeing Nathan Outlaw – I've got a lot of respect for him – and Tom Brown who's a great chef and Cornish ambassador. I also can't wait to watch Human League and to hit The Lookout – a secret spot where up-and-coming DJs play till late.’

Also this summer, Andi will host barbecue takeovers at Harbour House's sister venues Beach House and School House in Devon. What better way to sample the chef's flamed feasts than while basking in summer rays by the coast? ››

Andi's tips for beginnersbarbecue

Get a decent charcoal barbecue: disposable barbecues are terrible for the environment and flavour, and gas barbecues won't give the same flavour results.

Lamb is great for a first attempt at cooking steak on a barbie – it's not a problem if you undercook it.

If you're cooking fish, salt it then leave it for ten minutes before cooking. This helps to stop it sticking to the grill.

Don't have the fire too hot or too cold. Light the fire, place your hand a foot above and if you can hold it there for four seconds, it's perfect.

Main Picture: Morso Forno Oven.

Top left: Rangemaster Nexus. Top right: RB73 Fennek 50.

Andi's Cornwall

The chef reveals his favourite finds

St Kew Farmshop & Cafe,

A39 near Bodmin

I live in St Kew so I'm a regular at this farmshop and cafe, which deals in great breakfasts and top coffee. There's always a selection of incredible plants too.

The Rum Bar at Surfside, Polzeath

I was behind the team that built The Rum Bar so I've got a lot of love for it. My summer order is a Polzeath Zombie: four different rums in one cocktail. That's sure to sort you out on a hot day.

Prawn on the Lawn, Padstow

You can't have a bad experience when you visit. The food, service, drinks ... they've nailed it.

St Kew Farmshop & Cafe

Canteen at the Eco Park, Porthtowan

When you want something quick, light and affordable this is the place to go. The ethos behind the food is impressive too.

One Day, Wadebridge

This little cafe is a great spot for quality sandwiches and caffeine.

Hawksfield, Wadebridge

I'll pop into the Finisterre outlet on a Thursday to get the best deals after they restock on a Wednesday, then head into The Arc to check out the food, wine and cookbooks.

Plonk'd, Wadebridge

For a drink in Wadebridge I'll head here. Founder Jonny Mutch used to be the manager at Prawn on the Lawn and his cocktails are epic.

Prawn on the Lawn

Trencherman's Awards 2024

The South West's favourite hospitality event got a glamorous vintage makeover this year as the region's leading chefs and restaurateurs donned their gladrags at Bovey Castle. Here's what went down

Images: Guy Harrop

Above Chefs who cooked on the night: Andrew, Scott, Rick and Mark

After a glam coastal ceremony in Salcombe in 2023, the Trencherman's Awards 2024 headed inland to the rolling valleys of Dartmoor National Park and host venue Bovey Castle. In keeping with the historic location, the Trencherman's Guide team threw a vintage country-house party, with attendees sporting appropriate attire.

The evening began with a Champagne reception with canapés and additional G&Ts from Trevethan Distillery and Navas. Dinner comprised a multi-course feast prepared by chefs (pictured left) Andrew Swann of The Castle at Taunton (starter), Rick Toogood of Prawn on the Lawn (fish course), Mark Budd of Bovey Castle (main course) and Scott Paton of Àclèaf at Boringdon Hall Hotel (pudding), plus a South West cheese course. Each dish was paired with stellar wines from Hallgarten & Novum and beer from Sharp's Brewery.

Following tens of thousands of votes from Trencherman's Guide readers, the winners were announced during the prizegiving ceremony. Turn the page to find out who won. ››

Trencherman's Awards 2024 winners

Best Trencherman's Chef

Sponsored by Hallgarten & Novum Wines

Winner: Ben Palmer of The Sardine Factory, Looe

Finalists: Dave Jenkins of Salumi Bar & Eatery, Plymouth; Harriet Mansell of Lilac Restaurant & Wine Bar, Lyme Regis; Nicholas Balfe of Holm, South Petherton; Rick Toogood of Prawn on the Lawn, Padstow

Best Trencherman's Restaurant

Sponsored by Dole

Winner: Holm, South Petherton

Finalists: Edie's, Carlyon Bay; Kota Restaurant, Porthleven; The Clockspire Restaurant and Bar, Sherborne; The Sardine Factory, West Looe

Best Trencherman's Hotel

Sponsored by Classic Fine Foods

Winner: Scarlet Hotel, Mawgan Porth

Finalists: The Godolphin Hotel & Restaurant, Marazion; The Manor House, Castle Combe; The Seaside Boarding House, Burton Bradstock; The Slaughters Manor House, Lower Slaughter

Best Trencherman's Pub

Sponsored by Sharp's Brewery

Winner: The Dartmoor Inn, Lydford

Finalists: The Langford Inn, Langford; The Old Coastguard, Mousehole; The Sheppey Inn, Wells; Three Horseshoes Pub & Kitchen, Burton Bradstock

Award for Creativity and Innovation

Sponsored by St. Ewe

Winner: Lilac Restaurant & Wine Bar, Lyme Regis

Finalists: Circa, Sandridge Barton; Holm, South Petherton; Queen of Cups, Glastonbury; The Queen's Arms, Corton Denham

Best Front of House Team

Sponsored by Navas

Winner: Tom's Lyme Regis

Finalists: Fletcher's Restaurant, Plymouth; The Bath Arms at Longleat, Horningsham; The Bell Inn, Selsley; The Bunch of Grapes, Bradford-on-Avon

Best Trencherman's Newcomer

Sponsored by Harvey & Brockless

Winner: Queen of Cups, Glastonbury

Finalists: Bar & Bistro at Tintagel Brewery, Tintagel; Bedruthan Hotel & Spa, Mawgan Porth; Catch at the Old Fish Market, Weymouth; Source Kitchen, St Ives

Best Bar List

Sponsored by South West 660

Winner: The Old Coastguard, Mousehole

Finalists: Beckford Bottle Shop, Bath; Fistral Beach Hotel and Spa, Newquay; The Club House, West Bexington; Winslade Manor Bar & Restaurant, Exeter

Award for Special Contribution

Sponsored by Trevethan Distillery

Winner: The Polizzi family

Notes from a Michelin kitchen

Ever wondered what it's really like getting a Michelin star? Chef Scott Paton of Àclèaf at Boringdon Hall near Plymouth reveals all

There's a shroud of intrigue surrounding all things Michelin: the review process, the MI5-style anonymity of inspectors, the behind-closed-doors agonies of chefs struggling to achieve and – even more torturous – maintain their star. Yet it's no secret that it's extraordinary cooking and a specific quality of dining experience that unlocks Michelin-star status. Scott shares the experience of achieving his first star last year.

What are the key elements to get right?

Michelin looks for an exceptionally high level of consistency, a constant striving to be better, and to see a chef's personality come through in the cooking. The diner should be able to tell which restaurant a plate of food has come from.

How do you avoid being overly influenced by other chefs?

We've never taken much notice of what other places are doing; it's really important to me that we create our own style. Perhaps that's why it took a little longer to gain our star. However, I'm comfortable we did it the right way.

Did you identify your Michelin reviewer?

We had no inkling we were being reviewed when they actually visited. There's an expectation that inspectors will be single diners – which is actually not true – and being close to Derriford Hospital we have a lot of doctors who come in alone. You don't know who the inspector is and there's no contact

with Michelin whatsoever; you simply have to be comfortable with what you're doing and do it on a consistent basis.

Does the star feel like a burden?

The biggest pressure is the fear of losing it. There's also the thing about not feeling good enough; I'm not an overconfident person so imposter syndrome set in for me pretty quickly. In the couple of months after gaining the star we were trying to keep everything exactly the same, but then I realised that we earnt it in the first place by being progressive. That was a liberating moment.

‘The biggest pressure is the fear of losing the star’

What's the atmosphere like in your kitchen?

It's hyper focused. The only conversations that take place are related to service, and all the lights are switched off apart from those at the pass so we can really concentrate on what we're putting on the plate.

acleaf.co.uk

Image: Matthew

Hawkey

Sandy in her conservatory, surrounded by her tiles and pots

Sandy Brown TASTEMAKER

International ceramicist Sandy tells Rosanna Rothery about her life in Appledore

Images: Guy Harrop

She is known for her spontaneous and bold use of colour and clay. An influential figure in the world of ceramics, Sandy Brown's vivacious work can be found in more than 30 museums worldwide, including London's V&A.

Her large-scale sculptures prove to be provocative talking points, including her magnificent Temple (commissioned by Sotheby's for an exhibition at Chatsworth House) and Earth Goddess (the South West's answer to the Angel of the North).

Despite this international acclaim, for the past 30 years she has chosen the relative obscurity of a quaint north Devon fishing village in which to base her studio and home.

Appledore has long attracted artists, craftspeople, musicians, fishermen and foodie entrepreneurs, and Sandy's studio in a former sail-making loft is a magnet for art lovers and ceramic collectors from across the globe.

At home, in her open-plan kitchen with sweeping views over the River Torridge, her impetuous and joyful approach to her craft is evident in the array of quirky teapots, platters, pots and jugs perched on every surface. Her delight in simplicity, colour and shape resonates from each functional yet playful piece. ››

Creative influences

Sandy learnt the art of ceramics while living in Japan, but it wasn't the only passion she acquired at that time. She says: ‘My love of good coffee developed while I was there; people in Japan are absolutely mad about coffee.

‘I particularly remember this travelling man who used to come into my friend's pottery with all his possessions in a rucksack. In it were the green coffee beans he had walked 200 miles to and from Tokyo to buy, a handmade roaster, a fan to cool it down, his own handmade jug and a handcrafted filter. He used to stay at the pottery for three days at a time and they would feed him and he would make the coffee.

‘While living there I used to frequent a little coffee shop which could only seat around ten people. It specialised in coffee from a precise south-facing slope on a particular mountain in Colombia.’

Sandy's Appledore

Socialising

I love to go to Appledore Dining Club, which meets in the village's wine bar The Yard. As you never know who you will be seated next to, it's a lovely way to build connections with new people as well as catch up with old friends. There's usually a themed menu so you could be eating anything from Japanese cuisine to dishes from a local cookbook.

Neither the dining club or venue have a “snobby rich” atmosphere; the vibe is open and creative, much like Appledore itself.

I also go to the pub to listen to live music. I rarely have to leave Appledore for a fun evening out because there are usually two or three gigs happening in the village every weekend.

Sourcing ingredients

Breakfast and lunch always come from deli and grocer Johns of Appledore. I get everything there, including sourdough from Appledore Bakery and Roastworks coffee. In fact, I can't remember the last time I shopped anywhere else.

For dinner, I usually cook fresh fish, which I get from two great sources: a boat called The Serene Skye, which posts on Facebook when it goes out and sells its fish from a cabin on the quay. There's also the Devon and Cornwall Fish Company at the fish dock. It's great to know everything you buy from them was swimming in the sea the day before.

I often follow the fish course with a pudding based on a local recipe such as an apple chappie – a crumble made with suet.

‘I love rowing and am a member of Torridge Pilot Gig Club’

If I have friends staying I usually cook dinner at home for them as I like using my own ceramics and exploring the whole relationship between pots and food. I appreciate good cooking when I eat out but I don't always like the tableware it's presented on.

Getting outdoors

I love rowing and am a member of Torridge Pilot Gig Club. It's great exercise for the whole body, especially the core and legs. To get power in the stroke you have to row fairly slowly, which makes you breathe deeply and evenly. It's a non-aerobic form of exercise and you can keep going longer.

It's always wonderful to be out on the river in nature and it's really nice to row as a team. You have to work together and be totally in sync with each other.

THE CURATION

Sustainable summer kit

Selena Young rounds up special finds that'll see you through countless summers. Each piece is from a South West company and boasts eco-friendly creds

Davy J Waterwear

Bathing cossies have a hefty checklist to live up to: stylish, secure, smoothing, long-lasting and, for those who care about the environment, sustainable. Plymouth brand Davy J Waterwear (davyj.com) ticks all the boxes with its beautiful sculpting and active swimwear designed for carefree adventures in and around the water. Every item is crafted with a sustainable conscience from quality materials, and the range even includes its latest innovation: the Zero Trace Swimsuit which is fully biodegradable.

Bird eyewear

‘ We're a bunch of nature lovers turned eyewear aficionados, ’ say the Bird team (findyourbirds.com), who create specs and sunnies that are inspired by (and kind to) the natural environment.

As a B Corp-certified company, all of its eyewear is crafted from eco-friendly materials including recycled aluminium and sustainably-sound plastic and wood. Bird follows a ‘Birdifesto’ which states: ‘We're here to break the norms and playfully commit to disrupting an industry full of rubbish.’

If you're eyeballing the stores for a fresh pair of shades, Bird's range of coloured frames make a stylishly sustainable statement.

Dick Pearce & Friends bellyboards

Little ones and adults will relish the thrill of being carried from sea to shore on a wooden bellyboard made by Dick Pearce & Friends (dickpearce.com) in Newquay. Whether seeking a colourful design, a sleek natural tone, or a bespoke illustration or engraving, there's a board to suit.

In a bid to stop sea lovers using polystyrene boards, Dick Pearce & Friends also offers a Surf Wood for Good service where boards are rented for free at certain coastal destinations. ››

Clockwise from Left Davy J Classic Crossback Swimsuit; Bird sunnies; Dick Pearce bellyboards Image: Jamie Mitchell

Temple Cycles

Aiming to steer cyclists away from the ‘throwaway and upgrade’ culture of the bicycle industry, Bristol's Temple Cycles (templecycles.co.uk) build bikes of exceptional quality that are made to last.

The team take a refreshing approach to manufacturing bikes, ensuring they're easy to fix and maintain, and that spares are readily available. If you're looking to invest in a new set of wheels to see you through decades of adventures, start by roadtesting the Classic range of lightweight bikes suitable for everyday use.

Francli Craftwear

Francli's rucksacks are bags for life (not the kind you find in the supermarket), each painstakingly handcrafted to last a lifetime.

From a converted cattle barn studio at Argal Home Farm near Falmouth (a vibrant hub of makers and creators that includes Yallah Coffee roasters), the Francli (francli.co.uk) team take time to perfect each custom rucksack. Choose from a collection of sustainable fabrics and materials, customise from a selection of design features, then await your made-to-measure bag.

There's also a lucky dip colourway option for daring folk, and a wider selection of ready-to-ship and made-to-order canvas totes, leather crossbody bags and aprons.

Clockwise from left Classic wheels from Temple Cycles; Rooted Ocean threads; LEOA swimwear; Francli Craftwear bag; Finisterre + DARN shorts

Rooted Ocean

This Bude brand should be on any wave rider's radar for its quality kit and clothing with a coastal aesthetic. Of course, you don't need to be a surfer to wear one of its tees or snap up a quality picnic blanket – a summer must-have.

Rooted (rootedocean.com) calls its Traveller Blanket a go-to adventure companion as it's generously sized but neatly compact for easy carrying. The blankets are 100 per cent waterproof, made using sustainable British materials and come with a lifetime guarantee.

LEOA

Slow-fashion swimwear brand LEOA (leoastudio.co.uk) was founded by Brigid Liddle with the goal that each costume or two piece could be comfortably worn in active environments – whether wild swimming or surfing.

Brigid designs, makes and tests the durable swimwear in her Totnes studio, using materials such as Econyl recycled nylon (made using waste products such as abandoned fishing nets) which is pilling-resistant, retains its shape, compresses muscles and is velvety soft. Any offcuts are turned into scrunchies.

Finisterre + DARN

Cornwall's well-travelled surf-lifestyle clothing brand Finisterre (finisterre.com) recently collaborated with DARN, a female-founded and small-scale Cornwall brand producing striking clothing and accessories in limited runs.

The resulting line-up includes a DARN (darncollective.com) reinvention of the Finisterre fan-favourite Yarrel Short (pictured) featuring a sky-blue and watermelon-pink block stripe print. Made from hard-wearing organic cotton, they'll see you through future summers and holidays in the sun.

Image: James Bannister

Image: Leia Morrison

Image: Abbi Hughes

Eating out

The Food Lifestyle team dine at the South West's most interesting restaurants to reveal where's worth a visit

Image: Thomas Greetham

Escala in Clevedon

EATING OUT

The Alverton

Selena Young discovers a historic hotel with good cooking in the heart of the Cornish capital

What’s the draw? Many of us will have been stung by an unfortunate Airbnb experience –forgetting to tick ‘entire home’ and kipping in someone's garage springs to mind (yes, really). So it was while staying at The Alverton that I was reminded of the reliability, hospitable charm and inviting extras that quality hotels deliver.

Homestay apps have their place, of course, but there's no denying that hotels like The Alverton reign supreme for a city break, especially when they have a Trencherman's Guide-rated/two-AA-rosette restaurant in-house. Good luck finding that in a holiday rental.

The Alverton is hidden away on the edge of the Cornish capital, and reached by a steep winding driveway that dramatically reveals the Grade II*-listed building as you emerge at the top. Its historic backstory – it was a convent as well as the home of William Tweedy, president of the RHS – is evident in period features such as a bell tower and mullion windows, and in the mature gardens that encircle the building.

We stayed in a suite in the hotel's courtyard, one of a secluded complex of guestrooms that blend old with new in heavenly style. Arched windows and exposed stonework and beams made a characterful counterbalance to plush fabrics, a swan-dive-deserving king-size bed and a freestanding copper tub, which gleamed in the light streaming through stained-glass windows.

Cooking creds Exec chef Nick Hodges and head chef Ollie Wyatt are the talented duo who ensure the à la carte menu is flush with seasonal Cornish fare.

What to order? Our dining experience kicked off at the bar with a Cornish Negroni and a local ale, although on balmy evenings the terrace is the best spot for an aperitif.

A starter of scorched mackerel served with a piquant rhubarb chutney and pickled vegetables was a taste of the pleasures to come. Just as beautifully executed was a dish of chilled Creedy Carver duck breast on a bed of rice noodles, dressed in a chilli and coriander dressing with toasted peanuts.

There's a popular notion that fish tastes better by the sea, but our catch-of-the-day main of pan-roasted grey mullet with a side of crisp monkfish cheek challenged that contention. Served with smoked leeks and a buttery sauce, the meatiness of the monkfish made a delicious contrast to the delicate mullet. Sea views are nice but those monkfish cheeks were nicer.

The indulgent finale included a chilled chocolate and sea-salt caramel fondant with malted ice cream and raspberry jus, and a summery, wicked-sharp passionfruit cheesecake.

Need to know The hotel hosts lots of interesting events including regular live music on the terrace in summer, themed balls, festivals, chef tasting evenings and special afternoon teas.

The Alverton

Tregolls Road, Truro, Cornwall, TR1 1ZQ thealverton.co.uk

Mint at Tewkesbury Park

South West produce is fused with South Asian flavours at this rural Cotswolds resort, discovers Abi Manning

Image: John Carey

What's the draw? This Gloucestershire hotel and country club is a sought-after spot for golfers who tee off at its tree-studded par-72 parkland course. However, it's the hotel's restaurant Mint that scores a hole-in-one for foodies who discover its unique blend of local and Asian flavours.

Add attractions including a spa stocked with Bath-made Natural Spa Factory products, a gym, tennis and squash courts, and luxurious historic suites and rooms with countryside views and it's tempting to upgrade your dinner reservation to a full gourmet getaway.

Who's cooking? Executive chef Anuj Thakur weaves expertise in Indian cooking with an appreciation of local produce. His CV includes roles at Cheltenham's The Mahal and Totnes' Dartington Hall – he achieved two AA rosettes at both. At Mint, Anuj amalgamates this experience to infuse Asian elements into precisely and attractively plated modern British dishes.

What to order? Plump for the six-course Taste of Tewkesbury Park menu to experience Anuj's cooking in full swing.

A Cornetto Surprise amuse bouche of fresh white crab meat with avocado in a cornet was served at the table by the chef and followed by bouncy sourdough with butter from a local dairy, to which Anuj had given a hint of curry.

Hot on its heels came a dish of Chalkstream trout, which turned out to be a triple masterclass in texture, balance and no-waste ethos. The fish's crispy skin curled over a tower of lightly spiced fennel bhaji, soft mango relish, wilted spinach and radish, with everything bathed in a lick-the-bowl-clean curried cream made with stock from the mussels that studded the plate.

The meaty dishes that followed provided more standout moments: spiced Gressingham duck paired with a rich confit-leg tart was balanced by sweet rolled golden beetroot. Hereford beef with carrot, truffle potato cream and rich Merlot jus was partnered with brisket cannelloni and a swipe of black-garlic puree.

A pre-dessert of poached rhubarb with bergamot and lemon sorbet and cubes of Champagne jelly provided a palate cleanser before the dark finale of a beautiful Valrhona chocolate marquise with banana, hazelnut, miso caramel and greek yogurt sorbet.

Need to know This is a cracking spot for a multigenerational weekend away where guests can play as well as feast. With table tennis, croquet, a driving range, giant garden games, a swimming pool, Willy Wonka-esque brunch bar and local activities from paddleboarding to pottery, there's something to keep the whole gang entertained.

Tewkesbury Park

Lincoln Green Lane, Tewkesbury, Gloucestershire, GL20 7DN tewkesburypark.co.uk

The Chagford Inn

Unusually special cooking in a comfy Dartmoor inn makes this one for your hit-list, says Jo Rees

What's the draw? Astonishingly lovely dining-pub dishes served in a comfy and casual rural inn. Each day, visitors to the historic village of Chagford – and they come in droves in summer – must wander past this place with no inkling of the excellent eating to be found behind its terracotta facade.

Who's cooking? Chef Ollie Vernon and partner Jordan Ralph (front of house) had the nail-biting experience of taking on the pub just before lockdown. Happily, the couple managed to hang in there and, on opening, turned it into a very special spot.

Ollie learnt to cook at Exeter College and has worked at decent restaurants around the South West – although not the kind of big-name places you'd know. In fact, part of The Chagford Inn's charm is that Ollie developed his skills off his own bat, without a high-profile chef mentor in sight. He was hungry to get his own place where he could source quality local ingredients and use his considerable culinary talents to craft them into top-tier dishes – and he's pulled it off.

What to order? There are nibbles such as homemade focaccia and home-cured bresaola to launch with, but they aren't nearly as knockout as the generously sized starters, mains and puds, so we'd suggest sacrificing anything that results in less room for three fabulous courses.

On our visit, we went piscatorial for starters with oily chunks of cured salmon, cut with blood-orange slices, dotted with labneh and given crunch by a shard of crisp rye bread. Another dish of succulent Brixham scallops was presented just as elegantly: the seafood paired with cauliflower and herb oil, given salty bite by squares of panfried black pudding, and dressed with monk's beard.

For mains we plumped for a dish whose ingredients read like classic peasant cooking – Dartmoor rabbit, cannellini beans, kale and pickled garlic – but which turned out to be polished restaurant fare. Expertly rolled saddle, a crisp croquette of dark meat and a rich rabbit reduction on a bed of beans (with fresh veg) was smart and balanced.

The best was yet to come, however. We put Ollie to the test by ordering the chocolate fondant – the classic downfall of many a TV cooking contestant – to which he responded insouciantly with a flawlessly molten pudding paired with homemade ice cream on chocolate soil and the bite of caramel popcorn and crisp honeycomb.

However, the pièce de résistance was the chouxbarb crumble: a crumble-topped puffy choux bun, split and filled with vanilla cream, pink forced rhubarb and vanilla ice cream. Exquisitely delicious and gloriously messy to eat, it screamed to be picked up and scoffed like a burger, cream splurging out of the sides as you attacked it face-on. Maybe next time ...

Need to know Three guestrooms in an adjacent building provide the opportunity to make it an overnighter.

The Chagford Inn

7 Mill Street, Chagford, Dartmoor, TQ13 8AW thechagfordinn.co.uk

Escala

The satisfying symbiosis of scoffing seafood tapas while overlooking the ocean isn't lost on Abi Manning, who turns up an authentic find in the seaside town of Clevedon

Image: Thomas Greetham

What’s the draw? You don't need to hit the city for quality tapas when this find in the coastal surroundings of Clevedon Beach delivers an authentic experience by the bucketload.

Pick from a trio of perches: a sunny terrace delivering the full salty-sea-air experience, a bright conservatory with traditional Spanishtile floor, or a restaurant enhanced by shelves stacked with authentic Spanish produce.

Small plates are served as and when they're ready, creating a pleasingly laid-back vibe in keeping with the pace of seaside life.

Who's cooking? Richard Range, formerly of Bristol's Pasture, heads up the kitchen. The Zimbabwean-born chef excels in this intimate setting, nurturing young chefs and instilling his passion for dishes crafted from quality produce.

What to order? The menu gets switched up a few times each week, so there's always something new to try. Seasonality and quality are paramount – whether in speciality ingredients imported from Spain (including an extensive selection of wines) or fish landed on South West shores.

In this setting it would be criminal not to sample at least a few of the seafood plates, so we dived into an order of vieras (scallops) fresh that morning from Brixham via Bristol's Conscious Food. The plump shellfish delivered flavour in spades when paired with a sprinkle of crunchy, salty bacon, the sweetness of maple and sriracha's fire. Next came a caballa (mackerel) dish – a vision in green with its plate-mates of artichoke and courgette, which were dressed with a red pepper and chorizo relish.

Who can think of tapas without lusting after the pleasing crunch and smooth interior of Spanish croquettes? Escala's trio featured one made from short rib and served with smoked paprika aioli, another with cod and lime mayo served with bravas sauce and, the pick of the crop, a croquette showcasing the delicate micro-seasonal notes of wild garlic.

We're still thinking about the musio de pollo: chicken thigh with sticky sherry glaze, romesco sauce, pickled cabbage and fennel, and hazelnuts. The fabulous dish showcased Richard's fermentation fixation and provided a tutorial in how to build texture and contrast. Its sweet glaze juxtaposed beautifully with the sour krauts while the tender meat was counterbalanced by the crunch of whole nuts.

A cupula chocolate-dome pudding made for a theatrical finale. Salted caramel sauce was drizzled over a metallic-looking orb which melted to reveal the chocolate soil, marshmallow and honeycomb within.

Need to know Escala's entrepreneurial owners Dom and Alex Lamy have two other establishments in the town (both on Hill Road) which are just as good. Bistro-style bar and restaurant Puro deals in modern British cooking, while Vintage and Vine is a smart bottleshop and bar.

Escala

12 The Beach, Clevedon, North Somerset, BS21 7QU escalatapas.co.uk

Weekend cooking

Padstow chef Paul Ainsworth shares two recipes for seafood nibbles from his new book. Perfect paired with a crisp rosé on a balmy summer's evening ...

Image:

Serves 4

For the salt and pepper mix

Pink peppercorns 2 tbsp

White peppercorns 1 tbsp

Black peppercorns 1 tbsp

Allspice berries 6

Cornish sea salt 50g

For the dipping sauce

Sesame oil 1 tbsp

Shallot 1, peeled and diced

Garlic clove 1, peeled and finely grated

Green jalapeño pepper ½, diced

Pickled ginger 20g, diced

Rice wine vinegar 25ml

Honey 20g

Sweet chilli sauce 30ml

Dark soy sauce ½ tsp

Fresh orange juice 250ml

For the prawns

Olive oil 3 tbsp

Large prawns 8, heads and shells on, deveined

To serve

Lemon 2

Lime 2

Coriander 10g, stalks included, roughly chopped

1 For the salt and pepper mix: place a small frying pan over a medium heat and toast all the peppercorns and the allspice berries for 2 minutes. Transfer the spices to a spice grinder or pestle and mortar and blitz until they are the consistency of cracked or coarse‑ground pepper. Stir the pepper thoroughly with the salt then store in an airtight container. It will keep in a cool, dry place for a few months.

2 For the dipping sauce: warm the sesame oil in a medium‑size saucepan, add the shallot, garlic and jalapeño and cook for 2 minutes to soften. Add the ginger and stir for another minute. Add the rice wine vinegar, turn up the heat and allow to evaporate, then add the honey and sweet chilli sauce and bring to a bubble. Stir in the soy sauce and orange juice, bring to a simmer and reduce the sauce by half, until you have a thick consistency. Take the pan off the heat and leave to cool.

3 For the prawns: place a large frying pan over a high heat and add the olive oil. Season the prawns liberally with the salt and pepper mix. Once the oil is hot, carefully add the prawns one by one and cook for 45 seconds on each side, then transfer them to a large serving platter or board.

4 Finish the prawns with a few rasps of finely grated lemon and lime zest, then scatter over the coriander. Serve the prawns with the dipping sauce and wedges of lemon and lime.

Cornish sea salt and pink-pepper prawns

‘Before cooking, use scissors to snip the raw prawns from the top of the head to the tail. This helps the meat soak up extra flavour in the pan and makes the shells so much easier to peel once they're cooked,’ says Paul.

Squid and scraps with hot sweet-chilli mayonnaise

‘Fresh squid is an incredible ingredient but it can go rubbery quite quickly,’ says Paul. ‘However, this recipe will give you tender results every time, and the bubbles from the sparkling water keep the batter light.’

Serves 4

Olive oil 1l

Large squid 2, prepped and cleaned by a fishmonger

For the batter

Self‑raising flour 220g

Fine salt 2.5g

Nigella seeds 20g

Ground turmeric a small pinch

Sparkling water or soda 340ml

For the hot sweet-chilli mayonnaise

Thick mayonnaise 180g

Sweet chilli sauce 65ml

Ground turmeric a pinch

Frank's Hot Sauce ½ tsp

Lemon ¼, zest

Lemon juice 2 tsp

Tabasco ½ tsp

For the coating

Self‑raising flour 50g

Cornish sea salt

Cracked black pepper

Smoked paprika 10g

To serve

Lemon and/or lime cut into wedges

1 Heat the oil in a saucepan or small deep‑fat fryer until it reaches 180C on a food thermometer.

2 Using a sharp knife, gently score the squid in a fine criss‑cross (this will help tenderise the texture). Cut the pieces into goujons, roughly 5 x 2cm, then cut the tentacles in half.

3 For the batter: put the dry ingredients in a large bowl and stir to combine. Slowly add the fizzy water and whisk until the consistency of double cream.

4 For the hot sweet-chilli mayonnaise: whisk all the ingredients together and chill until needed.

5 For the coating: place the self‑raising flour on a plate and season with salt and pepper. Lightly season the squid with sea salt, then roll it in the seasoned flour. Shake off any excess, then coat the squid in the batter.

6 Carefully transfer the squid to the hot oil, allowing the batter to drip off your fingers into the oil to create the scraps. Fry the squid for 3‑4 minutes until crisp and golden, then drain on kitchen paper and season with salt and smoked paprika.

7 Serve with hot sweet chilli mayonnaise and wedges of lemon or lime, or both.

For the Love of Food: Recipes for life's delicious moments by Paul Ainsworth (Pavilion Books) is out July 4

There's the rub

‘Why limit barbecues to meat when the grill can also bring out extraordinary flavours in vegetables?’ asks Nigel Webster of Cut to the Smoke

The British barbecue may have developed beyond bangers and burgers but vegetables are still second tier in the grilling game. Yet, with the right treatment and some appropriate rubs and spices, they can give meat a run for its money, believes Nigel Webster, founder of Hampshire's Cut to the Smoke.

Redefining the British barbecue

Nigel produces a range of distinctive barbecue seasonings which promises to elevate any ingredient cooked on the grill.

‘We believe in redefining British barbecue by infusing it with adventurous flavours, ’ he says. ‘We source and import quality seasonings that not only elevate flavour, but do so in a health-conscious manner.

‘One of our primary focuses is to use a minimal amount of salt and sugar (less than 15 per cent sugar and 7 per cent salt) so consumers can season to their own taste and allow the flavour of the mixes and charred ingredient to shine.’

Challenging convention

While the Cut to the Smoke range can be used on pretty much anything that can be cooked on the barbie, Nigel's a big advocate for taking veggies next level by giving them a lick of flame.

‘Challenge the conventional,’ he insists. ‘Why limit barbecues to meats when the grill can also bring out extraordinary flavours in vegetables?

‘Aubergine and courgette, often dismissed as watery and tasteless, are transformed by flame. When sliced and charred on the coals, they become flavour-packed delights. A sprinkle of our seasonings adds the perfect finishing touch to intensify their flavours.’

Adding plant‑based dishes to a barbecue will not only please veggie and vegan friends, it'll enhance the gastronomic event for everyone.

‘The greater the variety of vegetables you fire up, the more visually appealing your table,’ says Nigel. ‘Strands of vivid green scorched samphire look fantastic.’

‘Strands of vivid green scorched samphire look fantastic’

Expert tips for barbecuing veg

For those unsure of where to begin, Nigel suggests a simple starting point:

‘Try cooking less-celebrated vegetables such as padron peppers. A few minutes on the grill and they offer a taste that can stand alone as a side dish or complement a meaty main.’

Nigel believes veggies also have the ability to take centre stage:

‘For wow-factor, slice an aubergine in half then in a criss cross pattern, sprinkle with our ground pomegranate and ground cardamom - the citrusy combo works incredibly well - and char on the grill. Cook long enough to turn them into delicious crackers, or eat them while they're fleshy and succulent. Either way, the results are amazing.

‘Artichokes are another winner. Cut them in half then grill until the skin is crisp and the edges break apart. It's a delicious way of treating them.’

Ingredients of note

The flavour that flame cooking gives vegetables is enhanced by the use of quality spices and rubs. And Nigel pays great attention to the character of the ingredients in his products.

‘We use coconut sugar because it brings such a deep molasses taste and aroma,’ he says ‘It doesn't burn or char as easily as normal sugar, resulting in less of that crumbly burnt coating.’

Chillies are given the same level of attention: ‘We use them to bring flavour and aroma, not heat, and blend ancho, mulato, pasilla and guajillo.’

Even the salt used is oak‑smoked sea salt, which adds a further layer of smokiness.

Ready to take your veggie grilling up a notch? Find recipe inspiration and Nigel's range of spices, smoking chips, shakers and seasonings at the Cut to the Smoke website.

cuttothesmoke.co.uk

Cream of the crop

There's no easier or more delectable make‑ahead pud than this no‑churn summer cup clotted‑cream ice cream from the team at Trewithen Dairy in Cornwall

We love this no‑churn ice cream, which is an easy hack if you don't have an ice‑cream maker. It's crafted from fresh strawberries and Pen Sans Summer Cup, which is a little like Pimms but made in Cornwall by the Pocketful of Stones distillery. Each batch of the spirit is made using in‑season strawberries, gooseberries, raspberries, blueberries and blackberries.

Pair those fruity flavours with golden Cornish clotted cream, made by Trewithen Dairy using milk from local Cornish herds, and you have a winning grown‑ups‑only scoop that's the perfect finale at an evening barbie.

For the clotted-cream ice cream

Free-range eggs 2 large

Caster sugar 125g

Double cream 250ml

Trewithen Dairy Cornish

clotted cream 200g

Trewithen Dairy

whole milk 250ml

Strawberries 200g, hulled

Icing sugar 1 tbsp

Pen Sans Summer Cup 50ml

To garnish

Mint leaves

Strawberries

Orange slices

1 For the clotted-cream ice cream: in a large bowl, whisk the eggs until light and fluffy. While still whisking, add the caster sugar, one spoonful at a time, and continue to mix for a few minutes. Continue to whisk while adding both creams and the milk.

2 Pour the mixture into a freezer‑proof container (a loaf or baking tin works well) and freeze for 2 hours. Remove from the freezer, whisk thoroughly and return it to the freezer.

3 In the meantime, place the strawberries and a splash of water in a small saucepan over a medium heat and cook until the strawberries break down into a sauce. Add the icing sugar and Pen Sans Summer Cup. Allow to simmer for a few minutes until the mixture reduces slightly. Set aside to cool.

4 Stir the strawberry sauce through the semi‑frozen ice cream and, using a cocktail stick, pull it gently through to create a marbled effect. Add the remaining strawberries from the sauce and return to the freezer until frozen ‑ approximately 1 hour.

5 To serve: remove the ice cream from the freezer and add fresh strawberries, mint and orange slices to garnish. Serve in cones or bowls.

trewithendairy.co.uk

TRIED AND TESTED

Purbeck Gin

Organic and carbon neutral,

The Dorset Gin Company's silky small‑batch gin is summer's smoothest way to save the planet, discovers Jo Rees

Purbeck Gin on a solar panel. Find Purbeck's classic Gimlet recipe at

What?

A creamy and floral organic London Dry crafted using the power of Dorset sunshine.

Why?

The Dorset Gin Company's owner Nigel Wallace‑Smith is keen to differentiate the way he makes gin from how the mass‑market distilleries do it. He explains: ‘We craft our gin in the traditional way by making our own alcohol which we then distil with organic botanicals such as juniper berries, coriander seed, angelica root, fenugreek and a small piece of vanilla pod. It's a much more traditional way of doing things and, I believe, why we've managed to create a gin that has no “burn”.’

Eco creds

However, it's not just flavour that's important to The Dorset Gin Company.

‘For the environment's sake, we have to change the way we do things, and that includes the gin we make and drink,’ says Nigel.

When Nigel and his wife Ann (right) set up a micro distillery on their smallholding overlooking Purbeck Ridge, they decided that minimising environmental impact would be at the core of the project. ‘We grow vegetables and keep horses and are committed to looking after the landscape, so keeping things organic, green and small scale was important to us,’ he says.

The distillery is powered by solar panels which fuel five air‑cooled stills (‘I make gin while the sun shines,’ says Nigel). The finished bottles are delivered by electric vehicle to London and throughout Dorset, making it a carbon‑neutral product.

Verdict?

The sustainable spirit is so creamy it works well as a sipping gin, although most will quaff it in a silky G&T. We liked it best with Fever Tree Mediterranean Tonic Water and a squeeze of fresh lime.

Recommend to friends?

There are definitely feelgood vibes in sharing the deets on an indie business crafting a sustainable spirit of distinction. And who wouldn't appreciate a bottle through the post?

How to get it

Purbeck is still somewhat under the radar and more of its bottles are sold direct from the distillery than through stores. A 70cl bottle costs £44 plus P&P from the website.

dorsetgincompany.co.uk

Mead gets a makeover in this sweet, tart and effervescent cocktail which captures the honeyed days of summer. Adjust the ratio

to suit your palate

Lyme Bay Winery Mead Spritzer

Makes 1

Ice cubes

Lyme Bay Traditional Mead 1 part

Sparkling water or soda water 1 part

Fresh lemon juice to taste

Lemon slices and fresh mint leaves

1 Fill a glass with ice cubes and add equal parts Lyme Bay Traditional Mead and sparkling water/soda.

2 Squeeze fresh lemon juice into the glass to the desired level of tartness and stir gently to combine.

3 Garnish with a slice of lemon and a sprig of fresh mint, then give it a final stir.

Source Lyme Bay Traditional Mead at Cellar Door in Shute near Axminster and online at lymebaywinery.co.uk

Image: Matt Austin

Pioneering spirit

Trevethan Distillery is special, but not simply because of its award‑winning Cornish spirits; owner John Hall believes he is about to disrupt the gin world, discovers Melissa Morris

In 1929, Norman Trevethan, a characterful and inventive chauffeur on the Port Eliot Estate in Cornwall, created a recipe for a bootleg ‘bathtub’ gin. Nearly a century later, the recipe was resurrected by John Hall, a friend and kindred spirit of Norman's grandson Rob Cuffe, who also happens to have all the right chemistry qualifications. However, the rest is far from history. In fact, it could be the future of distilled spirits.

What started in 2013 as bar‑room banter between mates had, by 2015, become the multi‑IWSC‑award‑winning Trevethan Distillery Original Dry Gin.

Developing Norman's recipe unleashed a passion in John (pictured) which evoked the kind of ingenuity and perfectionism that often afflicts successful entrepreneurs. And it's catapulted Trevethan Distillery from a Cornish success story to a global contender in the premium spirits market. Yet John feels he's only just getting started.

‘I've always had an interest in spirits, particularly whisky, so I jumped at the chance to develop Norman's recipe. I didn't foresee success at the time; I just enjoyed the development process,’ he says

When Trevethan Original Dry Gin started to win awards, it was a lightbulb moment for John. ‘I wondered what else I could achieve in this sector if I set my mind to it.’

In 2017, Trevethan became the first independent craft distillery to sell their product in Waitrose. It raised the profile of the brand nationally and opened the supermarket's doors to other craft producers.

Shortly afterwards, John received a request from The Lost Gardens of Heligan in Cornwall to create a gin infused with its Heligan pineapples. He took the idea and turned it upside down; he created a rum.

‘Some of the processes used in rum and whisky production are similar, such as cask maturation. And I had a hunch that the flavour of the pineapples and black bee honey from Heligan would create an exceptional rum, so, with Heligan's support, we went for it.’ Now Trevethan has three rums in its collection, and five gins. What’s more, John and his team have gained the vital dark‑spirit maturation expertise needed to expand into whisky production.

‘It could revolutionise ultra‑premium gin production’

Despite Trevethan Distillery's growing prominence ‑ it holds nine IWSC awards, including UK Gin Distillery of the Year in 2021 and a Gold Outstanding medal for its Original Dry Gin in 2022 ‑ John's sights remain on high‑end rather than high‑volume spirits. In 2023, the distillery attracted the attention of international investors with an interest in Cornish innovation. They've backed his latest (top‑secret) development, which John believes could revolutionise ultra‑premium gin production.

‘We hope our next exciting evolution will further raise the profile of Trevethan Distillery and Cornwall on the global super-premium spirits' map.’ says John. ‘It will be a gamechanger in gin, and has the potential to enable me to take the distillery to the next level.’

Find out what John and the team have been working on in the Christmas issue of Food Lifestyle trevethandistillery.com

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Pick of the pinks

Drinks pro Susy shares her pick of the pack for summer drinks

Wraxall Early Pinot Noir

Rosé 2022, Somerset (12.7%, wraxallvineyard.co.uk, £17.50/75cl)

A delicate, beautifully poised dry rosé, prettily pale, with wisps of red fruit, especially red cherries, trailing through it, and crisp, fresh but balanced acidity.

One of the South West's very best pink wines, made from early ripening pinot grapes. A delight on its own, or try it with seafood, light white‑fish dishes or grilled vegetable couscous.

Pink drinks have never been so popular, whether they're ballet‑shoe coloured wines, sunset‑hued softies, rosy ciders or deep pink‑cerise aperitivos.

Pink liquid shouts ‘summer’, as it usually means delicate, refreshing flavours and a pour that comes straight from the fridge. Here are three blushing beauties made in the South West.

Aprèz Spritz Aperitif, Knightor Winery, Cornwall (5.5%, knightor.com, £14/ 4 x 250ml cans)

A spritzy ready‑to‑drink aperitif, both a little sweet and a little bitter, ending soft and moreish.

Herbs, fruits and spices are used to infuse Knightor's rosé wine to make their award‑winning pink vermouth, and that's what forms the base of this lovely canned cocktail. Aperol‑lovers, go get.

Sandford Orchards Katja

Rosé Sparkling Cider, Devon (8%, sandfordorchards.co.uk, £62/6 x 75cl bottles)

Here's a different, pale salmon‑pink cider that's a bit like a rosé wine, having had red rondo grape skins added to it (from Devon’s Pebblebed Vineyard), then made in the same method as Prosecco.

It's fairly dry and has finely crafted notes of redcurrant, red cherry and peach, a light froth and relatively low alcohol compared to most wines. Super for a picnic.

ENGLAND: SOUTH №8

NEVER HAVE A BAD COFFEE AGAIN OUTNOW!

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Travel

The coolest, quirkiest and most fabulous South West destinations for summertime adventures

Salcombe in full sail

Exploring hidden Sherborne

Sherborne is so much more than just honey‑coloured turrets and chic boutiques. Rosanna Rothery discovers quirky depths that make for a delicious day trip or mini break

Image:

Katharine Davies

Sherborne's got the looks alright. As if auditioning to be the backdrop in the next big costume drama, its antiquated charms are flaunted in honey‑coloured turrets and towers.

Two castles (one, frankly, is never enough), a magnificent abbey and pretty almshouses give it heritage‑core vibes in spades. It's little surprise that such drop‑dead gorgeousness caught the eye of location scouts for films such as The Imitation Game and Far from the Madding Crowd

It would be easy to sum up Sherborne as frightfully genteel: the kind of historic town favoured by the smart set who want to be able to hop on a train and be in Waterloo in a couple of hours. It's got the necessary farmers' market, public schools and chic boutiques and has just been named by The Times as the best place to live in the South West.

Yet root around beneath those spires and steeples and you'll discover a bunch of creatives and entrepreneurs adding authentic quirkiness to Sherborne's quaint vibes.

HERITAGE AND HIP

Entering D'Urberville on Cheap Street is like walking into a fabulous vintage‑French Instagram feed ‑ a far cry from your average musty antique shop. Uncover a nostalgic curation of timeworn treasures and Brocante‑style furniture over two floors.

The abandoned‑château vibe (shabby chic with peeling silk wallpaper) is complemented by a menu du jour in a cafe with specials such as harissa‑roasted carrot and caramelised shallot tart, and amaretto, plum and almond croissant cake.

On Friday evenings, the drinks get cooler and the vibe hotter as the cafe turns into a cocktail bar where you can sip jungle bitters and nibble on light bites. Keep an eye on socials for desserts‑and‑drinks soirées, furniture‑upcycling workshops and abstract‑painting sessions.

OFF‑BEAT BEVERAGES

Sherborne has a plethora of unique places to sit and sip. Locals congregate at Oliver's for its patisserie and art‑deco atmosphere while fans of speciality coffee cool down with a Spanish latte (espresso and sweetened condensed milk poured over ice and milk) at Bean Shot. If they're lucky they may even get invited to star in the latter's hilarious Instagram reels. ›› Clockwise

from left: D'Urberville; food at The Clockspire; The Story Pig

Image: Doug Grigg

Image: Chris Bailey

Image: Amelia Johnson

Those desiring the type of tipple to cause a ripple at dinner parties head to the wine bar and store at Drinksmith in The Grain Loft. The owners have a penchant for leftfield regions and wine styles so there is always something interesting to try.

For more bottles and banter, Vineyards in the Old Yarn Mills is a social hub of tastings, festivals, quiz nights and foodie pop ups. It won the Drinks Retailing Awards UK's Best Indie Wine Shop 2024.

There are also hearty ales and heaps of history to be discovered in the town's pubs including Sherborne's oldest inn The George In complete contrast, the newly refurbished Grade I‑listed house The Sherborne is a fresh setting for drinks or lunch with a side of creative inspo from artisans and makers.

EPICUREAN EXCURSIONS

An evening spent at Horrell & Horrell is like rocking up at a foodie friend's house with a bottle of wine and letting them cook something from their garden especially for you. A few miles out of town in the village of Sparkford, this is a unique micro‑dining experience for up to 30 guests. While you sip an aperitif, Jules Horrell gathers fruit and veg from the kitchen garden for husband Steve to get creative with in the wood‑fired kitchen.

Dinner ‑ there are no menus ‑ is served in their old cow barn on a long sharing table decked out with dried fruits and flowers from the orchard and cutting patch. From February to December the rustic feasts take place three evenings a week alongside Sunday lunch.

If you're travelling to Sherborne via the A303, then The Story Pig, ten minutes out of town, is perfect for a picturesque pit stop.

Farmer James Hull and wife Swedish baker Charlotte have turned their off‑grid farm, specialising in Tamworth pigs and lavender, into a gourmet destination.

Relax in a charming tipi cafe and feast on free‑range pork in burgers and rolls, enjoy the kitchen‑garden produce in salads, and sample Charlotte's kanelbulle (soft buns with a cinnamon centre drizzled in icing). Don't leave without strolling around fragrant fields, meeting the piglets and buying something for supper from the farm shop. Those staying nearby can also take advantage of weekend pizza nights where fresh‑from‑the‑oven doughy delights include The Story Pig chorizo.

Teals, just off the A303, is another exciting emporium of edible experiences. Fill your shoppers from its deli, veg stall, butchery, bottleshop and lifestyle curations before feasting on the likes of flatbreads topped with fennel‑spiced sausage, caramelised onion and Ogleshield cheese.

IN‑SPIRED SUPPER

After a day of squinting up at fan‑vaulted ceilings and medieval glass, it's only natural for sightseers to seek out somewhere lavish for supper. Dining beneath a spectacular soaring ceiling and candelabras scores pretty highly on the glam‑ometer, so it's worth making the short drive to The Clockspire at Milborne Port. ››

Left: Jules and Steve of Horrell & Horrell, their setting and table decorations

It's a former school and dates back to 1864 but there's not a whiff of school dinners about the place. Stone walls, polished concrete floors and exposed oak beams create a swanky setting for head chef Luke Sutton's (previously of Michelin‑starred L'Ortolan in Berkshire) delicious tasting and á la carte menus.

Kick off with a “clocktale” (Very Cherry is a summery burst of fruit) at the marble‑topped bar on a mezzanine level and watch the theatre of dining unfold below. Descend for elegant modern dishes crafted from ingredients such as house gin cured salmon, Cornish monkfish and Creedy Carver duck.

Other decent dining options include The Green Restaurant at the top of Cheap Street for a reliably good menu, and the characterful White Post in nearby Rimpton for elevated pub food.

REGENCY‑CORE ROMANCE

If the new series of Bridgerton is making you pine for regency romance, then rest assured The Eastbury Hotel & Spa is poised to sweep you off your feet. Nestled in a row of honey‑coloured cottages, this bijou Georgian townhouse is the perfect destination for a night's repose after a day roaming around Sherborne's romantic ruins.

Be cosseted by comfortable beds, a swoon‑worthy breakfast and oodles of trad charm. The cosy Victorian Potting Shed Suites (complete with sedum roofs and private terraces) are set in magical back‑to‑Eden gardens. Don't check out before experiencing the hobbit‑hole spa.

Out of town, The Queen's Arms at Corton Denham dates back to Georgian times and has attractive rooms and an excellent food offering. Two miles away, Stoneleigh Barton offers B&B in a 19th‑century former hay barn.

Clockwise from top: Teals; The Clockspire; car at The Eastbury Hotel & Spa; bathroom at The Queen's Arms

Image: Tom Asteriades

Family hols in Cornwall

Ditch the endless Googling in search of a fabulous family holiday destination and fast‑forward to these special finds which deliver a good time for the whole clan

Beach days at Bedruthan

Bedruthan Mawgan Porth

While sister hotel Scarlet off ers grown‑ ups‑only escapes, Bedruthan Hotel & Spa (bedruthan.com) is very much a family affair.

Situated on the coast above Mawgan Porth Beach, Bedruthan delivers action‑packed days at the pools and on the shore, and evenings feasting on casual food at The Wild Cafe.

There's lots going on for youngsters during school holidays ‑ from the family sensory spa garden to a kids' club and evening entertainment such as silent discos, movie nights and storytelling sessions.

Year‑round fun comprises craft sessions, Jungle Tumble, games room, pool table and TV room, while a bookable play crèche lets parents take time off to bliss out in the contemporary spa.

Large family rooms and villas deliver sea views and spacious accommodation.

Una St Ives

For a resort‑style stay out of the bustle of St Ives, and just above Carbis Bay, Una (unastives.co.uk) off ers contemporary lodges clustered round a 15‑metre indoor infinity pool and lido.

A gym, sauna, steam room and spa treatments will delight parents, while Una Kitchen, with its Med‑inspired menu and wood‑fired pizzas, will keep everyone happy.

Subtropical plants surrounding the contemporary houses create a luscious landscape as well as privacy from other guests ‑ especially important when you're in your hot tub. ››

Image:

The Valley

Near Truro

Hidden in 13 acres of tranquil gardens and woodland, The Valley's (thevalleycornwall. co.uk) collection of self‑catering holiday cottages ‑ many with hot tubs ‑ gives families loads of comfy space and privacy. They're also a great base from which to explore the nearby beaches and have a city day in Truro.

The open‑plan cottages are full of family‑friendly features while beyond the front door are two heated swimming pools, tennis courts, squash courts, woodland walks and a new on‑site restaurant.

A free summer activity programme for the family includes archery, yoga on the lawn and animal‑encounter experiences.

Carbis Bay Hotel & Estate

St Ives

There's no need to use your car once you arrive at Carbis Bay Hotel & Estate (carbisbayhotel.co.uk) as everything required is on the doorstep: a pristine beach, kids' holiday club and food and drink options to appease even the fussiest eater.

The hotel also has the full gamut of accommodation options ‑ from self catering cottages to apartments and family suites ‑ so it's easy to find the perfect set up for your crew.

For casual dining, head to the Beach Club where crowd pleasing favourites equal empty plates. In the evenings, take advantage of the estate's babysitting services and book an adults only visit to Ugly Butterfly by Adam Handling for an exquisite tasting menu with paired wines.

Image: Kieran Brimson

St Moritz Hotel

Near Rock

A contemporary hotel with views over the north Cornwall coast, St Moritz (stmoritzhotel.co.uk) delivers spacious leisure areas, two restaurants ‑ one a cafe by the outdoor pool ‑ plus the only Cowshed Spa beyond Soho House properties.

One of the most attractive elements of St Moritz for those with kids in tow is the varied accommodation in the form of rooms, suites, apartments and an off‑site house. Each includes access to the hotel's facilities.

Younger children will enjoy the ice‑cream hut, supervised movie nights and a kids' club with activities including arts and crafts, surf club, beach cleans, drama workshops, rock pooling and outdoor sports. Older kids will appreciate the indoor and outdoor pools and the surfing and watersports at nearby Polzeath Beach (a ten‑minute walk or shuttle ride away).

WEEKENDERS

Salcombe

Yachty Salcombe is a magnet for discerning travellers who want beach chic without having to step on a plane. Abi Manning reveals her guide to a swoonworthy weekend in this seaside spot

Clockwise from below: view of South Sands beach; Harbour Beach Club restaurant

Friday

Check in at Harbour Beach Club, the latest addition to the town's raft of upscale hotels and which opened just a couple of years ago. The luxe hotel, bar and restaurant has made a name for itself for its chic interior decor, beachside setting, spa, and seafood‑centric menu.

Its spot on the shores of South Sands beach is the perfect base for a Salcombe weekender: far enough from the hubbub of town but close enough to take advantage of Salcombe's attractions (thanks to a complimentary all‑day e‑shuttle service).

Discerning visitors will opt for a Deluxe Sea View Suite which includes an open‑plan lounge, roomy bathroom and a balcony with beach views.

Ease into the weekend with Friday afternoon in the spa. Unravelling on the massage table, gliding through the 12‑metre pool and relaxing in a hot tub are the perfect post‑journey wind down before mixing a complimentary in‑room gin and tonic and sipping it on your balcony.

Visitors don't need to leave the hotel to eat well. The contemporary restaurant's fl oor‑to‑ceiling windows frame the coastal views, but on balmy evenings the best seats in the house are found on the outdoor terrace. Seafood takes a starring role on the seasonal menus ‑ choose from crowd pleasers like grilled lobster with garlic butter or creations such as panfried sea bream with Asian broth, razor clams and saffron potatoes. ››

Clockwise from top: gin making at Salcombe Distilling Co.; artwork at The Drang Gallery; Jam Industries beachwear; Salcombe Dairy ices

Saturday

Head to the beach at sunrise for one of the hotel's complimentary yoga sessions. After breakfast, switch up the pace with a jaunt around town. Hone your Salcombe style on Island Street: Will Bees Bespoke crafts handmade bags and accessories (with embossed personalisation), while Jam Industries (ex‑Made in Chelsea star Andy Jordan's lifestyle brand) deals in après‑surf‑style contemporary threads. Head to Fore Street for indie homewares and clothing shops Love From and Chattels, and contemporary art hub The Drang Gallery Then join the queue at Salcombe Dairy for an artisan ice cream.

Crab Shed is a relaxed lunch location: the vibe is informal but the quality of shellfish ‑ plucked from local waters ‑ is cracking. A five‑minute stroll away is Salcombe Distilling Co. where you can spend the afternoon learning the art of distillation and craft your own 70cl bottle of gin, flavoured with your pick of the botanicals. Follow the experience with a G&T in the distillery's bar. It has also recently launched a Rum School Experience, or visit Devon Rum Co. for a rum cocktail masterclass.

Switch up the dining options on Saturday night and head to The Jetty at Salcombe Harbour Hotel. In summer, its chefs offer a fresh seafood bar where guests can select their own crustaceans. After dinner, a nightcap on South Sands Hotel's terrace provides the perfect end to a Salcombe day.

Sunday

Take advantage of the takeaway coffee provided by the hotel on checkout, but make sure you devour a little more of what Salcombe has to offer before heading home.

Water babies have numerous opportunities for fun: hire a kayak or SUP from Sea Kayak Salcombe and paddle to the tiny village of South Pool for a pit stop at award‑winning Millbrook Inn . Other options include Whitestrand Boat Hire, Salcombe Dinghy Sailing and Salcombe Angling.

Landlubbers can take the coast road to National Trust property Overbeck's Garden at Sharpitor, where subtropical gardens perch on a clifftop and refreshments come courtesy of converted horsebox pop‑up Gastrobox

Alternatively, hop on the ferry at The Ferry Inn to East Portlemouth and access quieter beaches on the other side of the estuary. It's also the spot to drop onto a walk that curls round the headland and will, ideally, end with a cream tea at Gara Rock Hotel

Cool placesto stay

Time is precious so weekends deserve to be spent somewhere exceptional. Here's where to stay this season

The Signal Station

Cornwall

A stay at this unique beacon house on The Lizard delivers a one‑of‑a‑kind stay in the most southerly holiday rental in Cornwall.

The Signal Station (uniquehomestays.com) was built in 1872 as a safety feature for passing ships. While the building has retained some features linked to its seafaring history, it's now a luxurious haven for those wishing to explore hidden coves and countryside and laze in chic, comfortable surroundings.

Inside the roomy abode, white‑washed walls and coastal blue and nautical decor are complemented by large windows through which light pours in. The views through those windows are sublime but the best spot for sea gazing is from the sofa on the roof terrace, which also has picnic benches for an epic alfresco dining experience.

The Birdhouse

South Somerset

For a slice of luxe Scandi living in greenest, deepest Somerset, Hinton Hideaways' (hintonhideaways.co.uk)

adults‑only lodgings, treehouses and cabins are fabulous. Set in 260 acres of organic farmland, each property reflects its surrounding landscape.

Hidden House, on the fringes of a forest, perches on timber legs among the trees. The Hide, a curved timber lodge, is distinguished by its tropical outdoor bath house, while rustic‑chic The Nest features a roomy freestanding tub. The Owl Cabin has fairytale vibes thanks to its woody surrounds and outdoor fire pit. However, it's The Birdhouse (pictured) that takes the biscuit for its woodland‑bathing opportunities and infrared sauna. ››

Cowley Manor Experimental

Near Cheltenham

Cowley Manor (cowleymanorexperimental.com)

has a fascinating backstory: the first iteration of the manor house was built in 1695, the property was owned by kings of England, and it's said to have been an inspiration for Alice in Wonderland

Immediate charms of the Grade II listed property include its eye‑popping architecture, tranquil gardens and first‑class facilities. Escape down the rabbit hole, however, and you'll discover the manor's quirky‑yet‑plush interiors, a cool restaurant with menus reflecting the Gloucestershire larder, and a high‑spec spa in a lush countryside setting.

Image: Mr Tripper

The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa

Bath

This five‑star Georgian hotel may be located in the heart of Bath but its acre of gardens and position on the Royal Crescent make it a tranquil idyll in the busy UNESCO World Heritage Site city.

The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa's (royalcrescent.co.uk) landmark building has a 250‑year history, but the hotel delivers a contemporary experience. Delight in modern culinary adventures at Montagu's Mews restaurant, explore the cocktail list at the bar, chill in luxurious decor, and melt into Templespa treatments.

The Nest

North Devon

Immerse yourself in nature (and a bubbling hot tub, for as long as it takes to wrinkle) at this Hartland hideout.

Sleepy Owl's (sleepyowldevon.co.uk) small collection of treehouses (and a converted cowshed) provide space to revel in a quiet countryside setting yet delight in luxe facilities.

The Nest (pictured) is the most lavish of the lot and includes a gold roll‑top tub and cinema projector in the master bedroom, a wood‑fired pizza oven in the courtyard, a wood‑fired hot tub, hammocks and a treehouse‑within‑the‑treehouse for youngsters.

Image: Guy Harrop

Image: Pete Helme

We visit the South West's coolest places to stay and discover how to squeeze every last drop of delight from the experience. This issue, Jo Rees does 24 hours at Falmouth's lush spa resort

THE FULL WORKS

St Michaels Resort

Gosh, the gardens are gorgeous at St Michaels: a lush wonderland of palms, echiums and aeoniums next to Mediterranean grasses, silvery olive trees and the sky blue blooms of spiky agapanthus flowers.

It makes you wonder why the design team made such a feature of the gardens when the glorious white sands and glassy waters of Gyllyngvase Beach are just at the end of the drive. However, the greenery creates a setting that takes the spa experience at St Michaels into another realm.

Image: Elliott White

In fact, the distinguishing factor of St Michaels spa is its integrated inside/outside set up. Indoors, a huge hydrotherapy pool (the South West's largest), two steam rooms (Cornish sea salt and rainforest), a herbal sauna, treatment rooms, ice bucket and cold showers, plus warm lounge beds, are perfect for sloughing off tension and getting into the spa zone.

However, it's on stepping outside that the transformative pleasure of this idyll really kicks in. A large whirlpool on the deck, an icy plunge pool, and a sauna with glass wall (revealing the surrounding luscious planting) deliver a feeling of having found the key to a secret garden. And with beds and lounging spots dotted among the foliage you can savour your post spa buzz in tranquillity.

St Michaels has plenty of accommodation options ‑ from family suites to smart rooms and luxe self catered apartments ‑ but for those with whirlpools and saunas in mind, it's impossible to beat the Spa Lodges.

Hidden in the gardens and just steps from the spa, the modern lodges are luxe comfortable inside, and paired with standout alfresco features such as a private deck and garden with a copper tub for bathing under the stars, a cold shower (to rinse off sea water and sand), and heated lounging area. As Spa Lodge guests get unlimited access to the spa (slots are booked), most guests spend time mooching about in their complimentary robe and flip flops, flitting between their lodge and the facilities.

It's not all about chilling out at this coastal resort, of course. Just across the car park sits its health club with a lane swimming pool, a studio and a huge gym that's all pumping beats and energised vibes. Or head to the beach for paddleboarding and the bracing pleasures of sea swimming ‑ as well as ice creams and lunch on the sand. ››

Clockwise from top left: Spa Lodge bedroom; Spa Lodge outdoor tub; Gyllyngvase Beach; alfresco whirlpool; hydrotherapy pool

Image: Amber Gudger

At this resort, pleasures of the culinary variety are taken as seriously as corporeal concerns. A food philosophy that champions local, fresh and seasonal produce from nearby farms and surrounding waters is delivered in two dining experiences. The roomy and nautical Brasserie on the Bay offers laid‑back charm and sea views, turning smarter under the twinkle of evening lighting. Next to it, all‑day‑dining experience Nourish (right) delivers health focused casual dishes such as flatbreads with lemon roast chicken, miso mayonnaise, rocket, parmesan, chilli, avocado and tahini dressing, plus coffees and smoothies.

The resort has just welcomed a new head chef in the form of Darren Kerley, and expectations for his tenure are high. The Cornish chef has recently completed an award‑winning two‑year stint at

Need to know

Must pack Bathers

If you do one thing Stay in a Spa Lodge

Insider tip Nab the appleshaped wicker lounge bed and snooze in the sun

Image: Elliott White

Hotel Meudon, while previous roles saw him at The Dorchester as a junior sous, working under Marco Pierre‑White at Le Manoir Aux Quat'Saisons, and with pioneering chef Alain Senderens at Lucas Carton in Paris.

Darren's food ethos centres on letting quality ingredients shine via a light culinary touch, and he plans to deliver a comprehensive plant‑ inspired menu of small plates and Ottolenghi‑style dishes.

That both indulgence and wellness are on the menu is in no doubt, and boosted further by the pleasures of a large bar, which is the perfect place to kick off dinner. Start with a pick from the signature cocktail list. When we visited, the Banana Stout was in full effect ‑ a caramel‑hued creation, served in a rocks glass, and crafted from discarded‑banana‑peel rum, Rosemullion coffee liqueur, dark cacao, stout and banana foam. That's the kind of feelgood we can definitely get on board with.

St Michael's Resort

Gyllyngvase Beach, Stracey Rd, Falmouth, TR11 4NB stmichaelsresort.com

growingthepassion

Competitions

Win a stay with hot tub experience plus Champagne tea at Scarlet Hotel

Scarlet Hotel is the ultimate coastal sanctuary at which to bask in a dose of healthy hedonism.

The adults‑only eco hotel in Mawgan Porth, Cornwall, proved groundbreaking when it opened in 2009, balancing sky‑high sustainability goals with boutique indulgence. It continues to lead the way in elevated yet low‑impact feasting and rejuvenation: expect green roofs and reclaimed materials instead of swimming‑pool chemicals and air con.

The restaurant's ethos aligns with the hotel's environmental credentials and focuses on all things seasonal, foraged and local. This even extends to the playful take on afternoon‑tea classics in the form of lemon posset with plum, elderflower and hazelnut.

Sustainable serenity awaits at Scarlet's spa which sits overlooking the rugged coastline. Blissing out is guaranteed after a dip in the bromine‑filtered indoor pool or outdoor natural reed pool before a sizzle in the cedar‑wood barrel sauna.

Our winner and their lucky plus one will get to bask in this eco idyll via an overnight stay with breakfast, complete with a private clifftop hot‑tub session and Champagne afternoon tea – as well as access to the hotel's pools, steam room and sauna.

PRIZE A one‑night bed and breakfast stay in a Just Right Sea View room, with a 30‑minute clifftop hot‑tub session for two, and Champagne afternoon tea, worth £550.

QUESTION In which year did Scarlet Hotel open? scarlethotel.co.uk

To enter, visit food‑mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is August 15, 2024.

Win a stay and tea at Penventon Park Hotel

If Cornwall is calling but you don't fancy jostling with the summer crowds, delay gratification until autumn when the sea is at its warmest and the towns are quiet. One glamorous place to base yourself for autumnal adventures is four‑star Penventon Park Hotel in Redruth.

The Georgian‑style hotel has been owned and run by the Pascoe family since 1969. They've perfected laid back luxury infused with their own inviting originality and sumptuous styling. The hotel's 63 bedrooms each tell a story through their decor: classic double rooms are inspired by travel, while superior rooms evoke the great gardens of Cornwall.

The invitation to relax and unwind extends beyond the bedrooms to the hotel's leisure club, where a gym, spa treatment rooms, swimming pool, jacuzzi and sauna await.

Active relaxation is one way to nurture the body; good food is another. Vibrant breakfast, lunch and dinner menus are crafted from local produce, while the hotel's Copper Bar is stocked with 140 gins and 170 wines. Afternoon tea at the hotel is another treat and served as finger sandwiches, patisserie, fresh scones with homemade jam and Cornish clotted cream and fine loose‑leaf teas.

PRIZE A one‑night stay at Penventon Park Hotel to be taken between September and November 2024. Guests will be treated to a classic double room and breakfast, afternoon tea for two and access to the leisure club. Worth £269.

QUESTION: Which family has owned Penventon Park Hotel since 1969?

penventon.co.uk

To enter, visit food‑mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is August 15, 2024.

Win a Morsø Grill Forno from Rangemoors

Summertime entertaining needn't be limited by your outside space or alfresco cooking restricted to barbecuing when there's a Morsø Grill Forno in residence.

You can grill, fry, roast, bake and smoke all manner of morsels – from plump prawns to perfect pizza –and throw cosy soirées under the stars. The striking Danish engineered wood fired cast iron oven sits securely astride a tripod of teak legs and can be enjoyed all year round.

Elevate your grill game to gourmet status with additions from a range of cookware and accessories, including a steel door to maintain a consistent temperature, a flue extension, and a flue lid to retain smoke.

For a seamless transition from supper to soirée, top up the wood or pellets and gather to watch the flames dance as you digest dinner.

The Morsø Grill Forno, cookware, utensils and accessories are available from Rangemoors, which has showrooms in Exeter, Winkleigh, and now at West Country Stoves near Kingsbridge in Devon. There's also an online shop.

PRIZE A Morsø Grill Forno cast iron outdoor oven, with a UV protected, washable, watertight polyester cover to shield it from the elements. Worth £754.

QUESTION: Where will you find Rangemoors stores in Devon?

rangemoors.co.uk

To enter, visit food‑mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is August 15, 2024.

Acity dining destination with barrels of bonhomie and country‑pub vibes is something every foodie needs to have in their little black book. The Rising Sun in Truro is a fabulous find for those who want to take in the city's sights and shops before retiring to a vibrant local for excellent dining.

An evening of feasting begins with a cocktail such as a Smoked Negroni at the bar (or a delicious non‑alc alternative) and an opportunity to soak up the vibes of this popular hub.

The luxurious four‑course à la carte dinner to follow is crafted by chef‑patron Tom Hannon and served in the pub's restaurant. Cornish produce – including Porthilly oysters, locally reared duck and 28‑day‑aged ribeye steak –are fashioned into sumptuous classics, while puddings such as salted‑caramel apple tarte tatin are the epitome of indulgence.

Co‑owner Katie Hannon ensures everything runs smoothly behind the scenes, while the front‑of‑house team are on hand to recommend the perfect tipple to accompany your pick of the menu. Whiskey lovers, meanwhile, may want to finish with the Taoscán Experience: the world's first tawny port and chestnut single‑malt served with Tom’s bitter orange chocolate petits fours.

A fun finale to an evening at The Rising Sun involves a short after‑dinner stoll down the hill to sister Irish bar, Fitzpatrick's, where the team famously mix a zippy sundowner or two.

QUESTION What is the name of The Rising Sun's sister Irish bar? therisingsuntruro.co.uk

PRIZE A dining experience for two to include welcome drink, a four‑course à la carte dinner with wine, a Taoscán Experience and a late‑night drink at Fitzpatrick's. Worth £290.

Image: Guy Harrop

Win dinner, bed and breakfast at The King's Head in Wiltshire

For a cosy overnight stay in an ancient country pub on the fringes of the New Forest National Park, you'd be hard pressed to find a nicer spot than The King's Head in Whiteparish.

It's just been taken over by Patrick and Nicky Chambers who are looking to elevate the already charming inn to new heights.

They're not throwing the baby out with the bathwater, however, and have retained the pub's new chefs who are doing great work cooking up a menu of winning pub classics such as steak frites and hearty pies. They also craft refined restaurant style dishes, with everything made from high quality local produce.

Eight ensuite bedrooms in a revamped traditional barn building next to the pub are surrounded by private gardens and provide smart comfort after a day exploring the countryside.

The area offers a huge variety of things to do and is perfect for a rural weekend away. Golf, fishing, and cycling and walking trails in the forest, are in abundance, while the small city of Salisbury with its stunning cathedral is just seven miles away.

To give readers the chance to experience this new incarnation of The King's Head, we've a special prize to be won.

PRIZE A three course dinner for two plus bed and breakfast in a comfortable double room, worth £245.

QUESTION Which national park is near The King's Head?

thekingshead.co.uk

To enter, visit food‑mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is August 15, 2024.

Food Lifestyledirectory

The Cellarhand

Independent wine shop and wholesaler in Bruton, Somerset, stocking a carefully sourced selection of wines from around the world. Let the knowledgeable team guide you to wines that suit your tastes. Mixed case discounts in store and free next day delivery when you spend £125 online. thecellarhand.co.uk

Luscombe Drinks

Royal warrant holder Luscombe Drinks creates organic soft drinks from soft Devon water and hand selected ingredients from trusted growers around the globe. Every step – sourcing, harvesting, juicing, blending and bottling –is done with care, which shows in multi award winning results. luscombe.co.uk

Drinks Kitchen

These award winning aperitifs are a fabulous non alcoholic alternative to a glass of fizz or a G&T. Crafted in Somerset from botanical distillates and extracts, they deliver complex and innovative flavour notes. Curations include Spiced Rhubarb, Orange Cinchona, Herb Verde and Grapefruit Piquante.

The aperitif is concentrated and perfect mixed with tonic, sparkling water or even used as a mocktail ingredient. Ditch the FOMO; Drinks Kitchen has summer sips sorted – without the alcohol. drinkskitchen.online

Powderkeg Brewery

Devon’s original craft brewery creates beers that are outstandingly fresh and interesting. Flavour packed easy drinking session beers, like flagship pale Speak Easy, share cellar space with award winning lagers Harmony and Cut Loose, as well as game changing low alcohol IPA Green Light.

powderkegbeer.co.uk

The Queen's Arms

At this lovely dining pub on the Dorset/Somerset border, the focus is on exceptional food – from pub classics to elevated dishes – made from locally sourced ingredients. This is bolstered by a wide selection of drinks and ten luxurious guestrooms. Dogs and muddy boots encouraged! thequeensarms.com

Image: Matt Austin

Salutation Inn

A smart restaurant with rooms in the centre of Topsham, run by the Williams‑Hawkes family and team. Serving light lunches, afternoon tea, tasting menus and seasonal event menus crafted from local ingredients of provenance.

salutationtopsham.co.uk

Flory Restaurant

An elegant and welcoming restaurant in Bodmin set across three floors, serving European inspired dishes which utilise quality Cornish ingredients. Open for brunch, lunch, dinner and Sunday lunches. Parking in Priory Car Park.

floryrestaurant.co.uk

Knightor Winery

A working winery set in four lush acres of vines above St Austell Bay. Delve into a world of premium wines, spritzes and cocktails. Wine shop open Wednesdays to Sundays for wine tastings. Guided winery tours available on Sundays.

knightor.com

Marshford Organic Foods

Visit Marshford's farm shop in Northam, north Devon, for a fabulous array of fresh organic veggies, salads and herbs (many of which are homegrown).

Local fish, meat, eggs, bread, dairy products (including a selection of interesting cheeses) and a wide variety of groceries (all environmentally friendly and organic) are also available from the store, while veg boxes and produce can be delivered.

Visit the shop or order online for collection and local deliveries. marshford.co.uk

The Fish Shed St Ives

Black Bee Honey

Black Bee Honey is a beekeeper collective producing delicious local honeys you can trust. The beekeeper and hive location are stamped on every jar, and 2 per cent of the company's turnover is used to create bee friendly wildflower meadows. blackbeehoney.com

Fresh, local and sustainable seafood on the beach in St Ives, Cornwall. The Fish Shed St Ives offers contemporary, bold and inventive food flavours with a unique cocktail menu and wine list to match. thefishshedstives.co.uk Want to be included

Email claire@saltmedia.co.uk

Stockists

These are just a few of the exceptional places you can pick up a copy of Food Lifestyle. Find the full list at food‑mag.co.uk

Bath

Always Sunday Town + House

Beckford Bottle Shop

Chandos Deli

Colonna & Small's

Cortado Café

No.15 by GuestHouse Hotels

Picnic Coffee

Robun

The Fine Cheese Co.

The Thoughtful Bakery

Cornwall

Appleton's Bar & Restaurant

Da Bara Bakery St Mawes

Electric Bakery

Fee's Food

Fistral Beach Hotel and Spa

Great Cornish Food Store

Hooked on the Rocks

Jo & Co Home

Kota

Mr Scorse Gourmet

Deli and Wines

Padstow Farm Shop

Porthminster Beach Café

Scarlet Hotel

St Kew Farmshop & Café

St Michaels Resort

St Moritz Hotel

Strong Aldofo's

The Alverton Hotel

The Godolphin

The Greenbank Hotel

The Headland

Hotel, Cottages & Spa

The Idle Rocks Hotel

The Rising Sun, Truro

The Square at Porthleven

Tinkture

Trevisker's Kitchen

Trudgian Farm Shop

Devon

Ashburton Cookery School

Ashburton Deli

Ben's Farm Shop

Boringdon Hall Hotel

Bovey Castle

Darts Farm

Gidleigh Park

Glebe House

Harbour Beach Club

Johns of Appledore

Lympstone Manor

Marshford Organic Foods

Rangemoors

River Cottage

Riverford Field Kitchen

The Bull Inn

The Cheese Larder

The Horse

The Lilac Bakery

The Lost Kitchen

Waitrose Okehampton

West Country Stoves

Dorset

Acorn Inn

Crab House Cafe

Langham Wine Estate

Lilac Restaurant & Wine Bar

Majestic Wine, Dorchester

RISE Market & Bakery

Seaside Boarding House

Soulshine

Summer Lodge Hotel

SWIM

The Club House

The Oyster and Fish House

The Three Horseshoes

The Queens Arms

Tom's Lyme Regis

Town Mill Bakery

Waitrose Bridport

Gloucestershire

Arc Espresso Bar + Deli

Daylesford Organic Farm

Ritual Coffee

Roasters Bar & Kitchen

Scandinavian Coffee Pod

Tewkesbury Park

The Cheeseworks

The Slaughter's Country Inn

Vinotopia

Somerset

Brown & Forrest

Chandos Deli

Dunster Living

FARA

Farrington's Farm

Flourish Food Hall

Holm

Little Walcot

Lord Poulett Arms

MAKE

Number One Bruton

Teals

The Barrington Boar

The Bath Priory

The Cellarhand

The Cotley Inn

The Holcombe

The Talbot Inn

White Row Farm Shop

Wiltshire

Little Rituals

Lucknam Park Hotel & Spa

Majestic Wine, Devizes

Majestic Wine, Marlborough

The Bath Arms

The Beckford Arms

The Bradley Hare